Building cabinets with a built in mini fridge

[Donald G. Burns]

We ran into a problem with a mini frig we had built into an outdoor kitchen. The frig came with an overly large power plug with a ground fault breaker in it. The frig opening was made in a stone counter with the outlet behind the frig and, of course, the plug prevented the frig from fitting into the opening as deep as we wanted. The solution was cutting the plug off and using a new 90 deg plug plus adding a ground fault breaker to the circuit. So don't forget the location of the power outlet and power cord connections are important too.

[Jared Sankovich]

I just did a island that has a kitchenaid double drawer paneled fridge in the center. 24.5" may have worked I went with 25" to ensure there were no issues. Irritatingly the specs call for 24" with 3/4" panels, but that only works with overlay. If this had been a std lower I'd have been hacking into drywall to get it to fit.

Actually now that I'm thinking about the drawings provided with the fridge it shows 24" from the rear of the toe kick to the wall as the required depth. Fortunately I had it to take measurements directly.

[Kevin Jenness]

I agree with you in principle.

Two things though.
1. Some designers don’t have a clue about how make things work, just pretty. Or trendy. They’ll draw or dream up all kinds of stuff.
2. Many a homeowner or designer has seen a picture and asked it to be copied with none of the parties having a clue about what materials or appliances were used to achieve the look. Often times they want the look copied on a small budget and or with unrealistic modifications.

I once had a designer from a worldwide kitchen firm look incredulous when we told her she could not have a subzero refrigerator toekick recessed on the side. She’d drawn it , in 3D no less.

While I applaud your get it done attitude , I don’t like that we sometimes facilitate bad habits for the industry in the name of pleasing the customer and the quick buck. Lots of businesses tell customers “that’s how it is - and it ain’t like the picture or what you asked for “

My bottom line on this issue is if you want the look of a built-in or integrated appliance - you buy a built in appliance. Too many self professed clever people think they can save a buck or find a better way with their awesome cabinet guy.

Believe me, the projects I'm dealing with are not about saving money. I am at the bottom of the chain building something that has been designed and signed off on after plenty of discussion between the designer and shop and/or project manager. Oftentimes the designs are beyond impractical to the point of ridiculous, like the vanities I recently built that were spaced one inch off the end walls. Why? The designer has a vision and a client willing to pay for it. I have to accept that I am participating in building a piece of sculpture that has toilets in it- and built-in appliances. Having the gear in hand and all the specs helps make that happen as smoothly as possible.

[andrew whicker]

Good responses! Thanks much.

He bought the fridge. I have specs. Interesting to note the actual built in vs marketed built in. I told him it won't have a toe kick (this fridge has a flush grill). I think that's okay in this instance. It's in the corner where you wouldn't be hanging out too often. BTW, to get the "proper" fridge you're talking about the price doubles, so I'm not necessarily against the customer on this one. (from what I saw online). Everyone has a budget. I'm agnostic on that issue. I'm still building my customer base and skill sets. Hopefully every job gets me closer to only doing the really nice stuff (furniture and cabinets).

What do you guys do above the fridge on 42" countertops? I am going to put in a short drawer (and the fridge on the floor). Do you install it on top of the cabinet bottom (giving it a toe kick)? I think that might be a bit goofy looking.

I'm also getting a countertop wrapped with stainless steel and when I went to cut my 3/4 bb sheet last night I realized it had a huge bow in it across the width (3/8 on one side, 1/2 on the other!) so now for another drive down to slc.

I'm going to see if the sheet metal vendor can use mdf instead to ensure flatness.

[Rick Potter]

For future reference.

One other problem with refers is that some doors open flush to the refer cabinet, and some don't. I found out the hard way that when you inset a refer completely, the door won't clear the cabinet if it is the wrong type.