Some Sawstop Questions

[fred everett]

Unless you are absolutely insistant on the blade stop tech, I'd be looking at the Harvey saws. A lot less money, but simularly good build quality (and perhaps better). Yah I know, dead horse argument about accidents, but when I think about all the other tools and machines I have, and none have blade or bit or cutterhead stopping tech - I think I'd rather focus on what I'm doing than rely on tech.

Unfortunately, Harvey has no dealers on the east coast and it would be $360 shipping plus sales tax making it equivalent to that of Powermatic and SS cost wise. If I drive 45 minutes to tax free Delaware, I can make actual cuts on Powermatic and SS. I'm not comfortable buying something without touching it as this the most expensive tool I ever purchased.

Top priority is a quality table saw. I'm actually worried about the brake. Doesn't take much searching to learn the digital signal processor's software can be fooled....if that happens it's going to do it's job every time. Not unlike the Terminator - he was programed to kill Sarah Conner and that's what he did, but the first 2 were the wrong ones. That said, the false activations do seem quite rare.

[Justin Rapp]

Unfortunately, Harvey has no dealers on the east coast and it would be $360 shipping plus sales tax making it equivalent to that of Powermatic and SS cost wise. If I drive 45 minutes to tax free Delaware, I can make actual cuts on Powermatic and SS. I'm not comfortable buying something without touching it as this the most expensive tool I ever purchased.

Top priority is a quality table saw. I'm actually worried about the brake. Doesn't take much searching to learn the digital signal processor's software can be fooled....if that happens it's going to do it's job every time. Not unlike the Terminator - he was programed to kill Sarah Conner and that's what he did, but the first 2 were the wrong ones. That said, the false activations do seem quite rare.

I was gonna get my saw from tax free deleware but had no way to transport so i'd have to rent a truck. I found Woodwerks in Ohio shipped to me with no sales tax and paid the 250 shipping cost. It was worth it for me. I get you trying it, but the stores don't have all the models. I have been to 2 woodcraft stores recently (the one in PA and another in Washington DC) and both had the 1.75 on display. Maybe the 3.0 in the classroom. There was no powermatic on display.

[fred everett]

I set my hands on a SS yesterday in the store. I thought I'd be able to compare 3 saw brands on my spec but not the case...maybe miscommunication on the phone - I don't know. That said, I was able to do some comparisons and did come to some conclusions....just not 1:1 as the SS was the only saw available at my spec. I'm not going into details on the other brands because again not 1:1. In the end, I purchased the SS PCS 1.75/36" as I found it impressive.....fence, tables, mechanisms everything.

Many suggested the 3hp, but not wanting to delve into of my shops electrical I compromised. The brake was also a compromise. I didn't want the complexity of the brake, but the ability to bypass it took me back what I felt was an impressive saw. I'm hoping the arbor/table issues in the other thread are specific to that type saw....I hope. If everything goes well with the setup I'm pretty sure I'll be happy.

[Justin Rapp]

I set my hands on a SS yesterday in the store. I thought I'd be able to compare 3 saw brands on my spec but not the case...maybe miscommunication on the phone - I don't know. That said, I was able to do some comparisons and did come to some conclusions....just not 1:1 as the SS was the only saw available at my spec. I'm not going into details on the other brands because again not 1:1. In the end, I purchased the SS PCS 1.75/36" as I found it impressive.....fence, tables, mechanisms everything.

Many suggested the 3hp, but not wanting to delve into of my shops electrical I compromised. The brake was also a compromise. I didn't want the complexity of the brake, but the ability to bypass it took me back what I felt was an impressive saw. I'm hoping the arbor/table issues in the other thread are specific to that type saw....I hope. If everything goes well with the setup I'm pretty sure I'll be happy.

You must have missed my post as i mentioned they didn't have them all in the store. Glad you got the SS. you will love it and it's safe.

[Rod Wolfy]

Congratulations, Fred. Let us know how it's working for you in a few months. Make sure you replace the saw blade with a thin kerf if you're going to try some 8/4 in the mean time.

