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Thread: SawsStop 10" contractor blade bogs and stops

  1. #1

    SawsStop 10" contractor blade bogs and stops

    Ok have done maybe 500-600 rips with various hardwood over the past few months. Starting ripping hard maple this morning and for the first time had issues. 4 different times the blade slowed and then came to a complete stop with light blinking fast. Had to unplug and plug back in to use again.

    My first thought is that the this hard maple is particularly dense or the blade is dull (original combination blade that came with) but curious if others have had this issue. I'm ripping 2' 4/4 (13/16th) hard maple.

    I did use the air compressor to blow out saw dust yesterday and put waxed blade and saw top but other than that have not done anything to the SS since setting up.

    Also question, should I only get a sawsstop blade or does it matter?
    Last edited by Stephen White; 11-30-2021 at 4:42 PM.

  2. #2
    Could be dull blade. Do you have a newer sharper blade to try?

    Do you have the riving knife installed? Even if you do, releasing internal stress in the wood can close up the kerf enough to pinch the blade. If this the problem, it is unsafe or to cut straight through on a table saw. A better option is a bandsaw but you have to rig up infeed and outfeed table extensions. Sometimes you can use a table saw if you rip part way through on the first cut. Flip the board end for end and rip an 1/8” short of fully through. Final cut goes all the way through. This works because the final strip is weak enough to compress. The through cut effectively widens the kerf. You will need a jointer to true the edge. The board may come out warped.

    Edit: just re-read that the workpiece is 2’ long. Perfect length to cut on a bandsaw. Also becomes more likely a dull blade.

    One more edit: Any 10” blade should work. Some caveats, no anti-kickback shoulders behind the cutting teeth, not too thin (most thin kerf blades work with the riving knife, but there is a limit), some 10” blades are not exactly 10” and you have to adjust the clearance between blade and brake.
    Last edited by Thomas Wilson; 11-30-2021 at 4:56 PM.

  3. #3
    I had this happen when ripping 8/4 HM too. I also had the wood close up behind the blade requiring a small wedge on the outboard end of the cut. I was running a combo blade that had been on the saw for a while. Changed the blade out for a clean sharp rip blade and I was able to complete the cuts without further issue.

  4. #4
    What’s the tooth count? For rip 10 inch saw ,I want 18 tooth ,not 20 something.

  5. #5
    Thomas, yeah have just the riving knife. I use a crosscut sled on the saw as well on another regular project and can only have riving knife for that so just got in habit of just using it that way. Been cutting the same maple for prob 500+ rips without issue but that doesn't mean much as this is the first time I have been doing continuous rips on any table saw. I do see folks using the band saw but I have have seen lots of problems with it not being true (a little or lot wave) and I need the cuts to be perfect. I get that people are able to do it without the wave but I seem to often get a little wave on my bandsaw cuts from time to time (have been meaning to spend time figuring out why but that would be a different post).

    Jack, what rip blade did you go for?

    Mel the tooth count is 40 on the stock combo blade. Are you saying I should go less?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kansas City
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    Which lights are blinking? both? What's that code?
    Hobbyist

  7. #7
    For ripping …absolutely!

  8. #8
    yeah I guess I got sloppy because in the middle of this issue I had a small piece of wood hit blade and bing me on the finger. I am crazy careful on table saws (brake or no brake) so this both shocked and concerned me (also bruised my finger tip, no big deal) so trying to figure out what it was. Had my shield on so face protected but hate flying things in shop

  9. #9
    checking out blades and a rip blade would be cool but I just don't want to have to change the blade every time I crosscut so anyone have a great combination blade recommendation for ripping 2' 1 1/2 strips and using with a crosscut sled?

    Edit:
    Went with Freud 10" x 50T Thin Kerf Combination Blade. If I still have issues then will try a rip blade.

    Thanks everyone for all the help!
    Last edited by Stephen White; 11-30-2021 at 7:22 PM.

  10. #10
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen White View Post
    checking out blades and a rip blade would be cool but I just don't want to have to change the blade every time I crosscut so anyone have a great combination blade recommendation for ripping 2' 1 1/2 strips and using with a crosscut sled?

