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Thread: Mcgiver heavy plumbing repair

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    My dad used to have a roll of pipe wrap tape from the gas company. It is what is used to wrap buried gas pipes. Heavy rubber tape about 2" wide, sticky on one side, had to peel off wax paper then wrap it tight and overlap it like electrical tape.
    Bill D
    When I saw Warren's pic, gas pipe repair 'tape' came to my mind too...

    What about a rubber sewer pipe connector with clamps (as suggested above)-- and pick up a tube of 3M 5200 Marine sealant--- split the connector down the middle, goop everything with the 5200 and cinch up the clamps...

    In fact, every boater I know says to DO NOT USE 5200 if you ever expect to remove it! You could probably just goop some of it around that hole and be done
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  2. #32
    talking to a friend about other stuff I sent him the photo. He is a tech guy and we talked and this and that and then came back to the rubber thing again, I said what about cut off right off at the copper where the hole is then slip the rubber things one over and a piece of 3" abs in then into a 3" abs 22.5 degree. That would match what is there and id removed all the copper above. Its just temp anyway and likely that would be faster than any other repair and easier. I said do you think the rubber will seal well enough on that rough surface and he said yes. We talked about some sort of sealer as well. I think if sizes match up that would be easiest.

  3. #33
    Warren,sounds like you’re talking about a Fernco fix. They have a good reputation among the plumbers around here.
    Last edited by Mel Fulks; 11-09-2021 at 1:31 AM.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,640
    That hole doesnt look natural.

    That isnt the prettiest spot. But a fernco coupling as others have mentioned may work. You can get a product like this
    https://www.jdindustrialsupply.com/quikcooper.html

    Mix it up and form around the hole then take a fernco sliced open wrap it around the joint and tighten.

    If you can solder you can either chip out the lead and oakum and redo the whole thing using a prduct called plastiseal on top of oakum. Or you can gingerly heat up the copper and pull it out of the copper fitting and replace piece with a hole in it.

  5. #35
    I cut it apart in a few stages last night. This was my last idea. After doing this I went on you tube and bounced around till I found a guy who was changing out a clean out, different than my set up but if the dimensions are same then I want to get that. Maybe someone above talked about the ferncos with the stainelss straps each end that is what I had., Maybe someone above said donout and I thought it was the same. WHat the You tube guy did was to drill all the led wiht a quarter inch drill, then pry it and break it apart. Then he pulled out all the rope stuff and put in a thing called a Fernco donout then he put his clean out into that and the middle part unscrewed. I think that that same donout is what I really need to do this property that is remove the heavy bottom part that had the DWW 3 stamp in it. Had emailed a place yesterday that did not respond but im thinking that is the part i need I wonder if this is all standard size stuff and id want to know that before I cut what I did here apart.

    Will try and look up the part and get a number. I wonder if this part is the same for the clean out there and if so that should be replaced as well.

    P1600612A.jpg

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,001
    DWW probably reads DWV. for drain waste vent. I imagine the "#3" means it is 3" cast iron pipe. When I had to do this in a trench to add a cleanout I used a wire brush on a angle grinder to get a smooth surface. Then I brushed on a heavy coat of primer paint to fill little rust pits. Just in case.
    Bill D

    PS it was. hard to slip over one end so I put a cherne plug inside the fernco at that end and inflated it. Let it sit for 30 minutes then quickly deflated and installed it before it shrunk back down. Worked nice and easy.
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 11-12-2021 at 10:38 PM.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Westminster BC
    Posts
    3,011
    Looks like you went from Mcgiver to Master Plumber. Well done

  8. #38
    Ive just never seen this before so went with the repair idea. What I did there is not right but three carpenters said it will work fine. ILl still do the donout thing and someone above I think mentioned it and I was just thinking the fernco stainless.

    After I did that last night then went on the fish net took several clics of the ones on the side to find a guy replacing a clean out so the front of this if this will take a Fernco he had it apart and as soon as I saw it I thought yeah that is now its done. Im slow first time doing things but I get there., Rebuilt two roofs, old guy said you are taking too long, only out of care. I finished one in December lucky for global warming that year 11 or 12 years ago.

  9. #39
    did a light clean out, then got the top fitting out, then figured better do the same to the bottom same time hesitant more work,. In the process broke through the top of the clean out stem and its just as well I started that second adventure. Broke enough drill bits and the 7" ones were good to have more reach around that long stem part on the clean out. WIll clean it today maybe put Phosphoric acid on it first once cleaned well then paint or primer and paint.

    3.JPG4.JPG

  10. #40
    Original post said "copper," while pictures are of cast iron.

  11. #41
    whole home is copper.

    Big pipe going through the wall is cast Fittings in that case were copper and that rope stuff hammered in and a tons of lead on top.

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