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Thread: Another end-grain hollowing question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Elmodel, Ga.
    Posts
    728

    Another end-grain hollowing question

    Started hollowing out an elm log to make a vase. This piece of wood is sopping wet. Using carbide tools, the inter-twined grain is giving me fits. Instead of a nice cut, I'm doing more tearing. I seem to be having trouble, especially around the curves. I'm using a hollowing system that has always done a fair job for me on dry, or even moderately wet wood, but this is different in that the grain is so twisted and wet. What can I do to help with this, or is there a better way or a different type of cutter I should use? What about something like a Oneway termite or Crown beaver? Would those type of cutters be a better option?
    My Dad always told me "Can't Never Could".

    SWE

  2. #2
    I don't do much wet wood but when I do any end grain hollowing I use the Oneway Termite tool and it works well....
    Last edited by Barry McFadden; 01-07-2022 at 5:26 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Northern MN
    Posts
    334
    I don't do much end grain hollowing, but some woods buck the idea that wet wood cuts easier. I made several bowls from a butternut log a few years ago and roughing the bowls wet was not pleasant, lots of tearing and fuzz even with sharp tools. But once it was dry, it cut like "butter" (see what I did there?).

    Best,

    Dave

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    2,893
    End grain hollowing cuts are best made from the center out. Fast forward to 12:30 for end grain hollowing. https://youtu.be/4rDgDFLWG18 A ring tool in wet elm will clog really quickly. A hook tool is far better.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Schenectady, NY
    Posts
    1,502
    Using carbide tools may be part of the problem here. The cutters (scrapers) may be taking too big of a bite to be efficient. Many hollowing tools use a much smaller cutting tip like the Ellsworth style tools that use a 3/16" HSS tool bit. These take a much smaller bite and when sharp they cut quite cleanly. Might take a little longer to hollow but probably more controllable. Many of the modern tools for sale currently, such as John Jordan's and Trent Bosch's, use a similar cutter-for a reason. These tools held in a torque arresting system are quite efficient. Also as Richard says above, grain direction is important on the inside of a vessel just as it is outside. Elm should be no more challenging than any other wood with this type of cutter.
    Happy and Safe Turning, Don


    Woodturners make the world go ROUND!

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