Help Cutting Small Parts...

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would make a small sled for the bandsaw

[Edwin Santos]

Check out this video of a woodworker named Ted Baldwin who has devised several ways to cut insanely small parts safely and accurately, including at the miter saw. I kid you not, this video changed the way I work when I am cutting small parts. At first you might not be impressed, but be patient and you'll be glad you did.

He uses a lot of double stick tape, and so do I, but I have also used hot glue in place of the double stick tape very effectively.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knotpj60bsk&t=88s

[Aaron Rosenthal]

If I understand correctly this thing I saw on the Stumpy Nubs YouTube site 6 months ago may help. It’s called a fast cap 10 work holder for mitre saws. Not sure if it’s what you need but thought I’d mention it.

[Roger Feeley]

+1 on the zero clearance stuff
+1 on a small parts sled

i find that it’s not the cut on the chop saw that catches the piece. It’s raising the spinning blade that catches. The teeth on the blade are wider than the body of the blade. So when you finish the cut the blade isn’t really in contact with the wood. Try stopping the blade while it’s in the down position. You should get less kickback.

[Roger Feeley]

Rockler has a small parts sled.

https://www.rockler.com/rockler-tabl...all-parts-sled

I have one and it works very well.

Cliff

I also have the rockler small parts sled. Maybe I’m using it wrong but I still get a bit of kickback. The sled is fine but the part can get hung up on the stop block I use for cutting many parts. It’s not a big deal. I was cutting about 500 parts for a mosaic end grain cutting board. I ruined maybe a dozen pieces.

[Bill Dufour]

C clamp a board to both sides of the fence then cut it in two for a zero clearance fence.
Bill D

[Derek Arita]

So, what worked was a zero clearance on the bottom and back surface of the cut. Using just the bottom zero clearance, the part still went flying.