Some Sawstop Questions

[Anuj Prateek]

To the SS owners, any gotchas and/or thoughts? Any accessories you wish you have added from jump? Other thoughts?

I bought PCS 3HP 36" 220v few months back. Some thoughts:

- If you have 220 buy 3HP. I am still using the combination blade that came with saw. I ripped few 8/4 maples boards this week. Worked wonderfully.

- Buy ICS base instead of PCS base. Inhad to move the saw bunch of time to configure the shop. ICS base makes it a breeze.

- I did not buy the overarm dust collection accessory. If I had extra cash I would have bought one. I have hose hanging from roof instead.

- I am yet to rip anything beyond 2'. If you don't cut sheet good, maybe a 30" model will do. There is some difference in the fence (on 30" model) so check that though.

- the wooden part of the table (somehow I can't remember it's name right now), in black color, on right hand side is flimsy at best. On my saw it's far away from flat. I will replace it some day.

- if you don't already have it, get incra miter gauge. One that came with saw is good but not as good.

- one accessory that I will buy in next few months - either a digital gauge or woodpecker rip flip fence system.

[George Yetka]

I have 3HP 52"pcs, came with small overarm collector and mobile base free when I got it. I am 5 years in and not trips(knocks on wood)
I upgraded the overarm, I felt it could be better. The problem I have is I dont do as much sheet goods as I do hardwood so the overarm is always in the way. The small one would have been sufficient to keep for my uses.
I also should have gone 36" with router wing. Instead of buying a seperate table.
I also built a 2" platform and put the saw on it so the mobile base is useless but this allowed me to use my grandfathers workbench as outfeed.

[Christopher Charles]

I picked up a 1.75 hp this summer second hand, basically unused for a good enough price that I was planning to upgrade to the 3 hp and still be well ahead. The upgrade requires the motor a new controller and a gas shock, total is about $650 with shipping now. I have the electric setup. And I still haven’t done the upgrade, the 1.75 does fine. I did bog it once though that was on me (blade mismatched to 6/4 stock). If you have been good in the past, you’ll be fine with the 1.75 and the upgrade can be done later if you need it. If you can upgrade your power easily, might be worth doing now but you’ll have a hard time staying in budget with shipping and tax, etc. If you have overhead dust already I would not get the ss dust guard. You’ll want a thin kerf riving knife.

overall, quite a nice saw, I’m happy with mine.

[Michael Rutman]

I was in the same situation as you but had the budget for the 3hp so I splurged. I noticed something was better but couldn’t put my finger on it for months. Finally realized the 3hp has never burnt a piece of wood on me. It was rare, but the 1.75 would occasionally stress a little, stall, and I’d have burn marks. Then I analyzed it and realized I no longer had to baby my wood through, it was just one less thing to have to consider. The less things I need to keep in mind the less mistakes I make.

As for the rest, the outfeed table is a must have for me. Folds down 99% of the time, quick to flip up for the rare times I need it.

Did not get the router attachment and kind of regret it kind of don’t. I think in the end I don’t because I keep my router table set up for an entire project and would hate having to deal with changing it each time I go back to the table saw.

As far as table size, I got the big one and don’t “regret” it but I use it so rarely I question the need. At this point I break down long boards with my miter saw anyway. I’m about to get a track saw, so I doubt I’ll ever really need the extra size. I’d say it’s still good to have, but it honestly has become storage for the parts I don’t use as that side of the table saw is rarely used.

[fred everett]

Thanks for all the replies and excellent info. Woodcraft has a PCS 3 and 1.75 hp in stock so I'm going to look at both next week.


I was a rookie when I built my shop….only pulled two 20 amp circuits. It's a nightmare pulling wire down there so the lazy a$$ in me keeps thinking 'the old 1.5 Jet worked fine for decades.’ I could convert the circuit, but it’s the only circuit on that side and my jointer, DP and planer share it. I don’t see any way around pulling wire…..unless I’m missing something.

I own an Incra Miter Gauge and a Woodpeckers Table Saw Gauge so I hope to be squared up quickly.