[fred everett]

Completed my SS setup….best setup instructions I’ve seen. After shimming the cast wings I was flat within .003 in all directions. Moving on with the setup I did experience the two common complaints….side table and wavy fence. I also experienced something I’d love to get opinions on…..I BELIEVE it’s a non-issue, but more on that later. My side table is workable for now, but I’ll rebuild it. When I got to fence setup my dial indicator showed waviness along both faces; however, both read 0 to the slots a good distance from the ends so I figured I’d move on with the setup. With the fence on the right side of the blade, I toed out the far end out 002. I don’t remember the numbers, but the 5 cut method/calipers told me I was good ripping an 18” piece. So good I was in disbelief so it did the test several times....all gave excellent results.

I’m rewinding here to b4 I did any cutting so I can get opinions on what I believe is a non issue. When unpacking the included blade I noticed chips in the teeth....it also seemed thin. Wanting to stay on the SS spec for initial cuts, I installed that blade. Once installed, I noticed the blade wasn’t centered in the insert, however, when rotated, it did not contact it. Assuming SS makes their insert to with leeway, I moved on for test cuts. When I started the saw for the first time the blade contacted the insert which was of course screaming loud….AND chips flew up on the table. I initially thought the brake triggered but the blade was still visible which I was happy about. After thinking about the chips/thin blade I suspected an out of balance or flexing issue so I installed a Freud blade. With a green light and no contact with the insert manually rotating the Freud blade, I started the saw. This time no contact, no chips and no issues ripping or cross-cutting. At that point I decided to put it though its paces on an unfinished shop project……3/4" oak and hardboard planer out-feed table. Saw performed nicely ripping 3x24 oak without issue.

I figured I’d post all the details so the pros might let me know if I made assumptions when I should not have, or if I did anything incorrectly. I’m open to anything suggested.

[Rod Wolfy]

Yes, I took the SawStop blade off after the first week. I put on a Freud thin kerf blade and then with the blade all the way up, measured to the slot at the back (on a tooth) then rotated that tooth to the front and checked to the slot. Mine was dead on.

I have a WW II and a Freud Glue Line Rip blade, but I've never used them. My fence is wavy, but the cuts aren't affected. I put a Jessem set up on the top of my fence, with mag switches, to quickly remove it, if needed.

[fred everett]

Yes, I took the SawStop blade off after the first week. I put on a Freud thin kerf blade and then with the blade all the way up, measured to the slot at the back (on a tooth) then rotated that tooth to the front and checked to the slot. Mine was dead on.

I have a WW II and a Freud Glue Line Rip blade, but I've never used them. My fence is wavy, but the cuts aren't affected. I put a Jessem set up on the top of my fence, with mag switches, to quickly remove it, if needed.

I figured I'd use the SS blade for setup and if I was able to get a little mileage out of it that would be a bonus. The blade is junk but I'm not going to beat SS up on it....doesn't bother me in the least.

The wavy fence is a non-issue for most operations I perform. Keyword is "most" as I just ran into cuts where it is an issue...small parts. Unfortunately, I'm building an urn and the joinery will be hand cut dovetails. I like to start with near perfect parts as any deviation is compounded. I'm currently reading through the threads on here related to replacing SS fence faces.

[Jim Dwight]

Congratulations Fred! You have the same saw I bought several years ago. I did not have your difficult with the blade it came with but I decided pretty quickly it was not a great blade. I mainly use one of two Freud thin kerf all around blades (a Fusion or a 50 tooth atb+raker) but if the saw struggles I put on a Freud thin kerf ripping blade. I sometimes use full kerf blades, usually without any issue, but went to thin kerf as my main blades after the saw struggled with deep cuts in wood that was warping as it was cut.

For thin kerf blades, you may want a 2mm riving knife which SawStop offers for about $15. I use it after finding I could not set the stock riving knife well with the thin kerf blades. I also went to a Colliflower throat plate which I like most of the time. It is mainly aluminum but has a sacrificial insert that are made of mdf. The inserts are very flimsy but they work. I made my own out of plywood and solid wood, I think they work better.

Jim