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Thread: Buying a Cheap Lunchbox Planer to Strip Wood

  1. #1
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    Buying a Cheap Lunchbox Planer to Strip Wood

    I am pulling up the DF floors in the living room of our 110 year-old home. A lot of the wood is hacked up but I am thinking I can save about 200 SF of it. I am considering buying a cheap planer to strip the finish off the wood. It is worth it to me to be able to put this wood to use. The wood is clear vertical grain

    Has anyone done this? Wondering if the planer would hold up long enough to finish the job.

    Would probably do it outside or figure out some way to catch the shavings.
    Last edited by Kris Cook; 12-11-2021 at 9:49 PM.
    Regards,

    Kris

  2. #2
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    The harbor Freight planer is $$350 or so, so you'd be paying a couple bucks a square foot for the lumber, plus your time... I'm sure it would do the job, although with old flooring you're likely to nick the knives, maybe a few times so you might end up needing a few sets of knives. Then you might be able to sell the planer and recoup some of that cost. Maybe you could find a used one.

    You could use a hand held power plane and do it for less money and more time.

    You have to worry about lead in old finishes. Old paint will have it for sure, and even clear varnish can have it. You could use a lead test kit to check. If lead is in the finish, I wouldn't mess with it personally.

    Old lumber can be beautiful but no guarantee. It's your call to make.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  3. #3
    Lot of shops run painted dirty wood only when the knives are dull and knicked. We ran them on highest speed as that makes the knives
    hold up better. Then the rough planed stuff was planed with newly sharpened knives. Slow feed makes the knives dull quickly.

  4. #4
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    If you decide to do that, I would suggest you get a planer with knives you don't have to adjust. That way you can sharpen the disposables at least once quickly, and get it back to work.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  5. #5
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    Try and find a used 734 dewalt on marketplace or craigslist. If you need to replace the knives mid-way, they are like 40 or 50 bux. When done, sell the until and you've maybe spent 50 bux on a set of knives. I'd also sell it with a new set of knives installed so the new owner is happy with their purchase.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  6. You can use a bench top planer, but you'll have to baby it. Very shallow cuts.

  7. #7
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    I doubt the machine would suffer, you be removing as little wood as you could manage. The knives on the other hand ... Two passes would probably be a good idea. First pass with beat up knives to get most of the finish off, second pass with new knives for a good surface. It goes without saying but beware of metal.

  8. #8
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    I suggest a DeWalt 734.
    The blades are super easy to switch around and/or replace.

    They seldom come up for sale used - but - if you don't plan on keeping the planer anyhow, that shouldn't be a problem.

    The cheaper ones (Porter Cable, Wen (which BTW - has a fairly decent price tag on one with a helical head), Harbor Freight, Etc) would work also & you could probably sell it after you're done - however - you'll probably sell the DeWalt faster & recoup moreof your initial investment.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  9. #9
    Unless the wood is something special, I wouldn’t do it. I would save it and use it somehow though.
    If you decide to do it the advice others have posted sounds good to me.

  10. #10
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    FWIW, during my career as a research engineer (USDA Forest Products Lab), we did a study with the DOD on the feasibility of removing paint from painted wood siding from Army barracks (the Army had millions of BF). Our conclusion was that you can do it, but the planer knives dull quickly. This is due to the solids in the paint as well as grit between multiple paintings. I would assume planing wood flooring would be similar as grit is ground into flooring. Be prepared to sharpen your knives a few times. Here are a couple links if you want more detail:

    https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/p...36&header_id=p

    We addressed knife wear in the following article:

    https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/p...51&header_id=p

    Also, I would do a lead test on the finish. My 1920's home had 0.2% Pb in the floor varnish. Most people don't realize that old varnish can have lead in it.
    Last edited by Bob Falk; 12-12-2021 at 11:44 AM.

  11. #11
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    OK. I will take all of these helpful suggestions in account.

    Thanks everyone

    Looks like I will be able to salvage closer to 250 SF

    Pulling up 16' CVG Fir boards...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards,

    Kris

  12. #12
    Would using an overhead sander work, it may be easier to change paper and grits. Jack

  13. #13
    If you want to reuse it as flooring, planning it won't help much. It would be better just to install it and then sand it. With coarse paper in a drum sander it won't matter that it has finish on it, the sander will go through the finish in seconds. It will go through the flooring too in not very many seconds if you leave it in one place.

    If you want to reuse it as lumber, planning it may help but really only if it is not back cut like current flooring is. You might get 1/2 inch of usable lumber out of 3/4 inch flooring. I'm not sure it is worth the effort. Unless you need 1/2 inch lumber.

    You may want to figure in a set of knives if you are using the kind of planner whose knives cannot be sharpened. One of the reasons I still use my AP-10 is it is pretty easy to resharpen and use the knives again. It is not a great planner, it snipes and doesn't maintain thickness real well, but it was cheap ($100) and it has stayed cheap since the knives can be resharpened. Finish is harder on knives than wood is and sometimes it also builds up on them.

  14. #14
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    I wish I could justify an overhead sander for this project.

    The back is not relieved, so I will get full thickness (minus material removed with the plane). I don't plan on using it for flooring. Currently have 400 SF of WO sitting in the heated front porch acclimating for the last 2 weeks.

    I am thinking:

    - Face frames for cabinets
    - Wainscot
    - Picture frames
    - Whatever else I can think of

    I need to get this lumber stored and was a little concerned about one side being sealed (maybe less of a worry with vertical grain lumber but would hate to see it start cupping) so I went to town and got a HF planer. With 20% discount it was $288. Also got a hand-wand metal detector.

    Here is the first piece through the planer
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Regards,

    Kris

  15. #15
    Nice straight grain. I’m sure you’ll find some use for it.

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