Oscllating multi tool vs oak flooring

[Jack Frederick]

I had to make a long cut on VGWO flooring with my Fein. With new Imperial blades it did an excellent job. You have to be set up comfortably to handle the tool to get the best out of it. No surprise there. I only reluctantly use the MT due to the cost of the blades. Last week I had to make some short cuts in VG For flooring and again it handled well.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Can you get a toe kick saw in the place you need to cut the flooring?

I second that question.
Along the same line as a toe kick saw, some of the small - corded and cordless - 3 3/8" to 4" rotary saws are designed to make flush cuts - so they can be used to cut right against the trim - or wall if the trim is pulled.

[Jason Roehl]

A couple of things I’ve learned from using an oscillating multi tool more than I ever cared to as a carpenter...

- Blades quality is important, though there are several decent brands. Imperial is one that I’ve used a lot.

- Because the blade does not have an effective way to clear its own waste by itself, it really helps cut accuracy and blade life to keep the blade moving and not held in the same place for very long if possible. Say you have to make a cut that is 6” long. Have the tool and blade moving longitudinally (continuously) or even just in a sawing motion through the cut in order to allow the dust to clear instead of plunging all the way down in one single spot to final depth. Trust me, this make a huge difference in blade life. You can toast a blade in about 2 minutes by cutting incorrectly and building up too much heat.

- For any critical cuts or finished cuts, use a guide block that references the back of the blade. Ie - you need to make a perfectly straight length of cut - clamp or screw/nail/affix a guide board with a straight edge next to the cut as a reference for the back side of the blade. This also helps keep your cuts perpendicular, though the blades can flex out of plane fairly easily if they’re dull and too much pressure is being applied.

Hope this helps.

This is exactly my experience. Clear sawdust if possible and keep the blade moving to distribute heat.

[Brian Tymchak]

Can you get a toe kick saw in the place you need to cut the flooring?

John

I second that question.
Along the same line as a toe kick saw, some of the small - corded and cordless - 3 3/8" to 4" rotary saws are designed to make flush cuts - so they can be used to cut right against the trim - or wall if the trim is pulled.

Thanks for the idea. Until your posts, I had not heard of such a tool. My current need is to remove flooring for a short wall being added in our kitchen. I need to cross cut about 4' of flooring twice to lay the bottom plate on subfloor. One end of the cut butts against an existing wall, and is where I need a solution for a clean cut. (Actually, I also need to xcut the flooring for the other end of the wall. ) From a video I watched, it seems like the handles of the toe kick saw would still leave me with a couple of inches that would need a multi tool to finish. Interesting tool though. And extremely useful in tearing out an existing floor.

I actually thought about just using a chisel and some elbow grease to finish the cuts, but why do that when you have a perfect excuse to buy a new tool??

[Brian Tymchak]

The blades are not really standardized, but most manufacturers have tried to make their blades fit *most* of the tools; but it still takes a little care to make sure the blades you buy will fit your machine. For example, Bosch and Fein and some others have switched to the Starlock system. True Starlock blades will not fit tools like the dewalt multi-tool that requires a slotted fitment. Some blades come with little adapters for certain tools. I'm not familiar with the Ryobi machine so can't speak to specifics, but just be aware there are multiple systems out there.

Thanks for the details Paul. I'll make sure to pay attention on this.

[Bill Carey]

2nd the idea of a toe kick saw - designed to do 1 thing and do it well. Can't remember what brand it was but did the job.

As for the Ryobi tools, I have been using them for a long time - maybe 20 years - and have accumulated maybe 30 tools (drills to leaf blowers) all of which use the same battery. Not many systems can say that. They get an un-deservred bad rap IMHO. The only tools I have had to replace are ones that I dropped, spilled paint on (and my wife was more concerned with the carpet - go figure) or to get new features on an improved tool. The only ryobi that I returned was their chain saw. And I replaced it a Wen, which is a great tool. For a one time use, I go cheap.

[Ole Anderson]

"Oscillating multi tool"? Go get the "buzz saw".

[Terry Wawro]

If budget is not a concern, then a Fein is the way to go. No doubt it's a great tool. If budget is a concern and/or this is for a one-time or occasional use, I would recommend buying a cheap corded HF model. They may not cut the fastest, but I've had mine for years. Still working fine after a lot of use and abuse. Can't seem to kill the thing.

FWIW, besides cutting, a multi-tool is great for removing residue. Mounted with a scraper blade, it goes through hardened construction adhesive like a hot knife through butter.

[Brian Tymchak]

If budget is not a concern, then a Fein is the way to go. No doubt it's a great tool.

I ended up going with the corded Fein. $200 for their starter kit with the MM 500 had everything I needed to satisfy the immediate need. Got it at HD, which was a surprise that they carried Fein.