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For reference, this is my jointer, and that's the way that I work, I am comfortable working that way, I am not suggesting anyone copy me. It's your fingers. look after them how you see fit.
For most of the time I owned a 24" machine, downsized to this little fella, Its a 20" Wadkin.
Wadkin Jointer1.jpg
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I dont know looks kinda light to me.
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Well….I would have photographed that “carrier” with a lot of little airplanes all lined up in neat threatening rows.
And I would have insisted that the seller scrub off “planer”, ….don’t think he was much of a planner. Kinda hard to get that thing to a job-site ….with the HANDLE missing !!
But overall …that is a heck of a nice machine !!
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A twisted board should end up thin, so there's not much strength for it to twist back.
To flatten a board with twist I put the concave side down and take light passes on a 16" two knife rough milling jointer. Using push pads and a guard, I nip 1/32" off the bearing surface corners. It's OK if the board rocks, the next few passes will true it up. The push pads and a light touch help. Press too hard, take too much, and go to slowly, and the wood hits the lead edge of the outfeed table.
If things are really troublesome, I take out the junk power plane and pretend I'm hand planing it.
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I don't tape shims I just put a shim under the infeed part of the twisted board so that the gap on the front and back of the board are close to even. Then I joint the board, dragging the shim with it until I'm close to the blade guard and then I remove it, either manually or by taking slight pressure off that side of board. Repeat until the board stands on it's own and you're good to go. Always have a shim by the jointer for this purpose. Hope that description makes sense. Good luck
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