Originally Posted by
John TenEyck
You are right. The OP didn't ask if tearout would be an issue doing the profile cuts on the router table; he asked which was the better option, router table or handheld. I said handheld and gave a reason why - tearout. If you've done much routing on the router table you will know about tearout when the grain is running the wrong way. There's just no way to avoid it on some of the edges from a group of doors if you always route right to left. You can try to minimize the problem by taking small cuts but in some cases tearout will happen anyway ruining the door.
Your reference of the FWW article explains when it's possible to manually climb cut safely on the router table - when the workpiece is heavy, either of it's own accord or when cradled in a massive jig. This helps resist the force of the router bit that wants to shoot it out of your hands, left to right. It's a poor man's power feeder.
When you climb cut with the router handheld it can't shoot out the workpiece if it's clamped down. You, plus the mass of the router are acting as the power feeder to resist the tendency of the bit to run along the edge of the workpiece. I find one hand operation safe with a palm router and small diameter bit and the workpiece held down on a router mat to be safe but that's just me.
I think I've explained it the best I can. Do whatever you feel safe doing.
John