Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 28 of 28

Thread: Need help restoring old Casadei EMA KS/1400 sliding table saw. Missing fence.

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    If you want digital stops on the fence, you can either buy a Felder fence with them or buy the Felder fence without them and purchase Brian Lamb's digital stop retrofit for the Felder fence (Lamb Toolworks).
    Be aware: Just the fence itself, with shipping and all, will probably end up being close to $2K and STILL a likelihood that it could show up damaged. The "damaged" part being fault of UPS or FedEx, which will end up coming out of the customer's pocket, not Felder's. Just telling you what I see from the vendor's side.

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  2. #17
    I've sent lots to the US and nothing was damaged. I packed myself. Box in a box with Polyfoam between, all cardboard double wall. Pre made double wall boxes a table saw to cut all internal. Cut the cardboard, cut the polyfoam and hot glue gun to stick it on.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 11-26-2021 at 3:51 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronald Blue View Post
    Having no dog in this fight but ran across this saw that sold with numerous photos. If they help great, and if not well they were inexpensive....

    https://www.irsauctions.com/popups/p...593WH&id=18910
    Thank you! That has the best pictures of the original fence that I have found. Most all pictures that I have found have been auctions. That auction has more pictures than most... and that saw is very close to the vintage of my saw. I tried to post a lot of pictures of my saw in case someone comes across my post looking for information on a Casadei sliding table saw in the future.

    It looks like the metal dowels that hold the fence to the table on that saw are under the fence which would be much handier for moving the fence between the front and rear of the outrigger table. Due to the piece of 80/20 I have I am going to have to put my dowels behind the fence instead of under the fence.

    That auction also has pretty good pictures of the scoring blade and the motor driving it which I really wanted to see.
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 11-29-2021 at 9:55 PM.

  4. #19
    If I was starting from scratch, I'd take s look at what TigerStop has to offer. I've worked with them before and they are really nice on a slider.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    I've sent lots to the US and nothing was damaged. I packed myself. Box in a box with Polyfoam between, all cardboard double wall. Pre made double wall boxes a table saw to cut all internal. Cut the cardboard, cut the polyfoam and hot glue gun to stick it on.
    I think you are missing the sub text. I believe I am being told that a customer that is only interested in purchasing a fence is not worth their time and anyone that buys a $400 sliding table saw is not their target customer.

  6. #21
    not missing anything. without looking back post stated customer complaints on shipped stuff damaged. Thats even if you were the target audience makes no difference. I just stated logic.

    A big company cant ship stuff with out it getting damaged? We all use the same shipping companies and it works for some of us.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    not missing anything. without looking back post stated customer complaints on shipped stuff damaged. Thats even if you were the target audience makes no difference. I just stated logic.

    A big company cant ship stuff with out it getting damaged? We all use the same shipping companies and it works for some of us.
    I agree. If a big company "wanted to" ship stuff without it being damaged it would be no huge feat to do so.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,025
    Blog Entries
    7
    I don’t think that they think that way, I’ve only ever made small purchases with Felder and have always been treated well. Their accessories are excellent in my experience.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #24
    people in another country paid me money to do work. It was common sense to package it so it would get there unscathed and they would buy more.
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 11-30-2021 at 7:51 PM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    135
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    The original fence had T bolts that fit tightly in the bottom of the fence extrusion. Some of the T bolts had a spring or delrin set screw so they could be adjusted to a friction fit. That fit is necessary for the fence to repeat when the eccentric bushing is adjusted. Any looseness in the T will cause the fence to be off enough to make you crazy. If you are looking for a cheap fence and stop, a 60x60 extrusion with a Grizzly stop will work. I have had good luck buying extrusions from Framingtech as they will have odd sizes in the cut pile for a better price. The Grizzly stop is in the $100 range- or used to be before the world crashed.

    The picture of the cast piece is a quadrant. If you want to see how they work, check out the Video of Jack Forsberg's Wadkin PK. Quadrants were made for many old cast iron sliders but most were drilled specific to the machine so they are not easily swapped. I modified an old saw I have to use an eccentric bushing similar to your design and it works well with an Accurate Technologies ( Proscale people ) fence. Dave
    It took me a little while to digest but I appreciate the reply! :-)

    Instead of putting the pins under the extrusion I am thinking of putting them behind the extrusion and clamp them via T bolts in the back T slots of the extrusion instead of the bottom T slots. I surmised that the pins would have to be adjustable to account for spacing variations when adjusting the eccentric.

