Hi, in Canada, King Canada dealers carry the Excelsior blade guard……Rod
Hi, in Canada, King Canada dealers carry the Excelsior blade guard……Rod
I can live with a reduced rip capacity, as I have had 32" for many years without aggrivation, but I would like the scoring option and micro adj.
I have my Hammer 79x48 order nearly complete. I am just working through additional accessories and options with my sales rep.
I was going to order the floating blade guard/dust collection upgrade, but my rep told me it's only avalable with Felder machines. That's a bit odd.
I’m going through the same thought process. Currently live in a condo and use our roof deck as a work space. I have a portable MFT, a couple of track saws (Festool and Maffel), hand planes, routers, etc. I use TSO parallel guides to make repeat cuts. I mainly work in 6/4 and 8/4 hardwoods.
We are now building a home that will have about a 525 sq ft workshop. I was ready to pull the trigger on a Saw Stop, but then ran across the Hammer K3 Winner. I’m leaning towards a 48x48, mainly due to space considerations and the fact that I have two track saws I can use to edge joint and break down sheet goods. A concern I have is the ability to do repeat rip cuts on the Hammer using the rip fence. How solid and accurate is the fence? Is the slider even with the table? I’ve read some posts where people say that they use the slider for repeat rip cuts. But how do you ensure consistent and repeatable cuts when you need to use the fence as a guide rather than as a stop for the slider? I don’t want to have to fiddle with the saw to do this or to create jigs, otherwise I might as well just use a track saw. I want to be able to set the width using the rip fence and cut, knowing that the cuts are accurate.
You use the rip fence as a rip fence.
If you buy a slider you’ll actually have a proper fence, it can be low or high, short or long.
For ripping solid wood you use it in the Sharon position where it stops just past the front of the blade, no more trapped reaction wood.
Get the slider, you’ll love it…..Regards, Rod
Thanks Rod. Did you lower the slider to be even with the table?
You want the slider above the cast usually by 5-8 thou otherwise your wood will drag on the cast, but its a personal preference, i like mine 8-10thou. Yes you can use the rip like a regular saw if you want I do on occasion but you will want to use the slide Side as much as possible. I cut everything from full sheet of ply (duh) to straight line ripping solids to cutting itty bitty tiny pieces with the use of F&F.
You won’t really need many jigs but some are helpful, F&F for sure, it can be as simple or as complicated as you like, i have a few that are clamped to the slide side and straddle the cast iron side for cutting bridal joints and one for dovetails, easy and quick to make. As far as the settings, I don’t know about the hammer line, I have a k940 which is a whole nother’ thing but the settings have never moved on me and I have slammed (by accident) full sheets of ply and 8’ long x 6-8” w of white oak multiple times against the xcut and rip multiple times with no change.
If you have never owned a slider before it is a different work flow with different methods but you will get the hang of it and wondered how you got by without it. I rarely use my festool track saw or miter box any more. Track saw is still nice to have, sometimes it’s just quicker and easier to bring the cut to the wood, the mitre box mostly just cuts up scraps for the kindling bin…
No I didn’t, no reason to do that and it causes issues with sheet goods.
Right now I have a stack of ash that’s being ripped into flooring using the power feeder (I have a B3)…..Rod
I think my order is finally complete. It took several back and forth emails with Liz Rogers (Felder/Hammer rep) to get it sorted out. She has been great help, and very patient. I also got a lot of help from Jacques Gagnon (via PM) with some of the Hammer/Felder specific options/accessories. The last item is actually an extra stop for a miter bar. I’ll most likely order a couple 12” blades, and have a couple of my 10” blades bored to fit the machine. I have a few months to get that done.
Thanks again for everyone’s help working through this process.
- 1 ST I Hammer K3W 79x48
- 1 ST 400-108 Eccentric Clamp With Clamping Shaft M 20
- 1 ST 410-190 Adapter Felder Eccentric Clamp
- 1 ST 500-109 Edging shoe
- 1 ST 500-110 Edging bar
- 1 ST 12.1.311 Alu - System - Handwheel
- 1 ST 503-101 Dial for saw blade angle in handwheel
- 1 ST DADO.6" 6" Dado King with 30mm bore and pin holes for all FELDER Serie 500/700/900 machines 0 - 109FB
- 1 ST 503-107 Zero clearance table insert for sliding table saw
- 1 ST 02.2.021 Quick Connection Reducer
- 1 ST 503-137 Extension for aluminum formatting sliding table with ball bearings
- 1 ST 503168-100 VM Anschlagklappe für Hammer 90° Anschlag 20
Last edited by Michael Drew; 01-14-2022 at 4:12 PM. Reason: formatting
Looks like you're going to have a mighty fine machine there! Congrats!
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Always happy to help spend other folks' money...
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Chris,
503-168 is the mounting bracket for the front cross-cut fence
D1CC722B-0AFB-48F8-857E-A53C69C61D87.jpg
(along with the 90 degree stop);
503-137 is the small support table (prism shape)