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Thread: Mcgiver heavy plumbing repair

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ada, Oklahoma
    Posts
    449
    For a quick less messy "temporary fix" I would find some heavy rubber sheet and wrap around the pipe and use hose clamps to hold it in place. What is the diameter of this pipe and how large of a hole are you patching?

  2. #17
    I will strip it clean when i can and then it will show or I likely have a photo before my crash and burn repair thanks

  3. #18
    wont let me post on my post so try again

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  4. #19
    [QUOTE=Warren Lake;3153123]wont let me post on my post so try again
    The computer thinks that green thing is an artillery shell.]

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    N CA
    Posts
    1,290
    You can get a ferrule, a bead on the end of a pvc fitting Taht will fit into the bell end of the cast fitting. You will need either brown oakum or the white. Wrap it and make a couple blunt yarning “iron” out of some wood if you don’t have the original irons. Pack it tight. Than as Bill said, you likely don’t have a lead pot so get some lead wool and pack it into the joint. You will notice a negative bead on the hub of the CI fitting. Pack that lead so it can bite into the bead. The waste water will saturate the oakum, causing it to swell and taht is what makes the joint.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,113
    I would use a slide-hammer, with a hook, and pull the parts pushed in back out into place, as good as you can. If you can get the parts fairly close together, it would be fairly easy, and plenty strong enough, to solder some thinner copper to the outside of it. That would be a permanent repair, until something else hits it.

  7. #22
    I dont see any repair that takes some time now happening. Jack you know this stuff inside and out and Tom know that makes sense. If fiberglass and epoxy stick then that is the ticket for now even for a few months then a better repair. In time hook up to sewers. I get the rubber repair as well and maybe one of the large fittings could be sliced cut turned to the back and two clamps then maybe it would still leak a bit. Not looking at it tonight but will tomorrow. Jack if you were not 3000 miles away id try and hire you. Drove to california once. Then up the coast san fran then back then vegas then grand canyon spent three weeks or so in LA. It was excellent.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Westminster BC
    Posts
    3,026
    Since it looks like you have done a good job of cleaning it and it's a drain so no no pressure a epoxy and glass repair should last a long time or at least until you do whatever you did to damage it.

  9. #24
    doug the pipe rusted out on its own, I thought copper didnt rust? guess the stuff going through was enough that over time of 60 years it is now took its toll the hole there was a bit smaller of course but that is irrelevant I think, toms idea to pull some back if I can is likely smart as its more support for whatever goes on. I dont have the time to do it right, too many directions and one one major thing is done taking big time for my parents then ill get my time back. So for now it has to be quick and easy

    I would have been fine but the Jb Weld I used from CTC failed. The two mix one tube thing was small and did not blend well the stuff never hardened rock hard and felt rubbery even a month later., weather some water wicked in or I dont know I dried it all with a heat gun and thought it was fine. Im not sure what best to clean it with once all stripped again. maybe Ik should have also scratc sanded it with 80 grit or coasere to help get more tooth. Ill try again after I do an epoxy test with this stuff. The marine grade stuff worked great. I used on on facia stuff butted together with that and lamelloes and it worked excellent even ten years later hard to find the joints of the mostly towards 16 foot long boards.

    Dan clearly knows what this is exactly he had way more info than the carpenter who said its rope and that is it. Once the wire wheel hit it all it was clear there was led there, me not knowing there was rope below that but makes total sense what Dan said. Never fails there are 10 guys with different back grounds.

    I talked to a battery place today top brand time for a new one one car. They said I think the 78 frame will fit and asked me. I said that is why I called you. So now up to me tell them if I can up the size as I usually do to the frame size i used in the truck 800 CCA but maybe too large. Likely some battery expert guys here or I could maybe call Elon, or maybe not. Will take the one out of the truck and try it first. All good. Asked the expert twice if 78 series frames only come with side and top mount or you can get side mount only both times not answered.

    Thanks every one for taking the time.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,039
    My dad used to have a roll of pipe wrap tape from the gas company. It is what is used to wrap buried gas pipes. Heavy rubber tape about 2" wide, sticky on one side, had to peel off wax paper then wrap it tight and overlap it like electrical tape.
    Bill D

  11. #26
    thats an interesting idea I likely have Grace ice and water shield left from past roof rebuild. that stuff at least when warm was so sticky it was hard to work with other brands like the Certainteed easier to work with. they aslo had a small facia wrap one that was narrow. If it was a rubber repair and that went on before say the heavy rubber with a slice in the back and the band clmpa that woud take it up a level but also that area being recessed stuff woud collect in the recessed area I could cut a strip to wide wrap it number of times and come up proud of the raised wider pipe then wrap that ice and water then put the rubber on with the bands. Will entertain that as well. Sometimes materials from another trade solve things, seen that enough and why i want to know about many things.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,039
    I would put good electrical tape over the hole to seal it for a few days. get everything nice and dry so the next step will stick. wrap it in fibreglass drywall tape so the hole is bridged over. Maybe wrap some metal wire around the tape to hold it down. Then saturate the tape with roofing tar or liquid rubber sealing compound as sold on tv.
    I do not think a propane torch will have enough heat to solder that big a mass. You would need a real blow torch(no longer made) or large weed burner type torch. I doubt if you own a lead melting pot and a ladle. These all pose a good risk of burning your house down that night after you put out any little smoldering spots.
    Bill D
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 11-06-2021 at 1:27 AM.

  13. #28
    okay I will digest that as well but likely that would void the next step of doing it right as cleaning that up would be a nightmare. Okay if third step which would be hooking up to sewers. Lot of homes flooded in this town where sewers backed up. Us old folks on septics were not affected. I think some homes on the main street have flooded more than once.

    Yes I dont have any heat stuff for that I knew that already and that and knowing I dont have time now took out any want to try and learn how this is all done right. I need to think about all that, the stuff on there now looks like its fine with coming off at least the bit I scraped at with a putty knife. If i go back to the wire wheel again ill use something to scratch it as the wire wheel just leaves it too polished and smooth

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    4,567
    For a pipe repair, the name I always hear (and have used myself both at work and residentially) is Fernco. It’s a rubber wrap surrounded by a stainless clamp. Larger ones are rigid and come in two pieces with bolts and nuts to clamp it over the rubber.
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  15. #30
    I have some of those rubber things in my kit of parts but dont see adapting them Carpenter called back said he was thinking about it and copper over like tom. I told him I used Geocell on my eves and that stuff sealed like crazy and can even be put on when its wet

    Dan if you are still lurking how would you go about bringing plastic to this? If i cut the copper above all away is there some level there that the ABS stuff fits into this. Carpenter thinks he has a torch that will do the bottom as well. I dont know what he has. There are no big box fittings that say replace the part with the rope and led but there must be some level there where abs can tap into it.

    thanks

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