MM16 caster question

[Aaron Heck]

These look like the Zambus/Great Lake casters that everyone gets

https://www.amazon.com/Skelang-Level.../dp/B07ZD1T5NW

I was just a little confused on the bolt i need. I see “m12 x 1.75” mentioned in past threads. Is that just a 1 and 3/4” m12 bolt? Any specific thread pitch or are they all the same? And i guess to mount the bolt simply goes thru the holes in the base of the saw and screws into the caster? Simple as that?

[Richard Coers]

https://www.fastenermart.com/underst...fasteners.html

[Matthew Hills]

This is the Zambus caster I ordered for my MM16:
https://www.zambus.com/products/ac-0300s.html

[Aaron Heck]

Thanks for the link. So m12 x 1.75 is standard course thread. So i just need the right length
And thats just the thickness of the base plus maybe 1/2” to thread into the caster? Thats the length of the m12 bolt i need?

[Greg Quenneville]

Those casters come with a threaded stud and a nut. The stud takes a 5mm allen key, and there is just about 1/2” of stud between the caster and the nut, so plenty for the average steel frame member.

[Aaron Heck]

thanks, I can't seem to view that attachment, but I looked a little closer at my base and its just 4 simple holes drilled thru. So it seems like you just attach the caster pretty simply with the threaded rod and nut (and maybe a washer for good measure) thru the hole and you're done.

[Jim Becker]

thanks, I can't seem to view that attachment,

Click on the Donate button up above to become a Contributor...that opens up viewing photos, using private messaging and access to the Free Classifieds and other features. Only six bucks.

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[Ned Otter]

Just an FYI - if you have 4 casters, each rated for ~500 lbs, the max weight you should put on this casters is ~1,000 lbs, otherwise the wheel is too difficult to turn to raise/lower the caster.

Zambus is not the only game in town, and some competitors come with a builtin "ratchet":

https://levelingcasterstore.com/coll...nt=29456485970

[Aaron Heck]

I actually ordered this today
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fingers crossed. Figured since the saw only weights 500-600lbs hoping they will be ok.

In all honestly, the saw doesn't turn on anymore so I didn't want to sink a bunch of money in expensive casters. We are moving this next week so I just wanted to be able to move it around easier for now.

So dealing with this is step #2, not sure how I'm going to approach that. I think the switch is known to go bad so you may see a new topic from me soon about dealing with that. The saw has just been sitting as I've been out of the hobby for the past 10+ years but hoping to get back into it soon.

[Erik Loza]

Aaron, those casters look fine. Be aware: Centauro powder-coated their frames AFTER the nut has been welded in place for the leveling feet or casters, so it is not uncommon to have paint in the threads and for it to be some work to get the studs in there at first. I suppose you could pick up an M12x1.75 tap and chase out the holes if you wanted to do it right. Also, if the previous owner left any of the leveling bolts in place before putting the machine into storage or whatever, you may need some penetrating oil or a torch to break them free. The OEM leveling studs were of an uncoated black oxide style, so they were prone to rusting/seizing into place if left for long periods. Just a heads-up on all this.

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

I may be approaching this install wrong. My saw doesn't seem to have any threaded bolts that I can see, though sticking my fingers under the saw is not the most fun.

I have 4 holes on the base, I was just going to run the M12 stud that comes with the caster thru these holes and tighten them down with a nut and washer. Will this be ok or I am missing something fundamental?

20211206_153437.jpg

[Erik Loza]

If you were to look at the underside of the saw, there are two transverse square steel tubes that run perpendicular to the long axis of the base "pie tin". These are through-drilled, vertically, and the threaded nuts are welded INSIDE those. If you pinkie finger would fit into any of those four blind holes that you see, you would be able to feel the threading. I'm not explaining this well but you will see once you lay the saw down/hoist the saw off the ground in order to install those casters.

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

wow, ok, thanks, yeah, I was going in a totally different direction with the install. I'm glad you said something. I can't wait to see underneath there. I'm guessing your way is much more stable than my way of mounting them through the existing holes would have been.

Gotta figure out how to tip this thing a bit.....

[Erik Loza]

...Gotta figure out how to tip this thing a bit.....

If you own a pickup truck, lower the tailgate and put a towel or piece of carpet over the edge. With the OEM mobility kit, back the machine up to the tailgate and, using the tailgate as a fulcrum, lean it back until it tips into the bed of the truck. Then install your new casters. Tip back to vertical in reverse order. You WILL need a second strong back in order to do this safely.

Erik

[Aaron Heck]

does this look right to you? I must be totally missing it.

The only thing I can see threaded is the two holes in the back where I remove the mobility kit.

20211206_175825.jpg