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Thread: Is this dado ok with a SawStop?

  1. #1

    Is this dado ok with a SawStop?

    The one on the left is an Amana, the right is a Forrest. I’m wondering is those are shoulders in the Amana, one does that mean I shouldn’t use it?

    B03D5787-AAF3-446F-8D87-8E1C2AB396A8.jpg

  2. #2
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    According to Sawstop full size chippers shouldn't be used due to the excess weight. Not exactly sure what constitutes a full size chipper but the one on the left looks like one. I went for a Dewalt set as it was listed as a compatible. You can see the chippers and how they compare to the Amana. Maybe contact Amana

    https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW7670.../dp/B0002ZU6X4

  3. #3
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    The sawstop will slam the “blade” down under the table in an instant. Why the issue of weight is that SS wants to stop the bade too. But if the blade disappeared fast enough why would it even need to stop? If you get a good answer let us know.

  4. #4
    I took another look and the outside blades have shoulders, too (I never noticed). That combined with the blade type chippers, it should not be compatible. I’ve posted an email inquiry to SS, but I’m confident the answer is no.

    Interestingly, in the questions section on InfinityTool’s website, they say they have used it in their SS and it’s worked fine.

    I wonder if that means the brake has tripped, I kinda doubt it.

  5. #5
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    Sawstop's don't retract the blade; they drive a cartridge into the blade to stop it.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    Sawstop's don't retract the blade; they drive a cartridge into the blade to stop it.
    Yes they do retract the blade.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    Sawstop's don't retract the blade; they drive a cartridge into the blade to stop it.

    Go to 2:15 into this video. Has a 19000fps camera showing how it works. Blade break and drops into the table.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYLAi4jwXcs

  8. #8
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    It's the block of aluminum slamming into the blade that stops the rotation (in I think 3-5 milliseconds), absorbs the energy of rotation so you don't need to double the structure of the saw or realign after a brake event, and pivoting about the block is what pulls the blade under the table.

    The speed is critical so it doesn't stop or drop the blade just after cutting off your fingers. The rotating mass of the blade, particularly the part farther from the center (having higher moment of inertia) has a lot of kinetic energy, which has to go somewhere very quickly as the blade stops. Too much mass means it's harder to find a safe place to put the energy, and the blade may not stop quickly enough.

  9. #9
    The only time I have tripped the brake on my PCS was with a Freud 208 dado stack, 3/4 wide. The blade certainly dropped and the mechanism had to be reset before the blade was above the table again (a normal 10 inch blade). The cartridge propels the aluminum block into the blade with a spring but the saw also retracts the blade. I would not have wanted it to stop any slower. I got six stitches and the bone in the tip of one finger was broken. I also believe it is a kinetic energy thing. There is substantial mass in a dado stack, especially a 3/4 wide one.

  10. #10
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    The blade drops but I wonder why the blade has to be stopped? If the the mechanism that drops the blade were fast enough stopping the blade is redundant and expensive. Perhaps it is not fast enough which is probably why. Just speculating.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    The blade drops but I wonder why the blade has to be stopped? If the the mechanism that drops the blade were fast enough stopping the blade is redundant and expensive. Perhaps it is not fast enough which is probably why. Just speculating.
    If you watch the video I posted above, the slow motion portion of the video shows the break stops the blade before it has a chance to drop. Could be fractions of a second but that is potentially a deeper injury. Also, yes, the brake and drop is redundancy, butt I say double protection. While it can expensive, I'll take the 10 cent band aid over a potentially deeper cut that requires medical attention.

  12. #12
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    I believe another reason SS recommends not using dado sets with full chippers is to avoid any damage to the saw beyond the cartridge and blade. As Alan Mentioned, the energy stored in the blade has to be transferred to the saw to stop and retract the blade. The heavier the blade, the more energy has to be absorbed by the saw and the greater the likelihood that the arbor or the frame supporting the brake cartridge could be damaged. Think about catching a baseball moving at 60 mph. Now think about catching a bowling ball moving at 60 mph. Which one is more likely to damage you?

    I believe this is a secondary consideration to the safety aspects, but a factor nonetheless.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    The sawstop will slam the “blade” down under the table in an instant. Why the issue of weight is that SS wants to stop the bade too. But if the blade disappeared fast enough why would it even need to stop? If you get a good answer let us know.
    Hi Bernie,
    The reaction force from stopping the blade is what drives the blade rapidly below the table. The deceleration of the blade applies a force to the arbor and trunnion. The saw uses that force to effect the retraction. If you tried to generate that same force with some engineered active system as Felder has done, you would learn that the mechanism is huge and expensive.

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