Mudroom locker install - Out of plumb wall?

[Matt Day]

I’m renovating our mudroom and installing cabinets and lockers. The first section of the install is the main piece, a floor to ceiling set of lockers. The bottom 2’ or so will be a bench with shoe storage below, and above that will be about 6’ of locker, then above that about 2’ of cabinets.
Problem is, the wall that these will be on is out of plum, with the top being out about about 3/4”. So if I level the bottom and build up from there, there will be about a 3/4” gap at the top and the side is exposed.

I know I could put a trim strip to cover it - is that what’s usually done in these situations?

Suggestions?

[Paul F Franklin]

You could extend the side of the cabinet and locker an inch or so past the back, and then scribe that strip to the wall, cutting away the excess so the side meets the wall cleanly. I usually do that on built-ins. Or, as you say, you could apply a molding or trim piece to cover the gap. I think the scribe strip method gives a cleaner look.

[Matt Day]

I was going to say that would be a lot of scribing, but you were saying just on that one exposed edge piece. That makes sense, I like it. Thanks for the tip!

[Jim Becker]

You have the right idea with a trim piece that's scribed, but I'd mount it on the side of the cabinet if it's frameless or build it into a face frame if it's that configuration. It takes a bit of fitting, but the end should justify the means. Even in the new construction when I did the built-ins for the addition in our previous property, I had to do this scribing to fit to the walls..even if drywall is "plumb", it's not flat because of taping and mud work.

[Matt Day]

Jim, I think I’m going to make that side of the cabinet a little long and scribe the actually cabinet box, instead of scribing trim. I’ll probably make scribe a template then transfer to the cabinet.

[mark mcfarlane]

Jim, I think I’m going to make that side of the cabinet a little long and scribe the actually cabinet box, instead of scribing trim. I’ll probably make scribe a template then transfer to the cabinet.

That's my approach. One fairly easy way to do the scribe line is with a compass. Set the width of the compass to your deepest wall depression than drag it up the wall with the pencil on the cabinet. I've also used a pencil with a small block of wood between the pencil and the wall to get the right offset, or for small offsets just drag the pencil flat against the wall. If your doing painted cabinets you only need to get close enough for caulking to fill the remaining gap, maybe 3/16"

I've never witnessed a vertical, flat wall.

I'm in the middle of a remodel and have been 'fixing' the walls after the crew goes home for the day. Kerfs & blocks to pull 2*4's straight, chisels and hand planes to get horizontal blocking level with studs,... It appears impossible to find a straight 12' 2*4.