I'll be cutting several 3/8 x 3/4 pieces for a project. I'd like to use my miter saw for the job, however whenever I try, the part goes flying no matter what I put in its way. Anyone have a good trick to do the job?
[OP]
Contributor
I'll be cutting several 3/8 x 3/4 pieces for a project. I'd like to use my miter saw for the job, however whenever I try, the part goes flying no matter what I put in its way. Anyone have a good trick to do the job?
Contributor
Put a board along the fence to create zero clearance then when you cut thru your piece leave the blade down and shutoff the saw
Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution
Contributor
Yeah, a real zero-clearance fence prevents the tiny part rotating into the path of the blade.
Also -- blue tape. Stick a piece of blue tape on the tiny part before you cut it. Use the tape to apply a bit of tension to pull the part away from the blade when it gets severed. Works most of the time, but not always.
Contributor
If you have a table saw sled with clamp down ability, try that. I like that approach to keep my fingers far away from blades.
Contributor
I have a special tablesaw sled I made with built in clamp downs.
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Contributor
I did the same thing with a table saw sled for small pieces. Works great. IMHO worth the time to make the sled.Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
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Table saw and sled for this need for me...I really don't like cutting small parts on a miter saw, even with a zero clearance fence.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
+1 on using a table saw and sled. I often use the eraser end of a pencil to hold the part down. Thanks David Marks!
[OP]
Contributor
I have used my sled for this before, but my sled is large and I was holding down the small piece with a pencil eraser. I was a real difficult thing for me to do with the weight of the sled and having to hold so many parts down. Guess I'm getting old.I have to build a small sled for this very thing and maybe with hold downs.
Anyways, I did the job at the miter saw with zero clearance as suggested and it worked very well. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Contributor
I cut small parts on the bandsaw. I have to cut 54 or 72 smallish trapezoids for every banjo I build, so I use the fence to set the length and a dedicated miter gauge for the angle. On my old Jet 18" saw the table overhung the back of the frame so I could put a box on the rolling workbench and under the saw table to catch the pieces, but my new Parks saw sticks out further back there, so I took advantage of the 45 degree area and a piece of vinyl that came on a window years ago to make a slide. Once the table is full each time I cut a block one falls off the back onto the slide and shoots into the bucket. It's very entertaining.
Moderator
Make a quick and dirty small sled for the purpose out of scraps. You don't have to use a big heavy one for small work.I have used my sled for this before, but my sled is large and I was holding down the small piece with a pencil eraser. I was a real difficult thing for me to do with the weight of the sled and having to hold so many parts down. Guess I'm getting old.
Anyways, I did the job at the miter saw with zero clearance as suggested and it worked very well. Thanks for all the suggestions.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
I saw this tip some years back, and have used it, although I have to say that the previous responses might well be better options. This is really quick though. Put some screening material over your shop vac nozzle, and position the nozzle just next to the end of your workpiece (that is, the piece that will be cut off). I use an old bungee around the right mitersaw table (I like to hold with my left, pull the saw down with my right), and the nozzle is parallel to the workpiece and just to the right of the piece that will be cut off. The little piece ends up right there on the nozzle, sitting on the screening. I found it works best with the crevice nozzle attachment. I have extras, so the one with the screening (which is just rubberbanded across the end of the nozzle) sits at my mitersaw for use whenever it's a small cutoff.
Ken
Contributor
Rockler has a small parts sled.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-tabl...all-parts-sled
I have one and it works very well.
Cliff
The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
Charles Bukowski
Contributor
You can make one yourself for a couple of bucks and almost no time at all. I have two T-tracks for hold down clamps and a stop block. Smaller is definitely better for this.
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Contributor
I also have the rockler small parts sled. Maybe I’m using it wrong but I still get a bit of kickback. The sled is fine but the part can get hung up on the stop block I use for cutting many parts. It’s not a big deal. I was cutting about 500 parts for a mosaic end grain cutting board. I ruined maybe a dozen pieces.
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