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Thread: Help! I need to replace the line from the water meter to the house

  1. #16
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    Boring, they likely won't use PVC due to all the joints due to the pulling pressure put on the pipe. Joints are another reason to stay away from PVC. Best bet is HDPE, it can absorb pressure surges better than PVC. That is the standard now. PEX can work too, but is less available in the 300' roll length necessary to do the pull without fusing a joint. Copper is great if your water is not corrosive. I have seen copper services with pinholes due to corrosion. An advantage to copper though, besides it's use as an electrical ground, is the ability to use a welder to thaw a frozen pipe. My 46 year old service is 1" plastic (HDPE) from the curb box to the house and copper from the main (across two streets) to the curb box. Worst: galvanized.

    I don't believe the electrical code allows just the water service to be used as the ground, you must have ground rod(s), bonded to your metallic plumbing pipes.
    Last edited by Ole Anderson; 10-25-2021 at 8:10 AM.
    NOW you tell me...

  2. #17
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    I would consult local plumbers and see what they recommend or the water company.

    Home Depot and Lowes both can help as well.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
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    I had a new house built in 2001 to replace a condemned house. New sewer and water lines were installed as part of the project. They didn't ask me, but 1" copper tubing was used. My current house is 40 years old and has HDPE from the well to the house. I don't believe the HDPE is leaking. Personally, I would go with HDPE to save money over copper.

    That standard in Minnesota is that the water meter is placed inside the house, typically in the basement unless the house has no basement. However, the homeowner is usually responsible for the line from the meter out to the shutoff valve at the street. The shutoff valves are buried below the frost line and a long key is used to turn the valve.

  4. #19
    When my parents bought this house in '69 the basement was 14" deep in water. While my old man was wading around down here trying to figure out a solution, he noticed there were no grounds wires connected to any of the plumbing. And no ground wires outside to the power panel. For 3 years no electrical ground whatsoever in this house. No clue how it got past inspectors, but the original owner was the builder... What's grounded this place since then is what looks like a #4 gauge copper wire bolted to a 3/4" copper rod hammered in the ground below the power box. Sounds do-able if switching over to PVC pipe-?
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    McKinney, TX
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    Seems to me that if you leave the copper pipe in the ground with the wire connected to it that would make a fine ground then use whatever you want for the new water line.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Feeley View Post
    The water is off and I have a..ahem…lower intestine problem
    two plumbers have been out. One wants to put in copper. The other wants to do some sort of plastic. My daughter talked to them because I was…well.. you know.
    so what’s the best pipe to bury?
    I agree with those who say to check with the regulating authority.

    When I put in 700 of underground waterline to a livestock waterer at the farm it was subsidized by the Dept of Agriculture (which paid 75%) but I had to follow their three rules:
    1) buried below frost line
    2) PVC pipe
    3) specified minimum ID

    My plumber recommend PEX but the Gov would not allow it. They did tests where PEX eventually failed underground.

    One thing: if you put plastic pipe of any kind underground consider running a wire along with it with the ends extending to above ground. This will allow the line to be located electronically in the future. My water line to the house is 450' of some kind of plastic. The locating service told me they could not trace it.

    JKJ

  7. #22
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    Copper has the added benefit of being antimicrobial. But also very expensive compared to the others. If you are boring I think your choices are Pex and copper.

    In the end get a warranty with it from whoever installs it. If it last a year it will last 30.

  8. #23
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    Sep 2016
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    Modesto, CA, USA
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    If you go with pex do not be fooled by the diameter. It is measured by the outside diameter while iron pipe is internal so 3/4 iron is replaced by one inch pex. They will try to sell you 3/4 pex is equal because it is smooth inside with no extra joints.
    I have been known to cover the plastic pipe with some dirt then drop in scrap iron before the final fill. Do this at joints and turns so it can be located later.
    Bill D

  9. #24
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    If you go with pex do not be fooled by the diameter. It is measured by the outside diameter while iron pipe is internal so 3/4 iron is replaced by one inch pex. They will try to sell you 3/4 pex is equal because it is smooth inside with no extra joints.
    I have been known to cover the plastic pipe with some dirt then drop in scrap iron before the final fill. Do this at joints and turns so it can be located later.
    Bill D

    Another good thing to bury in the trench is bright caution tape. I put a strip of tape 6" down and another strip 6" below that and if burying deep, another strip just above the pipe (or wire). Some future digger will run into the tape first.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
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    Contact the local code inspector's office to what is allowed in your locale.

    Then, shop around to various people to install it. I awoke deaf in 2010 and as a result, I retired in 2011. 2 things I wanted done soon there after, replace the existing 30 year old roof and replace the incoming water line as ours was the only home in the area whose galvanized water lines hadn't rusted out and had to be replaced. I hired a local sprinkler company. They dug holes about 3 1/2' deep every 25
    feet or so and used a pneumatic mole to drill a hole from one hole to the other, pull a rope through, pull a steel cable through and then pull 1" soft copper though from the street to the house.

    They didn't destroy the lawn or the driveway in the process. I am sure pvc or other plastics PEX or similar could be done that way.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  11. #26
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    Oct 2007
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    Thanks to all that posted. It was my daughter’s decision since it is her land. We talked to four different contractors and got some very different plans. One guy wanted to go around our garage instead of straight from street to house. That made the pipe 250’ instead of 150. The guy that made the most sense was clearly on team copper so that’s what she chose. Comes with a 15 year warranty. Well watch it carefully. Like someone posted, “if it lasts a year, it will last for 20.

  12. #27
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    Hire a contractor and let him deal with it. That is what I did and never regret it. He will bury new pipe from the meter to the house. He also added new hose bibs.
    If you have natural gas have him check the system.

    I always hire electricians and plumbers. I will do carpenter repairs, I built houses a long time ago and have a shop full of lumber and tools.

  13. #28
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    We hired someone and it’s done. My daughter was very happy with the results.

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