The 30" tables brings the stock fence where the 36" brings the T-Glide at. I’ve no experience with either, but T-Glide seems a no-brainer at a $180 up.


My DIY overarm is a well refined infinitely adjustable spring arm boom piped into main DC. I get near zero air born dust with 3/4 MDF according to my Dylos Pro.


My shop-made outfeed legs adjust approx 6" and if needed can be cut. Someone said the miter slots won't line up which is something I hadn't considered….I see some plunge cuts in my future.


Unfortunately I found a flat spot on one of the wheels on my Shop-Fox mobile base. It seems you guys like the ICS base so I'll likely go that route at a $415 up.


Amazing underside cabinet/fold down by Chris….very nice indeed.


I notice nobody commented on the toothpick side table legs. Are those solid?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I notice nobody commented on the toothpick side table legs. Are those solid?

You mean the wing "legs"? I never even thought of them as a "toothpick" sized but you are correct. No, have not had any issues, other than they could drag on the ground as you move the saw and self adjust.... I have a 52" saw and have no complaints.
Yes the 52" is a space hog, but I did plunge cut a router plate in there so I don't need a router table taking us space. I have the T-Glide (good fence) and adjusted it to be 90 degrees, so I use the stock fence with the router. I build a sacrificial clamp on fence to route against. The wing is made of particle board, so I reinforced it and put some hardwood in there so the router won't sag the wing. So far, so good.

[Bill Sutherland]

Best thing I ever did for my PCS was add the Incra TS LS.

[fred everett]

You mean the wing "legs"? I never even thought of them as a "toothpick" sized but you are correct. No, have not had any issues, other than they could drag on the ground as you move the saw and self adjust.... I have a 52" saw and have no complaints.
Yes the 52" is a space hog, but I did plunge cut a router plate in there so I don't need a router table taking us space. I have the T-Glide (good fence) and adjusted it to be 90 degrees, so I use the stock fence with the router. I build a sacrificial clamp on fence to route against. The wing is made of particle board, so I reinforced it and put some hardwood in there so the router won't sag the wing. So far, so good.

Good to hear the legs are solid....they look kind of thin/undersized on their website.

[Jim Becker]

Fred, the two legs on the right side table don't really have to support all that much weight directly. I don't even use them and I have a cast iron router top on that end. They are more about not having long term sagging, etc., particularly with a composite table.

[Frank Pratt]

Firstly, in spite of how much I like having 3HP, if budget is a concern, 1.75HP will certainly get the job done.

Adding to the benefits of the ICS base is that it has a deeper footprint than the PCS base. The benefit being that if you have an outfeed table that supported by the saw only, it is much more stable. I have a 32" (or there abouts) outfeed & I can put my full weight on the end & not come close to lifting the saw.

[Rod Wolfy]

Ok, I'll weigh in again.

Go to the effort of pulling wire. While your at it, pull an extra one. I actually paid an Electrician to put one 125' around my house and a 60 amp panel in my 2 car garage. Then I pulled 4 or 5 wires. I have a ceiling mounted 12/3 corded reel on a 20 amp leg that I pulled. When I was crawling above the ceiling, I ran a 10/2 for a drop to my SS on a 220v 20amp, too.

Get the bigger motor now (cry once & you won't have to monkey with trying to put a motor correctly down the road. If you've been at this for more than 10 years, you know how it goes!)

The ICS base has one issue for me, in that it sticks out behind the saw by about 4". When my workbench was used as an outfeed table, there was a gap between the back of the saw and the table. I made a new workbench table base and it's about 1" off the back & 1" below now (and 12" of Beech wider, too).

When you pump up the ICS base, the legs on the right just get lifted off the floor by 1/2" to 1" and that's why you can turn the saw a quarter turn, if needed.

Your right about the 30" vs 36" fence. Definitely go with the 36".

IMO, it's about the money, get the 36" fence & the 3 hp motor and hold off a few months for the mobile base.

