Widening a groove

[Eric Rathhaus]

Hi - I'm finishing the tool tray for my bench, which has tongue and groove assembly on three sides. When I try to dry fit it, the tongue doesn't seat properly. Upon examination it appears that part of the tongue isn't lining up perfectly with the groove. The tongue is already pretty thin so that I don't want to remove material from the tongue. I tried moving in the fence on my plow plane just a bit in an attempt to widen the groove slightly where there's the seating problem. But I couldn't get it to work. The metal gate kept slipping into the groove so that I couldn't take off any wood. Any suggestions on another way to tackle this problem or another method for using the plow plane to widen the groove? N.B. I first tried using the next largest iron with no success, and I really only want to widen the groove on one side.

Thanks.

Eric

[Stephen Rosenthal]

This is a perfect example of a tool that’s rarely needed, but when you need it you REALLY need it. I’m referring to the LN or Stanley 98 & 99 side rabbet planes. Stanley made another version (#79) and LV makes a version similar to the #79. I suppose there are other less precise methods, but these are the de facto go-to tools for your dilemma. I’ve got the LNs, which are delightful to use but I believe no longer being produced, but all of the above appear quite often on the used market and the LV version is still available.

[Jack Frederick]

I just finished fabricating laying some replacement VGF t&g flooring that had to tie in to old existing flooring. In the few instances where necessary the LN 98 & 99 side rabbit planes were invaluable. Stephen’s first sentence tells the story, but he could have bold faced the REALLY. I’ve had the pair for years and have used them occasionally, but they made a difficult job quite simple and I doubt I would have some up with as good a result without them.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 pm what Stephen says about side rabbets.

Here is an old post with someone making their own > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....e-rabbet-plane

Whether you make one or end up purchasing these they are handy to have:

Side by Side.jpg

Here is an old post > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?116419 < with more information on side rabbets (and other planes). The side rabbets are in the 18th post if you preferences are set to viewing posts in chronological order.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Is it a rabbet or a groove? A rabbet can be widend with the planes mentioned above or a shoulder plane, a card scraper, or a router plane. For a groove, where you only want to remove material from one side, I would likely just scribe it and work down the length with a wide chisel.

[Warren Mickley]

We usually just narrow the tongue, but since you don’t want to do that, here is another way.

Set your marking gauge to where you want the edge of the groove to be, maybe 1/32 from the old edge, and score a line. Then put a 1” chisel right in the score line and cut straight in. You might be able to cut a single ribbon the length of the groove.

[Derek Cohen]

The side rebate planes are my go-to, however another way - when there is a smidgeon to remove and a chisel, as Warren suggests, is too much material - is to use a Japanese cutting/knife gauge or a sharp wheel gauge. Set one to take a fine slither off the one side of the groove. Do this in several passes, not one. Light to start and progressively heavier strokes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

We usually just narrow the tongue, but since you don’t want to do that, here is another way.

Set your marking gauge to where you want the edge of the groove to be, maybe 1/32 from the old edge, and score a line. Then put a 1” chisel right in the score line and cut straight in. You might be able to cut a single ribbon the length of the groove.

The side rebate planes are my go-to, however another way - when there is a smidgeon to remove and a chisel, as Warren suggests, is too much material - is to use a Japanese cutting/knife gauge or a sharp wheel gauge. Set one to take a fine slither off the one side of the groove. Do this in several passes, not one. Light to start and progressively heavier strokes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Some folks have steady enough hands to be wood surgeons.

Mine are steady enough to be a wood butcher.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Agree with others on side rabbet plane or chisel.

Woodcraft sells a side rabbet plane for $89 if you prefer to buy "new". I own one and it works fine.
LV also has a nice one for $146, but it's out of stock until February.
And I see a Stanley 98 on the auction site for $65.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Thanks, everyone. I looked around and found a record side rabbet plane with a depth stop. I'll let you know if it works out.

[Tom M King]

Should work fine. I sharpen such small cutters on the sides of the stones, so as not to put wear on a small part of the face. Just might save an otherwise extra flattening. I just sit the stones up on edge. Of course, if you're using some sort of jig, that won't work the best.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Did I mention that the groove is 5 1/2 ft long? That's why I'm opting to use a plane instead of a chisel.

[Jim Koepke]

Did I mention that the groove is 5 1/2 ft long? That's why I'm opting to use a plane instead of a chisel.

You will likely find the side rabbet a great addition to your tool box.

jtk

[Luke Dupont]

We usually just narrow the tongue, but since you don’t want to do that, here is another way.

Set your marking gauge to where you want the edge of the groove to be, maybe 1/32 from the old edge, and score a line. Then put a 1” chisel right in the score line and cut straight in. You might be able to cut a single ribbon the length of the groove.

This is exactly what I would do too. Simple and effective.

[Richard Verwoest]

I know I'm late to this party....but....you could fill the grove with a sacrificial strip, re-cut the grove, then remove whatever is left of the strip.

Richard