Sliding Table Saw - Why Slider Above Table?

[Rod Sheridan]

I wouldn’t adjust anything unless it doesn’t produce accurate workpieces….Regards, Rod

[Jim Becker]

I wouldn’t adjust anything unless it doesn’t produce accurate workpieces….Regards, Rod

I agree with this a whole bunch...it can be so easy to screw something up.

[Howard Dean]

An additional question before I forget. The sales rep recommends a 30 amp breaker for the saw, yet I see people using 20 amp breakers and even 15 amp. I would think that a dedicated 20 amp should be sufficient. What do you guys use?

[Rod Sheridan]

An additional question before I forget. The sales rep recommends a 30 amp breaker for the saw, yet I see people using 20 amp breakers and even 15 amp. I would think that a dedicated 20 amp should be sufficient. What do you guys use?

Go with the manufacturer’s recommendation, including if they specify a maximum breaker size. My saw is limited to a 20 ampere circuit with a maximum short circuit current of 5KA………….Regards, Rod.

[Gabriel Marusic]

Echoing what others said, if you're happy with the results you're getting now, I wouldn't calibrate it. I got a K3 last year and I wasn't at all happy with how it arrived, though it was technically all within spec. What seemed like a very straightforward process for calibrating the slider height, toe out, crosscut fence and rip fence was anything but and took a lot of days of frustration and tinkering to finally get it where I have it now. I am mostly happy with it now but am one of those people who can get lost in the pursuit of perfection and I spent a lot of time fiddling with it instead of using it. I loosened the slider completely and restarted the calibration from the ground up at least 7 times throughout the whole ordeal.

[Howard Dean]

Thanks. Better safe than sorry. Texted the builder, who was able to switch out the wiring for the table saw to accommodate a 30 amp breaker.

[Chris Parks]

Echoing what others said, if you're happy with the results you're getting now, I wouldn't calibrate it. I got a K3 last year and I wasn't at all happy with how it arrived, though it was technically all within spec. What seemed like a very straightforward process for calibrating the slider height, toe out, crosscut fence and rip fence was anything but and took a lot of days of frustration and tinkering to finally get it where I have it now. I am mostly happy with it now but am one of those people who can get lost in the pursuit of perfection and I spent a lot of time fiddling with it instead of using it. I loosened the slider completely and restarted the calibration from the ground up at least 7 times throughout the whole ordeal.

So given your time again after purchase you would not touch it? What was the reason that you did in the first place? With European sliders the first thing you should do is use it, no problems no need to touch it. The more expensive the machine such as the top end Felders/Format etc I would not hesitate to get it commissioned by a factory tech and I definitely would not touch it.