    I thought that cast iron piece was a miter gauge... nope, it is a "Quadrant", which I had never heard of before. I watched some videos, now that I know what it is, and I am pretty disappointed that there isn't an angle scale etched onto my cast iron saw top. But now that I know what a quadrant is it gives me all sorts of ideas. The videos showed single piece and two piece quadrants. Although the two piece would be nice to have is the second piece really used that often? I suppose it just depends on how you work.

    I get the impression that I will be setting my quadrant angles with the electronic protractor at first and will probably run with that until something more elaborate seems like it is needed.

    Thank you for the information!
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 12-02-2021 at 7:52 PM.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    135
    My EMA sliding saw has one of the nicest table saw ripping fences I have ever seen short of an auto positioning fence. The fence itself weighs over 50lbs (in my estimate) and it locks tight with absolutely no flex or movement in the fence when locked. There is a rack and pinion system on the fence so it can be easily positioned fast and accurately by turning a handle.

    My problem is that it is 60" wide! I have a Powermatic 65 cabinet saw with an original 60" two tube front and rear locking fence and a Powermatic 71 cabinet saw with an even wider industrial Biesemeyer fence. Both of them wear 30 inch fences (a Vega and a Shop Fox) because I couldn't bear cutting down the original rails on the nice fences (I only paid a couple bucks for the two 30" fences used).

    I am sick at the thought of cutting down the 3" x 3" solid steel rack-n-pinion rail on the slider. But I know it has to be done. My shop is 20' wide and the slider is about 14' wide with the outrigger on and the 60" fence. The fence rail is 60" wide and I will have to cut 20" off of it making the rail 40" wide so the fence can register out to 30". The front of the fence is 10" wide hence a 40" rail for a 30" cut.

    I just need someone to hold my hand, wipe away my tears and reassure me everything will be OK while I am making the cut!

    I had considered mating the PM65 to the slider to justify the 60" fence on the slider to also function as the fence for the PM65 but it just doesn't work when I try to lay everything out and join the two table saws together. I will be keeping the PM65 10" cabinet saw for dados and such then selling the PM71 12" cabinet saw. I have read that most slider owners also keep a cabinet saw around for things like dados... is this true?
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 01-13-2022 at 12:49 AM.

  12. #27
    Clearly the answer is a bigger shop.

    I would definitely keep one of the cabinet saws if possible.

    Go ahead and cut the fence if you must. Keep the offcut in case you move - you can probably rejoin the sections with a plug.

    Did you get the crosscut fence sorted?

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    135
    I am moving kind of slow on the project. I just finished the mobile base for the saw so I can do some rearranging of my shop and make everything fit together... which is why I have come to the conclusion that I need to shorten the rip fence.

    Once I have the saw and everything else in their new places I will start work on the outrigger fence. I found that Wixley makes a nice single axis DRO for table saw fences that will read in fractions and is very reasonably priced. I did not realize that Wixley made a two piece unit with the measuring head and display head separate which I think will work very well for my need and I will design the outrigger fence around the Wixley DRO.

    Before I found the Wixley 2 piece DRO I was considering laminating several pieces of IPE together to make the fence so I could put the measuring scale at an angle and imbed a T track for the stops. I hadn't sold myself on this yet and I think the Wixley route will work better. Their website is not very easy to find stuff on but now that I found the 2 piece unit it has started my brain turning. My current thinking is to use the piece of aluminum extrusion I have and fabricate my own stops.

    Good thought on saving the off cut for possible later use. I will probably stow the extra pieces inside the cabinet of the saw so they don't get lost. The fence rail is actually made up of 3 bars of steel about 3" tall and 1" thick bolted together. I can see rejoining the off cut pretty easily do to this construction. I have a hard time envisioning moving. When I bought the place 19 years ago I bought the 40' x 40' shop with a house and some other junk in front of it, never intending to move again (I know, famous last words!). The shop is split down the center so I have a 20' x 40' wood shop and a 20' x 40' machine shop.

    PICT4079.jpg

    P.S. I VERY RARELY have a problem with keeping a machine, parting with them is the painful part. I will keep the 10" PM65 because it is more practical even through the 12" PM71 has much more sentimental value.
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 01-13-2022 at 4:58 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •