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Thread: Drill a small-diameter pilot hole, THEN a large-diameter finished hole? Or not?

  1. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    I don't think I'd use JB Weld for either application as it is a putty consistency and won't penetrate the wood to any degree. I use marine epoxy to wet out the wood and thicken it with various fillers when needed.
    I'm trying to use what I have on hand, or keep my methods as inexpensive and simple as possible. I take your point, but this YouTube link makes me think J-B Weld is sufficient for installing my aluminum anti-split brace.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    As to sleeving, I would coat the hole with epoxy and set the pins wet. Do a test to see if it will work for you. If you can get a proper press fit by drilling that would be preferable.
    I much appreciate this insight, Kevin, and will keep it in mind, but I'm afraid =O of setting these anchors in wet epoxy. I have very little experience with 2-part epoxies, but a healthy respect for their holding strength. I read somewhere that heat can be applied to the threaded posts via a soldering iron, and the heat should transfer to the anchors sufficiently to remove the anchors if need be. But Murphy's Law never sleeps, and it's possible that I will need to remove the anchors for maintenance or to relocate these bridges to better guitars one day.

    Fingers crossed that the 25/64" drill does the job without complications.
    Last edited by Tom Burgess; 11-29-2021 at 7:23 PM.

  2. #47
    I suppose if you can't get a drilled hole the right size you could sand down the anchors a bit.

    Epoxy is expensive but it has many applications in woodworking and a very long shelf life.

  3. #48
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    I start holes that need to be perfect in wood by first reversing the drill press. By reversing it to get the hole center started it will not bend the bit and follow the grain. Before I had a reversible drill press I kept some left hand bits around for the purpose.

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    I suppose if you can't get a drilled hole the right size you could sand down the anchors a bit.
    The downside here is that these inserts need the grip of the texturing since they do not get glued in and one has to be very careful not to overshoot since they can be expensive to replace. In some cases, that means buying a whole new bridge for the guitar because parts a la carté are not necessarily a thing.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #50
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    https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/

    This is the answer to drilling perfectly centered holes on a drill press. I use mine on my drill press and CNC Router but it can be used for a lot of tasks and its about as easy a method as you will find. Once you set the dot on the center of your hole from your chuck change to your drill bit you will never wonder if the hole will be in the right location.

    The diameter of the red dot is adjustable by turning the knurled collet.

    It's worth every penny!!!!
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 11-30-2021 at 12:55 PM.

  6. #51
    My method would be a little less complicated than some others.
    Make your own drill guide block from a piece of hardwood.
    Test drill, adjust, tweak or whatever you need to do on a sacrificial piece until you get the proper fit for the bridge. Once this is done, you can use the guide, clamped or double-stick taped to the body, to drill the holes without worry of wandering.

    Or you could just purchase a bridge drilling guide.
    Good Luck

  7. #52
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    If you use epoxy, use golf club head epoxy. It's available in small quantities. The good thing about it is that it breaks down at a lower heat than most other epoxies, since you're thinking about removing it in the future. It breaks down at a low heat so you can remove a golf club head from an epoxy shaft, without damaging the shaft (if you know what you're doing).

    When you need to remove the insert, set with such an epoxy, thread a bolt into the insert, and heat the bolt until the epoxy starts to bubble out. Then it will come right out.

  8. #53
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    I would suggest using a router. A jig will be needed to position the router correctly. Post that order of bit won't matter.

  9. #54
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    There are many good suggestions here. Many different approaches to achieving the same end result. Lots of great input!
    David

  10. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    https://lasercenteredgefinder.com/

    This is the answer to drilling perfectly centered holes on a drill press. I use mine on my drill press and CNC Router but it can be used for a lot of tasks and its about as easy a method as you will find. Once you set the dot on the center of your hole from your chuck change to your drill bit you will never wonder if the hole will be in the right location.

    The diameter of the red dot is adjustable by turning the knurled collet.

    It's worth every penny!!!!
    How does that work, Keith? Do you mount it in the drill press chuck and then set everything up? Then swap it out for the drill bit?

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    How does that work, Keith? Do you mount it in the drill press chuck and then set everything up? Then swap it out for the drill bit?

    Mike
    That’s the way I use the one I mentioned earlier, in the drill press and milling machine. For the drill press I just make sure the table is first adjusted to accommodate the bit, substitute the laser, position and clamp the work, then swap for the bit and drill.

    JKJ

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