-Grizzly jointer G0586 90 fence set up problems

[Brian Runau]

If I wasn't so damn old I would buy new, but has served my hobby needs and hope it will continue to do so.

Having trouble getting the fence square to the table. If you set it square and adjust the stop, then tighten down the two fence lock handles it moves the 90 set up, so you have to figure about how much it is going to move when you tighten it down etc... I have managed this in the past, but this time.... The square sitting on the out feed table is square to the fence when it is locked down, the square on the in feed table has a gap at the bottom.

So I don't think it's the fence, but could it be the in feed or out feed tables? Would adjusting the gibs compensate for this? It did not seem to. I do not know of a way to raise the back side machine way. I suppose I could lower the in feed table and shim it from the top, but this seems like the wrong way to go about it.

Appreciate any help.

Thanks

Brian

[Brian Runau]

Only other thing I could think to do was to pull the fence and the fence mechanism completely off the jointer. No interference or problems I could see. I reassembled the unit and it did seem to be better, closer to square front and back of cutter head. See if this holds up. Brian

[Mike Kees]

Brian do you own any sort of precision straight edge ? I suspect that your problem is your jointer fence is slightly warped or twisted . This is something a straight edge could help determine. If you have the fence casting laying on top of a known flat surface it would show up as well. After you determine if the fence is the issue or not is the only time I would start to adjust your jointer beds. (If fence is flat ) To check the beds you need a quality straight edge . Check each bed individually then move on to if they are lined up in the same plane. The best reference source I have found for how to do this is John White's book "Care and Repair of shop machines". He gives very detailed instructions for how to tune and adjust a dovetail way jointer. Hope this helps.

[Mel Fulks]

For things like preparing boards for glue-up many just joint one face to fence ,next face out.

[Brian Runau]

Brian do you own any sort of precision straight edge ? I suspect that your problem is your jointer fence is slightly warped or twisted . This is something a straight edge could help determine. If you have the fence casting laying on top of a known flat surface it would show up as well. After you determine if the fence is the issue or not is the only time I would start to adjust your jointer beds. (If fence is flat ) To check the beds you need a quality straight edge . Check each bed individually then move on to if they are lined up in the same plane. The best reference source I have found for how to do this is John White's book "Care and Repair of shop machines". He gives very detailed instructions for how to tune and adjust a dovetail way jointer. Hope this helps.

Mike, good morning. I do have a precision straight edge I use when I change blades to set up the in feed out feed tables. I got it pretty good by removing the fence and resetting it, so I don't plan on removing the fence at this time. Parts I ran yesterday did come out square. This has been in my shop for over ten years, why would cast iron that has been machined warp over time? it has been in my basement shop with a dehumidifier for all this time. thanks brian

[Jason Evans]

Are you sure it was different before? My jointer fence has a small bit of a twist to it, but it is square to the out feed table. My guess is as long as it is square at the beginning of the outfeed table and it’s making things square, you’re good to go. I don’t think the infeed side matters too much since the jointer takes out twists.

[tom lucas]

This is a common problem with many of the Grizzly fence systems. Mine does the same thing. So I get is square at the maximum exposure point and won't move it unless I absolutely have to. This means that side of the blades will wear faster, though. Easier to live with if you have spiral cutters.

[Mike Kees]

Cast Iron is not absolutely stable, it can and will move slightly. It happens more with Asian made machines where the castings are machined with far shorter "seasoning". Powermatic used to have a seasoning yard where they left jointer castings out in the weather for 6 years before machining them. This allowed any built in tension to do its thing and move ,twist etc BEFORE it was machined. I have straightened a jointer fence by placing it with a 2x4 block at each end on the floor and stepping on it. You can feel the casting" give" very slightly. Have also heard of guys taking out twist by twisting with one end in a woodworking vise until you feel it 'give'. Important to not go further than the slight "give " or it could break. I learned this stuff from an old article from FWW comparing Rockwell and Powermatic tools when they were both 100% American made.

[Andrew Hughes]

I have a suggestion for adjusting a jointer fence to the table. Square the fence to the outfeed side just past the head in a place your comfortable to hold the wood as it’s getting cut square.
If your fence is concave with a twist that’s a problem.
If your fence is convex setting it square just past the head should work out.
Good Luck