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Thread: Mcgiver heavy plumbing repair

  1. #1

    Mcgiver heavy plumbing repair

    In my 61 bungalow the main pipe goes out to the septic has a hole near the bottom. Its copper all of this and heavy then goes into a massive pipe through the wall. Friend said the pipe will be sealed with Rope. Its not it looks to be lead. I cant this type of plumbing stuff at Box stores and same friend said for now just use Epoxy and repair it temp. I got JB weld and some fiberglass around here and did a repair. The JB weld was in a dual tube and it was the worst one ive ever used, push it nothing comes out one side, use it again and tons out one side little out the other, pop sound air comes out and and.

    I had tried to find two tubes stuff as I trust myself to mix, most dual things ive used worked pretty well, Looked for Epoxy could not find it this stuff did not say epoxy on the package.

    The JB never cured properly its rubbery in some spots. I see a slow leak starting so will rip it off clean and start again.

    Should I not be able to get epoxy and maybe some filler in it I have that talc and glass ball stuff and use my fiberglass matt not the woven stuff? Other things the focus now. I figure the copper you clean it really well with alcohol or lac reducer and as long as the epoxy sets should get a good repair for some time. the JB stayed like Rubber in part of this hole size is about 1/2" x 1/2" once I pushed and mangled it larger to get to thick material.

  2. #2
    Why not use a Sawzall, cut out the section of damaged pipe and replace it with PVC. You could use "NoHub bands, or a Fenner coupling to connect the pipes together. The "NoHub" bands are my first choice. Cut your repair piece about 1/4" shorter than the distance between the pipe ends. Take couplings, loosen bands and slip on repair piece. Slide bands back from ends. Turn open end of NoHub bands back onto repair piece. Similar to turning a sock inside out. Slide repair piece into place, turn coupling so they engage old pipe. Slip bands into place and tighten. Go have a "cold one" as you deserve it. Call a plumber, and that most likely what they will do
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 11-04-2021 at 8:34 PM.

  3. #3
    its been thought about but more work needs to be done above. Just don't want more stuff at the moment too many directions already Prefer a half hour temp repair to hours of work. I do most of my own work, roof rebuilds and all. I can hire when my time frees up re do it all Ive need be. Ill put the copper on Ebay and retire.

    I likely have those rubber things with the bands in stock of a whole gaggle of stuff in Rubbermaids so just need to go deep sea driving. for now will epoxy and fiberglass stick to copper or is there something else going on. When I did some old fiberglass work stuff stuck to everything.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    Polyester resin and hardener with fibre glass. Canadian tire automotive department.

    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    In my 61 bungalow the main pipe goes out to the septic has a hole near the bottom. Its copper all of this and heavy then goes into a massive pipe through the wall. Friend said the pipe will be sealed with Rope. Its not it looks to be lead. I cant this type of plumbing stuff at Box stores and same friend said for now just use Epoxy and repair it temp. I got JB weld and some fiberglass around here and did a repair. The JB weld was in a dual tube and it was the worst one ive ever used, push it nothing comes out one side, use it again and tons out one side little out the other, pop sound air comes out and and.

    I had tried to find two tubes stuff as I trust myself to mix, most dual things ive used worked pretty well, Looked for Epoxy could not find it this stuff did not say epoxy on the package.

    The JB never cured properly its rubbery in some spots. I see a slow leak starting so will rip it off clean and start again.

    Should I not be able to get epoxy and maybe some filler in it I have that talc and glass ball stuff and use my fiberglass matt not the woven stuff? Other things the focus now. I figure the copper you clean it really well with alcohol or lac reducer and as long as the epoxy sets should get a good repair for some time. the JB stayed like Rubber in part of this hole size is about 1/2" x 1/2" once I pushed and mangled it larger to get to thick material.

  5. #5
    I have the fiberglass matt from car days and unopened west system epoxy that should be okay if its not too old. Do you see any filler stuff to thicken epoxy or poly? I used to have a high quality boat type epoxy but its used up now. Il bring the west stuff in now take a peek

    thanks

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    Polyester resin and hardener with fibre glass. Canadian tire automotive department.
    Just curious, why polyester resin rather than epoxy resin? Oh, and I don't think the OP has a Canadian Tire Store nearby but any store that carries marine or autobody supplies or general hardware should have what he needs. I think the JB Weld should have worked, I'm guessing he got a bad package, maybe old stock?
    I see he has West System epoxy, that should work.
    Last edited by Doug Garson; 11-05-2021 at 12:24 AM.

  7. #7
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    Warren is in Ontario, got to be few Canadian tire stores within a stones throw of him.
    Easy to get fresh polyester resin and hardener and mat in small amounts there. And it will set up no problem. and the resin is thin enough to soak in well. I have some real old two part epoxy and it is really thick, I wouldn't use it for that fix.

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    Just curious, why polyester resin rather than epoxy resin? Oh, and I don't think the OP has a Canadian Tire Store nearby but any store that carries marine or autobody supplies or general hardware should have what he needs. I think the JB Weld should have worked, I'm guessing he got a bad package, maybe old stock?
    I see he has West System epoxy, that should work.

  8. #8
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    If its copper maybe you could solder it.

  9. #9
    have the mat and lots you are thinking epoxy is too thick for this, I guess the stuff I used the boat stuff was thicker than polyester.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    Warren is in Ontario, got to be few Canadian tire stores within a stones throw of him.
    Easy to get fresh polyester resin and hardener and mat in small amounts there. And it will set up no problem. and the resin is thin enough to soak in well. I have some real old two part epoxy and it is really thick, I wouldn't use it for that fix.
    Sorry. I assumed Warren was in the US. I've used both polyester and epoxy resins to soak in glass cloth (haven't used mat), the West System epoxy he says he has should work fine.

  11. #11
    we had a place in toronto called smithcraft Old british guy, great prices, great accent, not sure what area. When you picked up he would talk and tell you all kinds of stuff, he really wanted to help people, old school service and loved what he did

  12. #12
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    You may be successful in your epoxy repair, but looking down the road, I’m thinking that corrosion is downstream but fairly close to a fitting. Yes/no? The bottom of the pipe is thinning out and you will likely have to replace it. You may get lucky, but taht is not my experience with copper that has seen its day. I would suggest when you do the repair that you go back upstream until you find decent thickness of pipe. Use Mission couplings. They make them to go from all types of pipes, so you will get one side sized for the OD of the copper and the other for sch 40 PVC/ABS. they have a solid SS band and good worm gear straps. If I’m not reading this correctly a pic might help. good luck with it.

  13. #13
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    Cast iron pipe with bell ends was connected by packing joint with Oakem. That is manila rope strands. Pounded in with blunt chisels until it was basically water tight. Some times lead wool was used. If the pipe was vertical then molten lead was poured on top for the final seal. Very similar to soldering. If it was horizontal an asbestos rope was clamped around it with the end meeting at the top of the bell. Then lead would be poured into the gap between rope and pipe.
    Bill D

  14. #14
    that sounds exactly right my Carpainter friend had said rope. When I used a wire wheel then saw what looked like Lead. Im not up for an adventure right now. so need quick and easy month or two then can get it done right. Out of curiosity do people run plastic to this then seal that in some way? silicon or some other type sealer?

  15. #15
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    I would take scrap joints and experiment , you will know quickly how you will do it.

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