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Thread: Laser Level?

  1. #16
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    Sep 2015
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    San Diego, Ca
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    Before my contractor was allowed to pour my slab, I required him to stop and let me check his forms for level.

    He used a contractor's laser level and I used a water level. It was the type that screwed to the ends of a garden hose. Over a 100 foot length, I confirmed that the forms were level to within 1/8". Perfectly fine.

    I did a google search and found this level : Mayes Level 10309 Water Level. They cost around $20. It is easiest to have two people - - one on each end and do it on either a cloudy day or in the early morning or evening. With a hot sun, the water heats up and rises. That won't affect the reading as long as the increased water height is the same on both ends.

    I also used the water level to plot out the iso-elevation lines to do the calcs for a grading permit. It was a bit tedious but it worked fine and it didn't need to be as precise as checking the footings.

  2. #17
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    Sep 2006
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    Shenandoah Valley in Virginia
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    buy 1/4" clear plastic tubing, less than $25 at box stores. get a $2 bucket from a dollar store.
    Submerge tubing until it is completely filled with water... If you want to get fancy, put some food coloring in bucket before filling hose for more contrast..

    Golf tees make good plugs while laying tubing out..

    Simple and as accurate as any level....
    One person operation with duct tape and 2 sticks to hold ends..

  3. #18
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    Jan 2008
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    Western Nebraska
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    I'm just putting this up as a counterpoint to the water level praise. Water levels are dead simple, the concept is as obvious as you can make something, but the reason I don't use them is that in practice they tend to be persnickety. If water leaks out anywhere, you have to stop and calibrate everything. The hoses get caught on everything, and job sites tend to have a lot of everything. The hoses are trip hazards too, which seems like a little issue until someone trips into a hole or rebar. They also quit working as 32 degrees, unless you switch to antifreeze, but then you get that stuff slopping around the jobsite.

    The worst though is the calibration, say your water level is set for footers, that's in a hole, so you are either crawling around in the dirt checking stuff, or hammering in story stakes and using a tape from a reference line. Same for stuff that is just over arms length high. Measuring across a set of form is a pain because you probably physically have to crawl line of site across them to measure. That's a bugger of a job if you are pouring a basement for example.

    I'm clumsy, but I have never tripped on a laser. Having a line on at all times in a site is a very useful thing, you'll find that it gets referenced a lot more because it's easy.

    Yes water levels can work, but kind of like a archimedes screw for pumping water or ox carts, we have better tools for that now.
    Last edited by Steve Rozmiarek; 11-02-2021 at 9:48 AM.

  4. #19
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I agree with Steve and I"m not a contractor at all. Water levels absolutely work, but I wouldn't want to do a big job with that method. A modern, high quality laser system would be what I would choose...useable for interior work, too, and for one big project, its resalable.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
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    Jun 2012
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    New Westminster BC
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    Have you looked into renting the laser level?

  6. #21
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    Sep 2014
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    Northern Florida
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    Re using a water level: Years ago I was a certified measurer for sailboat racing handicaps. I did hull measurements of over 100 boats from about 24 to 70+ feet long. There were a few dozen points on the hull to be accurately located relative to the waterline. I did many with a transit level, but the water level was quite good. Measurements were in decimal feet to .01 foot (1/8 inch) and I was confident the water level was that accurate over the length of any boat I saw.

    Alcohol works better than water. No bubbles and it settles down faster after you move it. Keep it in the original container and loosely cover the opening so it doesn't evaporate.

    If you're going to use water put a SMALL (really small) amount of detergent in it and have enough water in your container to flush the line well.

    Attach the working end of your tube to a stick maybe 3 feet long and tape it to the stick at top and bottom. Make tick marks as needed on the stick for reference. Put a hook on the end of the stick so you can hang it up.

    The price of the water level is good and it works well, but if I had an excuse to buy a laser level, I would.

    [Edit: My idea of a water level is 1/4" tubing up to 50 feet or so long. Not garden hose.]
    Last edited by Alan Rutherford; 11-02-2021 at 5:12 PM.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    Have you looked into renting the laser level?
    Doug, I actually looked into that here locally not long ago. They want a lot of shiny things for even a one week rental it seems....I concluded it would actually be less expensive to buy a really nice one and sell it for even 50% afterward If I needed to use one for more than a few days! But the rental market is one of those things that's "local" sometimes...and is always something to check into for sure.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
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    Nov 2003
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    Central North Carolina
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    For likely a one or two project need and the size of your project, I would go with a water level. Here is a link that might help. A non foaming detergent in water to flush the line out before using and to reduce the water's surface tension with a little bit in the water will help. Food coloring in the water helps too. I went with blue. I built my shop foundation with one that I made this way and it worked very well for me. Find a nice very flexible garden hose about 10' longer than the diagonal measurement of your project and make these ends for it. Rubber plugs on strings help keep the water from leaking when movint the ends from place to place. Unplug the ends when ready to take the measurement.

