Need help restoring old Casadei EMA KS/1400 sliding table saw. Missing fence.

[Michael Schuch]

I need to turn some steel pins down for mounting a fence in my lathe. But I need to finish wiring the VFD for my lathe before I can do this.

This Casadei saw does not have any miter or T slots in the sliding table. I am pretty sure this is something that I will want.

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I found two options for adding a T slot in the sliding table. The narrower track (5/8" over all width) on the left is a standard T slot width and it is a little recessed from the table top without any spacers under it. I was only able to find this T track in 48" lengths so I would have to use two of these to cover the entire length of the table.

The second option is the "miter" dimensioned T track. It sits a little proud of the table so I would have to mill the brackets a bit for it to sit flush (which should not be too difficult of a project). The width of this miter T track is not the same width as the "metric" miter slot in the fixed table which was disappointing. I am thinking of going with the narrower track because it will make mounting the aluminum portion of the sliding table easier, be easier to make flush with the table top via some shims and be easier to integrate with the aluminum portion of the sliding table.

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My thought is to move the mounting holes in the aluminum portion of the sliding table over 5/8" of an inch. I would then clamp the aluminum to the mounting brackets and run the aluminum through the blade to clean up the nasty edge and make the aluminum near zero clearance. I could easily mill the dado hole in the aluminum deeper but I don't really think I would need to. That ugly rough edge on there currently bothers me! The other option would be to cut 5/8" off the other side of the aluminum and use the existing mounting holes.

Opinions?

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P.S. does anyone know how to rotate these pictures in the posts so they appear with the correct orientation? My pictures post fine on other sites.

[Michael Schuch]

The rip fence was way to wide. It was a 50" rip fence which stuck out 60 inches to the right of the blade because of the width of the fence itself. I decided to cut it down so it would fit better in my shop.

So I hacked 14 inches off of the rip fence.
Attachment 475601
After using the horizontal bandsaw to cut down the front fence rail I put in on the mill and milled the front of it so it looks nice and like a factory finished piece. The rear fence support I also chopped and I welded a plate over the end of it to make it look like a finished piece. I hade to drill and tap new holes for the auxiliary table supports and the front rail to rear fence support spacing rod. All of these were metric and I only had imperial taps so I had to order a set of metric taps. I wanted to use the factory hardware and mixing imperial hardware on a metric saw just seemed messy.

Attachment 475602
I had a left over can of PPG Pit bull "Vista Green" spray paint left over from the Powermatic 71 rebuild (you can see the PM71 in the background of the above picture). It matches the Casadei green paint quite well in my opinion. I am quite happy about having a matching paint so I can clean up some other areas of the saw in time. I painted the end cap of the fence rear support to test the color in the picture above. I will strip that off and lay down a good primer before putting a finish coat of the paint on.

Attachment 475603

[Tim Monkevich]

This is very cool to have stumbled on this thread as I am currently working on getting an ‘85 KS1400 up and running in my shop. I have similar woes in that I have the crosscut fence but none of the mounting hardware nor the stops. I may have to upgrade my account so I can see the pics of what you engineered. I ordered flip stops for a Grizzly slider and am hoping I can adapt those to the existing fence or worst case scenario wait until Grizzly has the matching fence back in stock and get one of those.

[Michael Schuch]

Hello Tim,

It would be nice to have a someone to compare notes with.

My current status is I have some steel rod to make some pegs to hold the fence in outrigger table holes but my lathe was acting up. Actually my South Bend 13" was squealing like a banshee. Luckily it was just the motor. I installed the new bearings in the motor last weekend and remounted the motor only to find the belts for the motor (in my lathe) are way too short which is what probably killed the bearings in the first place. So I have new belts a couple inches longer coming from Amazon which should be here on Thursday which will allow me to make some progress on the fence.

My current plan is to turn a couple pegs with a step in them so they don't fall through the holes and mill some flats in them for mounting the fence. I have a piece of aluminum extrusion for the fence but I might just laminate some Maple or Ipe for the fence instead of using the extrusion. I haven't quite decided and progress is going kind of slow due to other projects.

I do have a couple of very similar threads on some other well known forums oriented around rebuilding old machines. BUT if your main interest is in woodworking this is an excellent forum with a great group of very intelligent members who are great for bouncing ideas off of! The membership is definitely worth it to me and this is one of the few forums I appreciate enough to follow quite closely.

[andrew whicker]

Hi,

I'm looking at one these exact machines in my area... they keep reducing the price. The ad says it has over 50" of cross cut? Is that true?

Even though it's a "short stroke" slider that kind of cross cut solves my squaring issues. Did you find parts availability? How well built is the saw?


Thanks much!

[Jim Becker]

Hi,

I'm looking at one these exact machines in my area... they keep reducing the price. The ad says it has over 50" of cross cut? Is that true?

Even though it's a "short stroke" slider that kind of cross cut solves my squaring issues. Did you find parts availability? How well built is the saw?


Thanks much!

Short stroke has different values...some are shorter than others. I think I can crosscut about 54", give or take, on my SC3C with the wagon travel I have and it's a similar size to what the OP posted about