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Thread: water coming out of dishwasher air gap

  1. #16
    You don't need an air gap for that, you only need a high-loop in the drain line. If the worst case scenarios are water spraying out of the air gap when it fails or some dirty water finding its way back into the dishwasher past the loop, I'll do without an air gap, thanks.

    If draining into a disposal, it's nearly impossible to pressurize the dishwasher's drain line- for that to happen the main drain line would have to be totally plugged, the sink drain tightly plugged, and the disposal would have to completely fill with water from the dishwasher. Most people (that I know of at least) with disposals don't cap them in normal use, and a typical sink will hold more water than the water used in a full dishwashing cycle.
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  2. #17
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    Don't some local plumbing codes still require an air gap?
    < insert spurious quote here >

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Tyler Bancroft View Post
    Assuming their local code doesn't require an air gap.
    There is no local code out there that requires a through counter air gap with the potential to puke onto your counter. Its ancient tech.

  4. #19
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    Not to be argumentative, but ancient tech or not, there are states and areas that require them. California (of course), Washington, Minnesota, and Hawaii are commonly noted as having this requirement, but I couldn't find a comprehensive list. Granted, everyone hates them, and they've been around a long time, but when properly installed and maintained they work. Plumbing traps are ancient tech too, but that doesn't mean they aren't needed or don't work. This is why I said in my original post "see if an air gap is really required by code in your area".
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  5. #20
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    I find the idea that the "ancient tech" air gap can't handle the pump output of a modern dishwasher to be a bit silly:
    the newer dishwashers don't empty noticeably faster than the older ones, and they're pumping out a whole lot less water.
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  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post
    I find the idea that the "ancient tech" air gap can't handle the pump output of a modern dishwasher to be a bit silly:
    the newer dishwashers don't empty noticeably faster than the older ones, and they're pumping out a whole lot less water.
    I think what you will commonly find is that the air gap is very often confused with protecting the water supply and the drain most commonly by home inspectors and not building/code inspectors. The high loop (which are now almost always doubly covered in most dishwashers because the manufacturers are integrating a high loop on the side/back of the appliance from the factory due to home center sales of appliances and homeowner/handyman installation) is the standard.

    "P2717.2 Sink and dishwasher - Dishwashing machines may connect directly to the drainage system and do not require an indirect connection by drainage air gap or air break"

    "P2717.3 Sink, dishwasher and food grinder. The combined discharge from a sink, dishwasher, and waste grinder is permitted to discharge through a single 11/2 inch (38 mm) trap. The discharge pipe from the dishwasher shall be increased to a minimum of 3/4 inch (19 mm) in diameter and shall connect with a wye fitting between the discharge of the food-waste grinder and the trap inlet or to the head of the food grinder. The dishwasher waste line shall rise and be securely fastened to the underside of the counter before connecting to the sink tail piece or the food grinder."

    Virtually no one is installing through counter/above the counter air gaps for a dishwasher. No one.

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