    Charley

    https://www.jlconline.com/deck-build...-water-level_o

  9. #24
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    Sep 2014
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    Northern Florida
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    If you're using 1/4 inch tubing, put the water or alcohol in a gallon jug tied securely on a stepladder or other support in the middle of your project. Then you only have one end to worry about. It's easier to use and possibly more accurate. Remember to read from the bottom of the meniscus in the tube.

    Make a reference mark somewhere when you start and check periodically to make sure nothing has shifted. This is especially useful if you might have to come back another time.

  10. #25
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    Sep 2006
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    Shenandoah Valley in Virginia
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    Even though I always used the level with no problem, never knew it had a name... Thanks Alan...
    see this to find out what a meniscus is :
    https://www.usgs.gov/special-topic/w...center_objects

  11. #26
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    Dec 2006
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    Porter,TX
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    Guys, don't hate me for trying to get off little cheap. I was going to use the water level method but the hose is stiff and just don't work that well when its cool. But now I am looking at the Bosch Laser Level which cost is almost 700.00, maybe it go on sale here soon. When get chance take a look at this model, watch few You tubes and it seems to fit my needs which is forms for slab and couple other projects. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...0hvk-199723-p/
    I know its not the high end but looks like its what I need and resale will be little easier. Open for more suggestions
    Black Friday Sales?
    Father's Day Sales?
    Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 11-05-2021 at 8:04 PM.

  12. #27
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    If you're going to look at the pro level, um...levels...check Stabila, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #28
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    Jan 2008
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    Western Nebraska
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carroll Courtney View Post
    Guys, don't hate me for trying to get off little cheap. I was going to use the water level method but the hose is stiff and just don't work that well when its cool. But now I am looking at the Bosch Laser Level which cost is almost 700.00, maybe it go on sale here soon. When get chance take a look at this model, watch few You tubes and it seems to fit my needs which is forms for slab and couple other projects. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...0hvk-199723-p/
    I know its not the high end but looks like its what I need and resale will be little easier. Open for more suggestions
    Black Friday Sales?
    Father's Day Sales?
    That Bosch looks like it has the right features, but you'll find that it is not pro grade and your resale market will only be to serious DIY folks. Those same guys will try to get something for cheap just as you are, and you'll be reselling cheaper. A good Spectra, Topcon, Trimble, Hilti, carry their resale values like Festool does, you'll be able to interest pro builders as well.

    The difference between the two tiers of tools are toughness and accuracy. When one of my Spectra's gets knocked over or dropped, it's a simple recalibration test, then back to work. I've never had one break, which is what I pay extra for. I have three also ran brand lasers on the shop shelf that didn't survive the unavoidable jobsite trauma and are in need or repair/junking. A Johnson quit self leveling, a Dewalt got knocked over by a Nebraska mini-hurricane and is way out of calibration, and another Johnson that completely completely lost its rotary prism because of a fall off a ladder. Stupid stuff happens on a job site, especially with a crew of more than one.

    I do this for a living so I have a different perspective on spending $ on tools. For me it's about the return on investment and as time has a quantifiable cost, it's easy to calculate. You are looking at this from the perspective of your labor being free probably, so you maybe aren't seeing the benefits of better tools. From my perspective, good measuring tools which are critical to good construction the first try, have more value to a project than any other tool in the shed. The Bosch will likely be fine, and will endear itself to you in use enough that you will not resell it, and you'll start a laser collection similar to mine!

    Any decent laser is better than no laser.

  14. #29
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    Steve you are spot on describing myself, I did broaden my search to the Topcon but not the kit. While I would like to have the tripod and the pole but really I could just use maybe 1x2 piece of good wood. Which doing so drop price down some so wanted to ask what think about this one which comes with receiver.
    https://www.tigersupplies.com/Produc...xoCOZ4QAvD_BwE
    Also I guess could shop around and see who has best price on this model and a warranty.
    See they can be order from HD
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Topcon-R...0-07/309659669
    Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 11-06-2021 at 4:05 PM.

  15. #30
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    Western Nebraska
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carroll Courtney View Post
    Steve you are spot on describing myself, I did broaden my search to the Topcon but not the kit. While I would like to have the tripod and the pole but really I could just use maybe 1x2 piece of good wood. Which doing so drop price down some so wanted to ask what think about this one which comes with receiver.
    https://www.tigersupplies.com/Produc...xoCOZ4QAvD_BwE
    Also I guess could shop around and see who has best price on this model and a warranty.
    See they can be order from HD
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Topcon-R...0-07/309659669
    Carroll, I'd definitely buy that Topcon and receiver over the Bosch. Good deal too. You can by a stick and tripod seperate for not much, depending on what you are looking for. That one that fell off the ladder I mentioned before, was being used without a tripod. Tripods are the way to go, but it can be done otherwise. A heavy duty camera tripod may work if you have one around. Sticks can be as complicated as you want them to be. You'll want one eventually, but you can use a 2x2 story stick with the receiver attached for a lot. We even clamp a receiver to the excavator or loader when were digging to grade to see the line.

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