[Bryan Hall]

My old Jet 1.5 hp is dead and parts are obsolete...I have to make a move. Budget is $3500..maybe $4000, but that's pushing it. I've researched a TON and seems all roads lead to a SS. I'm 99% sure I'm going for PCS 1.75 hp with 36" side. I'm coming off a 1.5hp.....I'd be gaining .25 hp (prob a wash) but 1.5 has been fine for 25 yrs. Also, the TS has it's own 20 circuit which according to SS's tech support has tested out sufficient for their 1.75hp

I have a few questions but to give an idea what I do etc: I typically build smaller furniture and rarely do sheet goods. I have an outfeed w/ integrated downdraft a floating overarm dc, and a CC sled...all shop made and excellent so I'm hoping to use them all on the new saw. Also, I have a decent ShopFox mobile base....I have room but I will on occasion move the saw a few inches. I don't need a side router table. I don't see where I need the sliding cross-cut table accessary but I'm not sure on that.

To the SS owners, any gotchas and/or thoughts? Any accessories you wish you have added from jump? Other thoughts?

I should add, I'm good with regard to info on the false activations....I won't beat that dead horse lol.

I ended up with a 52" 5hp ICS largely because it was what was available to me on short notice. I added the woodpeckers rip-flip fence stop system and couldn't imagine having a 36" fence, PCS sized table, or ditching the fence stop system.

I also sent you a PM, but am unsure if it went through? Let me know if you got it.

[Jeremy Thornton]

Made this exact decision in June. I bought the PCS 36 inch and the industrial mobile base. I added on the dado brake cartridge. Before you even turn the saw on, you realize that you made the right decision: the setup is so easy....by far the best instructions I've ever seen. It's my first table saw but can't imagine that it gets much better.

[Geoff Barry]

I recently got a 3hp pcs 36". I got the dado caetridge and zero clearance insert at the same time, as well as the route wing (and 7" cast iron "spacer"). One thing to consider - I got a grizzly bearcrawl 4-swivel base instead of the PCS or ICS bases. Why? It's $115 . . . . (I also got the extension and place it under the router wing legs - I have limited space, so mobility is a plus). Also, the saw blade that ships with it is . . . meh. It allows them to say it comes with a blade. You'll want a better blade.

[Scott Bernstein]

You'll be happy with whatever version of the sawstop you purchase. I have mine in my garage hobby workshop. When I bought mine I was upgrading from a tiny benchtop "screamer" table saw (which was terrible). So the sawstop was a huge upgrade, especially since I had never used a cabinet saw before. At the time I had no 220V outlets in my garage, so I purchased the 1.75hp PCS with 36" rip capacity, industrial mobile base, and the "good" fence. I was very happy with the way it cut; however even with thin-kerf rip blades it would tend to burn and even stall out, tripping the dedicated-breaker, when cutting 8/4 hardwood (such as hickory), if I tried to move the wood through too fast. But if you go slowly, with a little patience, the 1.75hp will do everything you need. Pieces < 8/4 it generally had no problem with. About 2 years in I purchased a bandsaw which required 220V and that was the incentive I needed to bring in an electrician and install some 220V outlets in the garage. I then purchased the 3hp motor from sawstop and installed the new motor and starter switch myself. I really like having the extra power - it makes a big difference especially with the thicker pieces. And I really see the difference cutting dados with the dado stack as well. I have also upgraded the the dust collection to the large overarm dust collector hood and added the folding outfeed table. I have a separate cast iron router table, and I think I do like this better than having the router table wing on the SawSTop. Most recently, I added the Woodpecker's table saw flip stop system, which has really been a nice addition. If I was purchasing again, knowing what I know now from my experience with the saw, I'd purchase the industrial model with 5hp motor - mostly for the greater cross cut capacity. But obviously budget and space issues may dictate otherwise... And even though it is possible to do the upgrade from 1.75 to 3hp, it is certainly cheaper to just buy the 3hp version from the start. Also, if you have 1.75hp version it can be hooked up 120 or 220. I wonder if perhaps it might be less likely to stall out running on 220, or at least be less likely to trip the breaker. Good luck!