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Thread: Taper leg on 4 sides using a taper jig, feeling really thick headed this morning

  1. #1
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    Taper leg on 4 sides using a taper jig, feeling really thick headed this morning

    My only advice for the younger guys, don't get old! Anyway. I want to taper all four side on a 1-3/4" square leg about the last 4-1/2" on the leg. Thought to only take it down to 1-1/2 so the angle won't be too steep. Mission/craftsman piece.

    Been a while since I used my jig. My bad memory tells me to set the foot width at the bottom to the 1-1/2 and then adjust so the cut begins where I want it to. Cut a side rotate until I get all four sides. My problem is my brain is thinking this will take off too much material at the bottom of the leg. My brain is telling me to take off 1/4" per side on two sides so cut to 1-5/8, the reset the jig to 1-1/2 and cut the final two sides.

    Thanks for letting me use your brain this morning.

    Brian
    Brian

  2. #2
    I set the jig once then use the wedge from the first cut to keep the stock at the proper angle.

  3. #3
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    I would draw the line you want on each side of the leg and then remove the wood on the disc sander, if you have a 12" or bigger. You're only taking off an average of 1/16" thick x 4-1/2" long, so by the time you make the cuts and then clean up the saw marks it would take longer, I think, than just to sand it.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    I set the jig once then use the wedge from the first cut to keep the stock at the proper angle.
    Leg is 47 in long so it will stay flat against the jig. Set it for 1-1/2 or 1-5/8?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachary Hoyt View Post
    I would draw the line you want on each side of the leg and then remove the wood on the disc sander, if you have a 12" or bigger. You're only taking off an average of 1/16" thick x 4-1/2" long, so by the time you make the cuts and then clean up the saw marks it would take longer, I think, than just to sand it.

    I don't think it is practical. Leg is 47" and this introduces potential error for me over fixed leg in the jig. thanks brian
    Brian

  6. #6
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    If you want to end up 1 1/2 square you need to remove 1/8 from each face, so 1 5/8.

    When I am unsure or confused in a situation like this (often!), I always take off less material than I think I should; easier to do two passes than remake a leg.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  7. #7
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    If my math is correct, you are taking 1/8th off each side. Might be easier to do with hand plane, but if want to use the taper jig, i would draw my 1 1/2 square on the bottom and then use those lines to align with the saw blade cut line. With the top 42.5 inches clamped, i would not be concerned about the tip being elevated 1/8 as it meets the blade. Restated, with this method, the jig is merely holding the leg stable. Your cuts mark is the square on the bottom of the leg, and the line 4 1/2 inches up to get the correct angle. Good luck
    Last edited by Patrick McCarthy; 11-27-2021 at 12:02 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    I don't think it is practical. Leg is 47" and this introduces potential error for me over fixed leg in the jig. thanks brian
    I agree relative to a disc sander. But it would be a good technique with a longer edge sander if one was available. I'd want a small jig/fixture to help hold things square when the two angled surfaces have to be toward the table.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    i think a 12" disc sander would be big enough to do the job accurately, as the actual area to be removed is only 4-1/2" long. This could be done without having to use the center of the disc, which is where the problem would occur. An edge sander sounds like it would be great but I don't know as I have never used one. I don't think a jig should be entirely necessary, all that I would do would be to draw a line on one side of each face, 1/8" in at the end and meeting the corner at 4-1/2" from the end. There would always be a flat surface to rest on the sander table. It would only take about 2 minutes a leg with 80 grit sandpaper. I use a similar method to flatten the peghead face of a glued-up neck blank on the disc sander and it's pretty quick and makes a nice flat surface.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin View Post
    If you want to end up 1 1/2 square you need to remove 1/8 from each face, so 1 5/8.

    When I am unsure or confused in a situation like this (often!), I always take off less material than I think I should; easier to do two passes than remake a leg.
    Left it alone for a few hours and have clarity. Set jig to take 1/8 off each side as I turn the piece. Thanks brian
    Brian

  11. #11
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    Definitely make a practice leg.

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