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Thread: Finally ordered a saw stop

  1. #31
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    Mar 2003
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    Glenn,

    UHMW is conductive??

    I bought a couple nice cutting boards at a garage sale to cut into miter bars. Haven't done it yet. I guess I should use a different saw to cut it.

    Was the stuff you were cutting special, or is it all conductive?
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  2. #32
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    Dec 2013
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    Central New Jersey
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    Maybe UHMW builds up static and the static charge triggered the saw to brake. Doesn't the saw stop have a method to shut off the safety for cutting conductive or wet material?

  3. #33
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    The saw shipped and made it to the local (10 miles from me) FedEx freight depot at 12:30am in 31 hours. But apparently it's still on a trailer that will be unloaded today and put on a local freight truck tomorrow for afternoon delivery. So about 36-42 hours to go 10 miles. So close but so far away!

  4. #34
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    Feb 2021
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    Portland, OR
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    Fritz, I ended up having to order one last minute when I expected to be shopping for a slider. (Current saw crapped out). My local store had a ton of PCS models in stock and I went with a 5hp ICS which came in a weeks time. SS told me anything that is out of stock, is about a 10 week build to delivery time.

  5. #35
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    I didn't think UHMV conducts. Interesting. Thank you.

    To answer your question Justin, yes you can bypass it, but I choose not to. Accidents happen. And when they happen you can't control so, Murphy says, if I were to turn the brake off......... Guess what.

    If you have a piece of UHMV, and touch it to the saw blade with the saw on but not running, if the red LED goes on, it means it will trip the saw. Now if you did that with a piece of wood, and the red LED stays off, that does NOT mean the wood is not going to trip the saw. That tells you the OUTSIDE of the wood is dry enough to not trip the saw. As I was rudely interrupted by a clunk and no blade visible in my saw.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Iwamoto View Post
    I didn't think UHMV conducts. Interesting. Thank you.

    To answer your question Justin, yes you can bypass it, but I choose not to. Accidents happen. And when they happen you can't control so, Murphy says, if I were to turn the brake off......... Guess what.

    If you have a piece of UHMV, and touch it to the saw blade with the saw on but not running, if the red LED goes on, it means it will trip the saw. Now if you did that with a piece of wood, and the red LED stays off, that does NOT mean the wood is not going to trip the saw. That tells you the OUTSIDE of the wood is dry enough to not trip the saw. As I was rudely interrupted by a clunk and no blade visible in my saw.
    I tend to to cut pretty dry wood, but it's good to know that it might trigger if the inside is wet, and I somewhat expect that.

  7. #37
    I sold 2 Jet saws when I got my SS.

    Both guys were total newbies I spent 20 minutes giving them a “safety seminar”.

    I know we’re all responsible but watching them drive off I felt a bit guilty thinking what if they get hurt?

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    ... conductive UHMW. ...
    Sorry, I got sucked in by the 'conductive' plastic :: precision in all things. UHMW is not conductive, just like human hair is not conductive, but both will store electricity via capacitance. Touch a PVC duct on you dust collector (flowing air), or rub a balloon on your hair. Maybe the physics gurus will chime in, but I recall this is a point charge that can migrate over the surface of the object - but not 'thru' it.

    As I understand the SS 'trigger', it is dependent on the contacting object's capacitive discharge. I also believe the 'touch on/off' faucets use the same principle. My finger will turn it on, but a fork or towel (wet or dry) will not. I am not sure why a metal strike reportedly will trigger the SS, but not the faucet...??

  9. #39
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    Mar 2003
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    odessa, missouri
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    We made legs for restaurant seats from oak. 3x3x4 or 6". They cut the parts so they would end up 3 1/4×3 1/4x6". Guy took them to a sawstop and was cutting them down to 3x3. I just walked away. He was the Forman for his area. I said something to the plant manager and I think it stopped.

    Thanks for Sawstop.

  10. #40
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    I sold 2 Jet saws when I got my SS.

    Both guys were total newbies I spent 20 minutes giving them a “safety seminar”.

    I know we’re all responsible but watching them drive off I felt a bit guilty thinking what if they get hurt?
    I was thinking the same thing this morning when I cleaned my soon to be for sale Jet saw today, aka vacuumed any saw dust remnants and swapped out my Forrest blade for a new plane steel rip blade that I won't mind seeing go.

  11. #41
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    Dec 2013
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    Saw arrived and it's all down in the basement. Wasn't so bad to move the base of the saw using an appliance dolly. I used some of the packing to protect the saw from the appliance dolly. There are 3 steps from the garage into the house, and 14 steps down down to the basement with 1 L turn. Waiting for some extra hands to help lift it onto the mobile base and then I will continue to assemble it.

    20211105_144548 (2).jpg 20211105_152723 (2).jpg 20211105_152736 (2).jpg

  12. #42
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Congratulations, Justin!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #43
    Have fun. My understanding of the brake tripping risk is that if you touch anything conductive that also touches the blade, like a nail in the wood you are cutting, it will trip the blade. The conductor completes the circuit. Apparently wet wood can too? You can put it in bypass but you have to do it for each cut. If you turn the saw off you have to set bypass mode again.

    Injury from contact depends on the speed of your body part when it touches the blade. Kickback threw my hand into a 3/4 dado stack pretty fast and I got a broken bone and several stitches. But I still have the finger (with a little nerve damage). I was not overly confident due to the brake, I was trying to catch up after spending a bunch of time switching the blade cartridge for the dado cartridge. Seldom helps to get in a hurry. But comparitively it is a safe saw. And a nice saw. I still do not like all the work to switch over from a blade to a dado stack so I do dados with a router. I've never liked setting up a dado stack and adding a cartridge change to it just seems like too much.

    I keep the manual in a drawer on the saw. When the lights start flashing I need the manual to see what the saw is saying. But it seldom happens any more.

  14. #44
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    I was able to complete assembly of the saw tonight. I didn't put the blade in yet, make any required adjustments or get acquainted with it yet. I still need to get power cord run around a few things to keep it safe (no trrip hazard) to get to my 220v circuit. there is no where near the saw that would work for a dedicated receptacle. I was going to replace the saw's cord with a longer one and the tech support at saw stop guided me to the requirement in the owners manual about using an extension cord. I would have never thought of a 220v extension cord, but it allows for it and saw stop tech said it was fine. I needed to go 22 feet over the existing 9 foot cord, and while the requirement says 14g, i went to 12g anyway

    .


    Looking forward to getting it up and running tomorrow AM.

  15. #45
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    Mar 2003
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    Your 12G extension cord, the same gauge as the wire in the wall for a 20A 240V plug, will be golden. I ran mine across the ceiling and dropped it down.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

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