Looking for best practice for edge jointing shop sawn veneer. Sawn to 3/32 or slightly thinner, going to drum sand to 1/16 for glue up. Birdseye and curly maple at the moment. Pieces are 45-48 inches long.
[OP]
Contributor
Looking for best practice for edge jointing shop sawn veneer. Sawn to 3/32 or slightly thinner, going to drum sand to 1/16 for glue up. Birdseye and curly maple at the moment. Pieces are 45-48 inches long.
Member
I use a piece of jointed lumber with 220 sand paper adhered. Use it like a shooting plane, sandwich the veneer b/t 2 pieces of wood to prevent flexing, works for me…..
Bingo. They even make commercial 'shooting sanders'.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
#7 or #8 Jointer plane would be my first choice and using the jointer my second. Just run them both at the same time with either option and you should be good. Good luck
Contributor
Shop sawn veneer behaves like thicker stock for the most part so I use my jointer unless it's something like Birdeye maple where I get tear out. With that stuff I use a shooting sanding board or clamp the veneer between two straight edges and run a climb cut with a pattern routing bit.
John
Contributor
at that thickness, i would run them through the jointer... or even a track saw with a good blade.
Contributor
Not singling you out Brian; I read this comment often but it's incorrect. If you edge joint two pieces at the same time any defect will be doubled when you fold them open and place the edges together.Originally Posted by Brian Burns VT
John
Member
Sorry John TenEyck, totally agree with you on a machine jointer. I was sloppy in my description. I'd do them one at a time on a machine but clamp together and do both at once with a handplane (oriented properly so the two fold out into a panel) so I don't have to sweat my plane's blade being perfectly centered and I have more meat to ride the plane on. Do you handplane joints one at a time? I only ever do if I have too much thickness for the width of my blade
Contributor
What, match planing? Works, even on a machine. It's just harder to do properly when you can't see what you're doing. It's a whole lot easier than trying to perfectly edge joint by hand.
~mike
happy in my mud hut
Contributor
I gang them up on the jointer, then very very lightly spring joint them.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
I've never tried spring joints on a jointer. Maybe I'll try that today, it'll likely be the first time I've moved my height adjustment in years. Thanks!
~mike
happy in my mud hut
Contributor
Sorry I meant to add that I do the spring joint by hand.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Contributor
why would one spring joint 3/32" stock? My jointer is dialed in, no need to ever spring joint a board, certainly not veneer. How would you put enough clamp pressure on to close a spring joint?
Contributor
OK, that makes a lot more sense.
~mike
happy in my mud hut
I have been using a method I found online.. I use a sort of straight edge / shooting block set up and put two sheets together at time, set my hand plane blade at an angle and joint two pieces at a time along the edge they share.
This should help by creating some overlap btwn the two pieces when you go to tape them together. OTH, I haven't spent too much time joining two sheets without a slight bevel because I have had good results doing it this way and it doesn't take any longer if I only do two sheets at a time. If I didn't want the bevel, I would do it the same way, but without the hand plane blade angled. Without the bevel, you could add more than two sheets to the stack. I'm sure I'll get around to trying it this way once I get involved in larger veneer projects.
That's pretty thick veneer, I can't wait to get a bandsaw and feeder capable of nice shop sawn.
Cheers,
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