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Thread: Something to fill crack between tread and riser

  1. #1

    Something to fill crack between tread and riser

    I'm restoring a 100 year staircase and there is varying widths of openings between the inside of the treads and the vertical risers between them.

    The treads will be stained and poly'd, the risers painted.

    I think I need a filler that will be flexible, because each step will cause at least a tiny bit of flex or movement.

    Does anyone have a recommendation for what to use?

    I've been hearing great things about Lexel caulk, for example.

    Thank you,

    Joseph





  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Northeastern OK
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    301
    Could you better attach a small cove or quarter round molding on each step and let the motion occur? I don't see a flexible caulk type of filler looking good or lasting very well. However, I am sure there are other folks better versed on that sort of material than me.

  3. #3
    Thank you for the help!

    I thought about molding, but (a) the treads are already not so deep (I think the run is about 9" or so) so I don't want to lose any depth and (b) it'll be continuously kicked and I'm concerned won't last very long.

    But, I don't know of a better solution.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
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    4,680
    Try to close the gap. You may be able to push or hammer the tread back where it belongs, or get underneath it and use a few screws to pull the riser to the tread. Don't use caulk or lexal on poly stairs, it'll look silly.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,676
    Steve's recommendation is always the first thing to try..fix the stairs.

    Consider adding a thin "thick veneer" facing to the risers....25" if it will work to close the gap. Dont put it behind the stair treads...just down to the top of them. You don't materially affect the stair metrics with that thin material and it will look far better than any kind of filler. Obviously, use the same species and grain characteristics as the stairs for visual compatibility after you are done with your finishing work. If you have access to the backside, you may be able to attach material to the back of the treads as an alternative.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    4,443
    The problem is not the crack, it's seasonal wood movement. Surely that crack gets smaller in the summer. Any type of filler or caulk has to be able to absorb movement in two directions. If you don't like the idea of a cove or bead, how about an 1/8" thick shoe molding pinned to the riser.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    462
    Is removing the treads and risers out of the question? If not, I'd remove them, extend the risers, and then mate the risers to the treads like usual for a seamless finish.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
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    3,046
    I'd remove the treads and replace them with oak treads that are properly sized. Pine treads are intended for carpet.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,225
    Your stairs appear to be made like the ones in our home, though ours are much older. If you have access to the underside, your need to check the riser shims. Our stairway has dados for the riser that fit somewhat loosely. After the riser was in place, shims were placed in the dado to push the riser tight to the tread. I've had to tighten up some of ours.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,590
    I would go to a shoe moulding or something with a thinner profile than 1/4 round. I would assume you could get something/make something with an ultra thin depth and attach it to the riser.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    New England, in a town on the way to nowhere
    Posts
    537
    Someone already filled the gaps around the treads and risers where they fit into the stringers; you made need to remove some of it to tghten the stairs.if you have acess to underneath, follow Lisa's suggestion and tighten all the shims and re-nail the risers onto the treads.
    I would imagine they squeak.
    if you can't get under, rip thin strips of matching pine to fit and glue only the side that touches the tread, not the riser. Push the strip down till it hits the nails, let it dry and pare it flush to the tread

  12. #12
    It's hard to tell from the photos how the stair is built. If it has housed stringers and you have access to the back side you may be able to force the risers forward to meet the treads by driving shims tighter, then screw through the back of the risers into the treads. If you can get the treads free (unlikely) you could set them farther back to meet the treads and fill the gap at the nosings. Another possibility would be to fill with a tapered shim driven in from above. In any case I would use construction adhesive at the joint. Tape up to the joint to minimize cleanup.

    I don't think caulking is out of the question. Sand the back of the tread and front of riser as best you can, put blue tape at the back of the tread and just above the tread on the riser, and fill the gap to just below the tread with backer rod or some other foam that will stay in place and maintain the caulk thickness less than the joint width. Fill with polyurethane caulk like Sikaflex, tool it and remove the tape. Paint the caulk when cured. Do a test joint or two to get comfortable with the tooling step- that type of caulk is messy. I think you might get less squeaking than with a shoe molding.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    New Boston, Michigan
    Posts
    247
    stairs.JPG

    My farm house was built in 1916. The original stairs were almost identical to yours. That is they were made from construction grade fur boards. I would bet they were painted or covered with carpet.
    PLAN A:
    Using a small 1/8" round molding painted first to match the risers is what I recommend.


    PLAN B:
    I cut my treads flush with the risers and added 6/4 walnut treads scribed to fit without molding. Added tempered Masonite painted white. 5/4 oak treads are a good choice. No needed to tear anything out.

    Just my $.02
    Ask a woodworker to "make your bed" and he/she makes a bed.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Stump View Post
    stairs.JPG


    PLAN B:
    I cut my treads flush with the risers and added 6/4 walnut treads scribed to fit without molding. Added tempered Masonite painted white. 5/4 oak treads are a good choice. No needed to tear anything out.

    Just my $.02
    Wouldn't that mess up the first and last riser height?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    New Boston, Michigan
    Posts
    247
    Only the top stair is 7". The rest are 8" No animals or humans were harmed in the construction of these stairs.Upstairs1.JPG
    Ask a woodworker to "make your bed" and he/she makes a bed.

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