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Thread: Rebuilding powermatic 26 shaper

  1. #1

    Rebuilding powermatic 26 shaper

    I recently bought a powermatic shaper model 26 (1979)
    According to the guy I bought it from ( who was a woodworker) it belonged to his dad and was not used for 20 years.
    I tried it and it was running fine so I bought it for $400.
    The up/down mechanism was hard to move so I decided before putting it to use restore it and bring it back to shape ( cause its a shaper &#128515
    When opening up the quill assembly parts of the impller started to flake off. Parts of the oil reservoir was also worn indicating that these two pieces have been rubbing against each other without oil for a while causing them to wear out.
    There was not a single drop of oil in the quill assembly there was instead lots of gunk.


    So i have couple of options now.



    • Buy those two parts ( impeller 3324002, reservoir 3657001)

    I was not able to find these parts anywhere




    As crazy as options 3 sounds it might work. Here is what i have in mind.


    The bearings in this old style quill assembly are open and need oil, what if i change them to seal bearings so no need oiling them and instead of the impeller, just put a sleeve on the shaft to take its place (I have a metal lathe). Im thinking the sleeve will make sure the bearing doesn’t move out of its place.

    the existing (broken) impeller is very loose on the shaft, I am not sure if this is by design or it was worn out because of lack of oiling.
    I am also not sure of the material these are made from, they are (both impeller and reservoir) are as light as aluminum but looking at the broken piece I am not sure if its aluminum.(It could totally be I am just not experience enough to tell what it is used)


    Im gonna provide some pictures and the manual for my shaper. Any help is appreciated!!!

    manual:
    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/887.pdf
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Here is a video showing the impeller and the reservoir.
    hope it helps:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIx35Su0EJ4

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    I would assume the castings are just pot metal aka Zamac. I would switch to new sealed bearings but watch the rpm limits. you may have to use shielded.
    Bill D

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    It is possible the impeller is a loose fit by design. I have heard of ceiling fan bearing that use a loose ring to move oil around. If it spun at full rpm it would drown the bearings and cause them to wear faster.
    Bill D.

  5. #5
    Thanks for your reply.
    i think im gonna make a collar with a set screw to make sure the bearing doesn’t move and see what happens.
    I mean the whole thing is toast already how much worse its gonna get

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    Not sure I quite understand the geometry. is the impeller acting as a spacer between the bearings on both ends? If so just make a sleeve of the correct bore and a reasonable outer diameter to replace the impeller.
    I would expect one bearing is locked in place, probably the upper bearing. The other bearing has to be able to float back and forth a tiny bit as the shaft heats up.
    Bill D

    AKA a crush sleeve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    Another option would be to tap the casting and add lines to an external pump and sump if the bearings are in good shape. I wonder if anyone has 3D printed an impeller? 10,000 rpm is pretty high for a sealed ball bearing. Won't that melt the seals? Personally, I wouldn't put more money in a shaper that has a 1" max shaft. I'd part that one out if you can't find parts and right off the lesson. There is currently a model 26 cartridge and 3 spindles on eBay for $480 or best offer.

  8. #8
    I found these bearings that might work:


    https://www.123bearing.com/bearings-...-2Z-TVH-C3-FAG


    https://www.123bearing.com/bearings-...-2Z-TVH-C3-FAG

    they are not cheap but seems like they can do high speed.
    3D printing might work too ( it might melt too)
    here is the quill diagram.

    https://www.123bearing.com/bearings-...-2Z-TVH-C3-FAG


    https://www.123bearing.com/bearings-...-2Z-TVH-C3-FAG
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    There is another shaper close by that i can buy its a rockwell 3phase 3hp for $250.
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...4961925061126/
    but im thinking that one probably has old quill too, if i spend the $450 i almost have a new shaper.
    Last edited by Moosa esfahanian; 11-27-2021 at 10:42 PM.

  10. #10
    Another crazy idea i have is what if i buy a different quill ( not meant for model 26) and try to mount it somehow and that way maybe i could have a quill that accepts 1 1/4 and cheaper that $450? So crazy?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
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    325
    A shop I worked in had a green Powermatic 26 shaper with an oil bath bearing on the quill. Powermatic did a poor job designing that bearing. It would spew oil all over the floor. The shop owner was too cheap to get something that didn't spew oil. The oak floor around the shaper was always slippery. The employees decided to simply not oil the shaper. It ran for quite a while, then broke down. I had a machine shop put in regular high speed bearings.

    The upside was having a spare bucket of Mobil Velocite #6 spindle oil. It's great for oiling moving parts on machines, like saw trunnions. It doesn't seem to gum up and collect sawdust. I still use it, even though I quit working for cheap boss 30 years ago.

    The green 26 wouldn't take a 1 1/4" spindle. You can't run molder heads without a 1 1/4" spindle. A molder head with custom cutters is cheaper than stock solid body cutters, and they can be sharpened by hand.

  12. #12
    I have two older Powermatic model /6’s as well. One is green and one is current Powermatic gold. Both 5HP. I had no idea they used oil bath bearings. Is it just the older green ones with oil bath bearings or do the next gen gold ones use them as well? Mine seem to be operating ok. Where do you add oil or lube for the spindle bearings? Is there a line going to the spindle? What type of oil or lube is best to use?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
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    325
    The oil bath bearing that I used had a fill point at the bottom of the spindle, inside the cabinet.
    Powermatic suggested Mobil Velocite # 6 spindle oil. Old manuals at Vintage Machinery would be helpful. http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex...x?id=655&tab=3

  14. #14
    Im glad im not the only one thinking about replacing the bearings. Did the machine worked fine after? Bearings seal didnt melt?
    yes mine has the oil port exactly where you described.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
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    The new bearings worked fine. The machine shop understood what was needed, and put them in. I have no idea what they used. The machinist worked on a lot of industrial stuff, including a nuclear power plant.

    Shapers are faster than saws, but the speeds are not out of the ordinary. The bearings need to be rated for the application.

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