Setting up an older slider. Need help

[Bobby Robbinett]

So I am relatively new to the world of sliding table saws. I have my Griggio sc3200B setup ok but would like to take a day and dial it in better. I could use some advice on this because even though I have read the manual I am having a difficult time understanding the adjustments. I have a small amount of autism which sometimes causes me to struggle to understand things without someone to help explain in a way that is better for me to understand.

My first question is how much toe put should the sliding table have? Does it hurt to have the sliding table track perfectly parallel to the blade? I can’t see getting truly accurate cuts with any degree of toe out. Do any of you guys know where or how to adjust the sliding carriage on my saw? (Griggio sc3200b).

Next question. Does the sliding carriage need to be perfectly flat relative to the cast iron top on both sides of the blade?

3rd question. I am have trouble squaring the fence on the sliding carriage. Every time I adjust it using my 24” long square and using a calibration disk in place of the blade the fence goes right back to where it was. Any advice here? The only adjustments that I can see for the crosscut fence are the knobs on the underside of the carriage. Am I missing something here?

[Mike King]

These are for Felder, but may help.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidp...57711930240666
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidp...h/23809611500/

Mike

[Kevin Jenness]

1) Some say this, some say that. I personally have set up my saw so that the carriage and rip fence are as close to parallel to the blade as I can measure, but it is better to have toe-out than the opposite. The divergence should only be a very small amount, but I will leave it to others to say how much over what distance. Most saws have adjustment bolts on the carriage for alignment. If your carriage is fixed you may have to align the saw trunnions relative to the carriage travel.

2)Many mfrs recommend the carriage be a few thousandths higher than the main table. I like it even in height. In either case, the tables should be coplanar.

3) There should be an adjustable stop bolt on the underside of the crosscut table to set the fence at 90.

My free advice, worth every penny.

[Mike King]

the slider should toe out relative to the blade by a slight amount (.001" over 12" of movement) to avoid the back of the blade interfering with the material, which could cause the material to move, kickback or burn.

https://groups.io/g/felderownersgrou...6265890#108372

[Chris Parks]

1) Some say this, some say that. I personally have set up my saw so that the carriage and rip fence are as close to parallel to the blade as I can measure, but it is better to have toe-out than the opposite. The divergence should only be a very small amount, but I will leave it to others to say how much over what distance. Most saws have adjustment bolts on the carriage for alignment. If your carriage is fixed you may have to align the saw trunnions relative to the carriage travel.

2)Many mfrs recommend the carriage be a few thousandths higher than the main table. I like it even in height. In either case, the tables should be coplanar.

3) There should be an adjustable stop bolt on the underside of the crosscut table to set the fence at 90.

My free advice, worth every penny.

Most people use multiple dial indicators to set the table height but I use a different method. Decide what height the sliding table needs to be above the fixed table and buy some shim gauges the same thickness, lets say 4 thou. Place the shim on the fixed table front and rear of the machine after very carefully cleaning that fixed table and lay two straight edges across the fixed table and over the sliding table. I start with the sliding table lower than the fixed table and adjust the slider until I can't see light between the straight edge and the slider.

I set toe out by ear, if I can't hear the back of the blade touching the material being cut then it has enough clearance.