    Edit:
    Went with Freud 10" x 50T Thin Kerf Combination Blade. If I still have issues then will try a rip blade.

    Thanks everyone for all the help!
    You ran 500+ rips on the stock blade, you blade is dulled out. SawStop's stock blade, while carbide tipped is basically a stock blade. One to get you going for some test cuts and I am shocked you made that many cuts with it already. If you do plan to do a lot of ripping in one sweep, drop in a good ripping blade like Forrest Woodworker II Ripping blade, 30t or for thick dense stuff the 20t. You will swear it's a different saw. Another blade to try without the $125 price tag of a Forrest is https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM75R010 which you can grab for about $60 on Amazon.

    The combo blade you grabbed is ok, but tooth count is still high for a combo blade. You might be ok for a while but once you see any little burn it's time to send that out for sharpening.

    You also can get your SawStop blade sharpened but it's a $45 blade. It might not be cost effective depending on the cost of sharpening services near you.

    Do you also pull your blade and clean it the pitch and resin buildup? CMT mades a good cleaner but some people use simple green.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  11. #11
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    I hear people saying that they don't want to change back and forth between cross cut and ripping blade because it takes too much time. I timed myself changing blades and it takes me less than a minute and a half to change blades. The cutting speed and lack of burning with a true ripping blade in hard maple is hard to beat. You'll spend more than a minute and a half cleaning up the burn marks made by a combination blade. I no longer use any combination blades on my saw at all.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USN(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Rapp View Post
    You ran 500+ rips on the stock blade, you blade is dulled out. SawStop's stock blade, while carbide tipped is basically a stock blade. One to get you going for some test cuts and I am shocked you made that many cuts with it already. If you do plan to do a lot of ripping in one sweep, drop in a good ripping blade like Forrest Woodworker II Ripping blade, 30t or for thick dense stuff the 20t. You will swear it's a different saw. Another blade to try without the $125 price tag of a Forrest is https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM75R010 which you can grab for about $60 on Amazon.

    The combo blade you grabbed is ok, but tooth count is still high for a combo blade. You might be ok for a while but once you see any little burn it's time to send that out for sharpening.

    You also can get your SawStop blade sharpened but it's a $45 blade. It might not be cost effective depending on the cost of sharpening services near you.

    Do you also pull your blade and clean it the pitch and resin buildup? CMT makes a good cleaner but some people use simple green.
    Ya know I haven't cleaned the stock one but will clean these going forward. I just ordered the glue line ripping blade you recommended, thanks!

    I actually had that blade in my cart from research but then decided I didn't want to change blades between rips and crosscut but you convinced me that when I'm settling in to do a large run (doing about a thousand rips this week) that it is worth the time. Also will cut back on jointer runs that will probably easily offset the time of swapping blades. Since it and the combo blades are both 10" of the same brand I might not have to adjust the brake between swaps making the switching even easier.
    Last edited by Stephen White; 12-01-2021 at 11:45 AM.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    I hear people saying that they don't want to change back and forth between cross cut and ripping blade because it takes too much time. I timed myself changing blades and it takes me less than a minute and a half to change blades. The cutting speed and lack of burning with a true ripping blade in hard maple is hard to beat. You'll spend more than a minute and a half cleaning up the burn marks made by a combination blade. I no longer use any combination blades on my saw at all.
    You are so right! I need to stop letting a little extra setup time drive decisions.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    Which lights are blinking? both? What's that code?
    Thanks for the prompt to look up codes. Next time I will check the code first before doing anything.

  15. #15
    Use a 24T rip blade and do it in a couple or three passes. A thin kerf on a lower powered machine.

    I'm totally with Lee, I also timed myself changing blades 1:43.

    Not to hijack the thread, but I have a question to you guys re: SawStop. I have several blades that even adjust all the way down, its not within the spec distance for the brake. Most are blades I've had sharpened several times.

    I'm using them anyway, my thinking is if tripped, it will only delay the stop time by a few milliseconds -- but, is this bad thinking? I've already had to bench a few blades and one dado set that have shoulders....

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