Finally ordered a saw stop

[Justin Rapp]

Hey guys, a couple things I discovered that might be of use.

When you install the fence, they say leave a gap between pads and rail. I closed mine up to pretty much a slide fit, not what fence has no racking and is a dream to use.

Blades. The other thing I found, and maybe you guys can chime in, I haven’t t talked to SS about this. I found with several of my blades that have been sharpened multiple times, the brake gap is more than the spec even when closed all the way up.

I’m guessing this would cause a delay, but would it be significant enough to warrant buying new blades?

Also, I forgot about blades with anti kickback shoulders you’re not supposed to use them.

Apparently there is also some inherent backlash in the height adjustment? I’ve talked to SS about this. I never experienced it in either of my Jet saws. Getting used to it but have any of you adjusted the gear lash? I’m always afraid of screwing with a factory setting.

I believe I read about ensuring adjustment of the blade brake every time you put on a different blade as sharpening can take the blade diameter down a hair or two each time. I supposed if the blade has been sharpened enough times that the brake can't be adjusted properly for the required clearance, it's just time for a new blade. I know Forrest tells me I should get 8-10 sharpening from a blade before the teeth are too worn down. Forrest can replace broken teeth but it's not cost effective to do the entire blade.

I also saw not to sue a blade with anti-kickback shoulders as it adds weight to the blade that will slow down the braking process.

[Ron Selzer]

However, instead of buying the $275 dust collection hoses, I picked up a few vac hoses from home depot. The one that works the best is the hose that comes with the Ridgid Car Cleaning Kit ($25.00), along with some dust collection parts I already had (or about $12 in parts) and some scrap wood to built a small frame to hold it up from the table, I've got the same functionality for $250 less. Does it look as fancy, no, can I make it fancy if I want, sure.

pictures please of this
thank you
Ron

[Rick Potter]

Robert,

There is a whole thread on blade sizing for SawStop.

In short...some 10" blades were manufactured to metric sizes and actually measure out at roughly 9 3/4" instead of 10. In my case they were Freud blades. I understand new ones now are full 10".

This didn't matter until SS became popular, and they are made for 10" blades, although should adjust to the metric sizes also. Again, in my case, I did not want to adjust with each blade change, and only use full 10" on my SS, using the old ones on another saw.

Hope this helps.

[Justin Rapp]

pictures please of this
thank you
Ron

I will - it's not done yet - i need to tie in the other end of the hose - hopefully tomorrow.

[Geoff Barry]

I think the advantage of the 4" dust collection mentioned by another poster is that it's a floating guard, so there are no obstructions on the table (no pulling the guard for non-thru cuts, for example, or for using a sled or jig). Of course, it's also $500, so not really an impulse purchase. But getting the hose out of the way in general is always useful, so I look forward to seeing your pics!

Also, just for anyone else getting a sawstop, the Grizzly bear crawl base I got has 4 swiveling castors, will hold 900 lbs, and is almost $300 cheaper than the ICS base and adapter for the PCS. I'm sure the ICS base is very nice - the sawstop stuff seems very well made - but there ARE alternatives that offer the same maneuverability

[Justin Rapp]

I think the advantage of the 4" dust collection mentioned by another poster is that it's a floating guard, so there are no obstructions on the table (no pulling the guard for non-thru cuts, for example, or for using a sled or jig). Of course, it's also $500, so not really an impulse purchase. But getting the hose out of the way in general is always useful, so I look forward to seeing your pics!

Also, just for anyone else getting a sawstop, the Grizzly bear crawl base I got has 4 swiveling castors, will hold 900 lbs, and is almost $300 cheaper than the ICS base and adapter for the PCS. I'm sure the ICS base is very nice - the sawstop stuff seems very well made - but there ARE alternatives that offer the same maneuverability

When I looked up the mobile base (bear crawl) I didn't see the 4 caster model but i just found it. You must have gotten something like Grizzly T31566 - Bear Crawl All Swivel HD Mobile Base. I didn't really think of looking for an alternative but had I seen this for 300 less I might have gone with it.

[Jim Becker]

I think the advantage of the 4" dust collection mentioned by another poster is that it's a floating guard, so there are no obstructions on the table (no pulling the guard for non-thru cuts, for example, or for using a sled or jig). Of course, it's also $500, so not really an impulse purchase. But getting the hose out of the way in general is always useful, so I look forward to seeing your pics!

I want to get back to having over head collection available once I have a shop building up and it will most likely be the free standing overarm solution from Grizzly or similar. Good overarm collection really does need the air flow possible from a larger hose connection. Riving knife attached guards/collection are a show-stopper for me because constantly switching back and forth between through and non-through cuts is maddening to me.

[Justin Rapp]

It doesn't have a ton of suction but I did test it and it got most of the dust. I tried it on mdf which is usually the most dust I get 20211112_081111.jpg

[Justin Rapp]

It doesn't have a ton of suction but I did test it and it got most of the dust. I tried it on mdf which is usually the most dust I get 20211112_081111.jpg

Thinking about it more, I might switch the connections on the wye and see if i get a bit more suction on the over-table hose if it's connected to the strait part of the Wye.

[glenn bradley]

I have the factory Saw Stop overarm. The reduction at the guard really does make getting more airflow a decision point for you (and me). Like you I find the collection to be surprisingly good considering the poor pathway. The opening in the guard where the hose attaches is so small an alternate opening will be required. I have a 2-1/2" hose in my current setup but, have not yet altered the opening on the guard so behavior is the same as with the smaller hose. I do see a jump in performance if I hook up a shop vac to the stock guard. There are some things that vacs work better on and small apertures is one of them. I don't want to fool with a shop vac for this but, I am also not sure if I can "field modify" the current guard for a larger hose. A Shark Guard may be the best answer. The jury is still out.

[Ron Selzer]

thank you
hooking up dust collection to one at work and was trying to figure out how to support the hose, in the old shop dropped down from overhead piping, had a nice sized dust collector. New shop has a 25?hp, AAF with flap valve, still hooking all machines up to it. Sized for 12 6" drops open at same time.
at home I have my shop vac piped to the overarm as the factory setup just didn't work for me, not enough suction out of my dust collector
Ron

[Justin Rapp]

If I find that it's not enough suction, I have a spare shop vac that would fit under the extension table just fine and I can use that. I do have a main branch duct going right over the table saw and could easily do a drop down, but it doesn't seem like something i'd need with the amount of wood I cut.

[Robert Engel]

Now having one, I didn’t realize how obstructive over arms are especially for rips under 2” wide.

I find I don’t use it near as often as I anticipated other than MDF and plywood.

[Jim Becker]

Now having one, I didn’t realize how obstructive over arms are especially for rips under 2” wide.

I find I don’t use it near as often as I anticipated other than MDF and plywood.

Yes, especially those fixed to the riving knife. A true overarm/overhead guard setup is a little more flexible because you can have some lateral adjustment, but with very narrow rips, it's going to be a challenge for sure. Nature of the beast. At least with an overarm/overhead mount setup, you can get it out of the way faster and easier for those cuts that it's not compatible with.

[Warren Lake]

Whats a saw stop?

If a saw is well built with attention to that for the most part tons of the dust ends up going into the saw. I was really surprised at the difference and even one time forgot the mickey mouse dust collector I have made my cuts and then realized I had not hooked up the dust collector hosee and sawdust had shot up to six feet at least behind the saw, there is some sort of turbulence in the way the thing is designed inside. My cabinet saws were useless compared to that and I had mctivered something up inside. Still not close to this.