You can't run through if you do not use it
Tom
Ammonia is a weak base, so that only a small proportion of the ammonia is in the form of ammonium. Kb=1.77x10-5 It's all about the equilibrium.
Based on the MSDS's value for the pH of Windex of 10.7 that would mean the hydroxide [OH-] concentration would be about 0.0005 M meaning the ratio of NH4+ to NH3 concentration in solution would be about 0.035 to 1. (ignoring any other equilibria that may be going on at the same time)
Iron can corrode in basic environments. It will create an Iron Hydroxide which can convert to Iron oxide. I'll have to dig around for some of the corrosion and electrochemistry texts when I get back to the office.
I am not completely up on corrosion chemistry, but this should be reasonably close on what can go on. (I'm a Physical Chemist (laser spectroscopist by training), not an electrochemist).
Then again chemistry is an experimental science...best would be to do a head to head comparison.
John
p.s. Probably the kinetics for most of these corrosion reactions is slow enough, that as long as you wipe off and dry the tool you are sharpening it probably doesn't matter what you use as a lubricant.
I learned glass cleaner (ammonia) use from an old now gone machinist friend. When he made parts for me his final clean was with glass cleaner (ammonia.) His comment to me was if you are going to paint don’t touch it, take it home and paint it today. If you are not painting take it home and oil it because “the air will rust it.” I just do it and it has worked for me for many years. I think they use ammonia based cleaners in those heavy duty parts cleaning cabinets for steel. Don’t know anything more about the chemistry. Glass cleaner has worked for me for cleaning steel for a long time.
Jim
I did a bit of math and the Trend honing fluid came down to $411 per gallon at today's prices on Amazon. This has been beaten down to death on many threads here and in other fora. The SDS of that product lists its main ingredient as mineral oil. Food grade mineral oils is about $15 a gallon. Granted, they may be using some super duper refined mineral oil or some magical ingredient that makes all the difference when honing, but I doubt it. I've been using run of the mill food grade mineral oil for several years on diamond stones and oilstones. I don't have to worry about it corrosion after honing. I expect my gallon to last about 4 years, I'm not skimpy with it, YMMV.
Lighter fluid. The can it comes in can't be beat.
For lapping fluid on Arkansas stones mineral oil has been my first choice. It can be purchased in most drug stores or in the pharmacy section of grocery stores. It is often labeled as a laxative - household lubricant.
Recently A bottle of baby oil was purchased. This is a lower viscosity than the food grade mineral oil. It has very little other adulterants. It is "gentle on baby's skin" so it is probably okay on us grownups' skin.
Baby Oil.png (Fred Meyer ad, a Kroger affiliate)
At less than $17 a gallon that isn't to bad for something that isn't highly flammable and might actually feel good on rough hands.This product with aloe vera & vitamin E is a lightly scented & gentle baby oil that helps moisturize & soften baby's skin. This product is dermatologist and allergy tested.
Just ask any squeaky baby about rust prevention.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I use a grinder coolant I got from the tool room at work. It has a water soluble corrosion inhibitor like HoneRite. It’s blue like Windex. A quart should last me forever.
Sharp solves all manner of problems.
I did that, and then found that I have an allergy to something in windex and similar window cleaners.
I have a reaction consistently, every single time I touch the stuff now.
I'm not allergic to things in general, but I'm guessing whatever harsh chemicals are in there triggered some reaction...
Last edited by Luke Dupont; 01-01-2022 at 8:32 PM.