Member
...also a good dust collector is important. I have a Clearvue DC and I have one 4" port on the back of the tablesaw and a second 4" port on the floating overarm dust hood - this combination really helps a lot with the dust. A world of difference compared to when I started...all I had was a Rigid Shop vac.
Member
1. I downsized to a 36" extension fence from 52" and so far have never missed it.
2. I built a storage cabinet to sit under it, so I didn't use the legs.
3. You may have to go through your blades, if you want to follow what SS says about depth limiting shoulders. Also, I have several blades which I can't adjust the brake within tolerance, possibly b/c they've been sharpened multiple times? I'm using them anyway, my thinking is its a few milliseconds delay.
Same with dado. DLS's and solid body wings are not recommended by SS.
On an interesting side note, I communicated with Infinity tools about my Dadonator, which violates both of SS's parameters on dado sets. I suggested they might put a note in the item description "not compatible with SawStop", but the answer I got back was "we have been using the Dadonator in our SawStop for years with no issues".
I asked if they ever had a brake trip but never got a reply.
Member
"Unless you don’t have the ability to run at 220, for $500 more I would go with more HP"
Could not agree more!
Contributor
Sawstop won't turn on if the break is too far from the blade, it should give you a 'no blade' error. One of my Forrest blades is pretty much in that state. The teeth are almost gone, but Forrest sent it back to me again, so it still able to get a like-new sharpening on it. However, the blade is pretty old, 13-15 years and well used up. I will replace it with a new blade when it's not cutting well anymore.Originally Posted by Robert Engel
Distraction could lead to dismemberment!
[OP]
Member
Thanks for all the comments and insightful information. Just how picky are these saw with blades? I cycle 3-4 blades and all have been sharpened at least once but not more than twice....I don't believe anyway.
Thanks,
Fred
Seasoned professional possessing unremarkable proficiency at innumerable skills.
Member
I wouldn’t let that affect the decision, other than depth limiting shoulders and full blade dados.
I think Justin answered my question, but I will verify with SS. There is a limit to the brake adjustment & if the blade is too far away from brake it will not detect, and therefore not run. OTOH, if tripped, would it slow down the reaction time enough to make a difference? That’s my question.
Short answer is you may have to quit using some blades, but b/c they’ve been sharpened so much to be avoided - that’s both if our’s question.
Contributor
I, too, suggest going to the expense of pulling the wire to the shop for the 220 saw. Prior to adding the SS RT to the right side I had the 52” set-up. As noted raising the saw would elevate the legs usually enough to drive the saw around…unless you store mass quantities on the extension table. Then I would move it by lifting and driving by lifting the ext table. With the RT I didn’t put the toothpick legs back on and do not need them. As long as we are blowing your budget out the window I will add that the RT is a pretty slick set-up. I think it was $500. I built my own router box and lift. I was able to rid myself of my old Norm router table, loose not capability and saved a lot of space.
Contributor
I have a 3hp ICS and love it but based on past debates on this subject I feel like someone should pipe up about a European style slider. I know nothing about them and haven’t tried because I have what I have. Past discussions have always included some testimonials about the sliders.
Member
I had a Felder before. The sliding table was great. If I could put one on my SawStop, I would.
However, the SawStop sliding table is another $1,200 & it doesn't function like my Felder did. There is 10" to 12" of non-sliding table between the blade & the table. With the Felder, the blade runs next to the table. But, you're talking $5k+ for one.
Felder and I think Altendorf have table saws with similar blade stopping tech, which does not infringe on SawStop's patents; however, both saws start at around $20k. If you're rich, be my guest.
I moved and sold my Felder blade machine. It was nice, but my SS works great and I won't spend the $$$ again on that kind of saw (however, I do have a Hammer 16" J/P with spiral cutter head!).
[OP]
Member
I can say categorically that $20k is well above my budget lol. Actually $3k is a lot as I'm maybe an intermediate woodworker. Plan is to grow into the cabinet saw lol.
Thanks,
Fred
Seasoned professional possessing unremarkable proficiency at innumerable skills.
Member
Fred, don't second guess yourself. The SawStop is GREAT saw! I was using it for hours today. Like a lot of people have said (that have years of experience), the 3hp with the 36" fence is the sweet spot. Yea, if I had the money, I'd go for the 5hp Industrial. But, for the average long term user, 3hp & a track saw is perfect.
I'm retired & have been woodworking for 26 years. I don't see myself "upgrading" again.
[OP]
Member
Been woodworking about as long, but as hobbyist with children, not consistently at all.....I'll be able to spend a lot more time learning in retirement. Like you, I don't see myself upgrading again, thus my plan to grow into the saw....I just want to make the correct purchase.
Thanks,
Fred
Seasoned professional possessing unremarkable proficiency at innumerable skills.
Contributor
Unless you are absolutely insistant on the blade stop tech, I'd be looking at the Harvey saws. A lot less money, but simularly good build quality (and perhaps better). Yah I know, dead horse argument about accidents, but when I think about all the other tools and machines I have, and none have blade or bit or cutterhead stopping tech - I think I'd rather focus on what I'm doing than rely on tech.
Member
That's a good point, Michael. that should be paramount in any shop. I was watching the "experts" on Popular Woodworking (YT) showing how to use a miter saw. They were using it like a "chop" saw! That's one of my pet peeves. You're supposed to wait until the blade stops before you lift the blade. If you lift the blade, the spinning teeth can catch an edge and throw the piece. I got stitches once as a result. I then wrote an article & got published in Wood Magazine.
However, that still doesn't prevent accidents. I've found that as I get older, they are more likely. Would you say, 'give me a car without antilock brakes!' It's not worth the extra $500 for the technology. I have two friends that have cut off parts of their fingers on a table saw. Both would have spent the extra $1000 or even $3000 to have their fingers all in one piece!
Member
I've been ww'ing for almost 40 years. In that time I've own 4 table saws, had several close calls and 3 injuries (no digits lost).
The deciding factor for me was a close call doing some repetitive cuts, and the fact that, at 65, I know my mental sharpeness is not going to get sharper.
So, I guess you could say I bought the saw to protect me from myself. I know it mean a lot to my wife, she admitted she does worry about me getting injured.
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