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Thread: SawsStop 10" contractor blade bogs and stops

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    Stephen,

    It sounds like you have the riving knife positioned a little too close to the rip fence. I think the riving knife clamps away from the rip fence so it may resolve the issue. If not, it is not hard to move the riving knife position. There are little teeth you use so it isn't infinitely variable. Shifting it a tooth away from the rip fence may solve the binding but it may also create the issue I described earlier where the offcut, if significant in width, tries to pull the work away from the fence. I could not find a position that worked well with the thicker knife and a thin kerf blade. But with the thinner knife, my cuts are good.

    Jim
    Hey Jim, good to hear it did the trick for you. Thanks for the positioning tips, I think I am going to resist making adjustments for now. Got the thin kerf rip blade today and ran a few more cuts and had the same issue after a few cuts. My thinner 2.0mm riv knive is arriving Tuesday so I just shut it down and doing other projects until it gets here. When it does I will just shim it with some tape if I need too to keep it tight so I can easily switch back to the stock riv and blade.

    I have the contractors 10" SS so everything I read sounds like the thin kerf is probably the way to go for my two main current uses and low HP saw. I bought a thin kerf combo and a thin kerf rip blade so when I switch the riv knive to the 2.0mm I expect I will for the foreseeable future use those two blades. Will have the stock combo sharpened though and keep the stock riv knive so if I do I will have what I need.

  2. #32
    Ok new 2.0mm riv knife and it does solve the binding problem completely. I put 2 pieces of tape on each side and it snaps in snug but not 'snap in' snug like the stock one does. Tempted to add another piece on each side. It does have a little wiggle to it if I tug by hand but it really does not seem like it would come out. If I give it a strong tug I don't feel like it is remotely coming loose and there is also nothing really pushing on it much as it just keeps the spread going after the cut, so I might just leave it. The reason I am using tape instead of adjusting the saw mount is I want to just put the regular kerf combo blade and 2.3 riv knive back in for working with bigger stock (I know its just a few moments with a hex right).

    Cut about a 100 rips with the 2.0 riv knife and the thin kerf rip blade and it worked just fine. The thin kerf blade does I think cut very clean but I thought the stock combo was fine too. I do see though that I will probably use the jointer a little less so there is that. I get some rip out with the jointer more than I like but I think that is more of a crappy wood problem than a me or jointer problem but that's another post

    I just dunno. Could have just gone down to Lowes and picked up another $60 blade last week and sent the first one off for sharpening but instead when all was said and done I bought $150 worth of stuff, waited a week and its a little, meh...

    but I learned stuff and that's always good.
    Last edited by Stephen White; 12-08-2021 at 10:53 AM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Central New Jersey
    Posts
    1,007
    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen White View Post
    Ok new 2.0mm riv knife and it does solve the binding problem completely. I put 2 pieces of tape on each side and it snaps in snug but not 'snap in' snug like the stock one does. Tempted to add another piece on each side. It does have a little wiggle to it if I tug by hand but it really does not seem like it would come out. If I give it a strong tug I don't feel like it is remotely coming loose and there is also nothing really pushing on it much as it just keeps the spread going after the cut, so I might just leave it. The reason I am using tape instead of adjusting the saw mount is I want to just put the regular kerf combo blade and 2.3 riv knive back in for working with bigger stock (I know its just a few moments with a hex right).

    Cut about a 100 rips with the 2.0 riv knife and the thin kerf rip blade and it worked just fine. The thin kerf blade does I think cut very clean but I thought the stock combo was fine too. I do see though that I will probably use the jointer a little less so there is that. I get some rip out with the jointer more than I like but I think that is more of a crappy wood problem than a me or jointer problem but that's another post

    I just dunno. Could have just gone down to Lowes and picked up another $60 blade last week and sent the first one off for sharpening but instead when all was said and done I bought $150 worth of stuff, waited a week and its a little, meh...

    but I learned stuff and that's always good.
    I am glad you got things working. All machines need maintenance over time. The extra money you spent is well worth the education!
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  4. #34
    Thanks Justin!

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