Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 25 of 25

Thread: I think I have been using the wrong side on my table saw all these years?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh Betsch View Post
    Maybe off topic here but I'm wondering if people ever move the rip fence to the right of the blade while ripping? On my slider the rip fence tows out a bit so the wood never drags on the back side of the blade and cause a kick back. The rip fence is never moved to the left of the blade, and I use the wagon with a parallel guide if I need to rip on the left. It seems to me that on a standard table saw either you have to have the fence dead straight or only rip on the tow out side. Or let the blade drag on the back side and take the risk of kickbacks.
    On a slider, it would pretty much be impossible to move the rip fence to the left of the blade so yes, you'd use the wagon for that with a parallel guide, Fritz & Franz or for straight line ripping, just holding it down on the wagon with your hands and with the miter bar behind it to push it through.

    On a cabinet saw, while you "can" move the fence to the left of the blade, you'd have to have it setup dead-nuts parallel to the blade which is not what most folks do...a little toe is normal at the back to insure the off-cut doesn't bind as you note and it would be in the opposite direction if you move to the other side of the blade. This brings up something I love about the slider with a high/low fence...being able to pull it back while ripping to just beyond the middle of the blade...that means exactly zero chance of binding beyond the blade unless the board does a vice clamp bend thing on the riving knife which is unlikely in that short space.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 10-28-2021 at 7:56 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Westminster BC
    Posts
    2,981
    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh Betsch View Post
    Maybe off topic here but I'm wondering if people ever move the rip fence to the right of the blade while ripping? On my slider the rip fence tows out a bit so the wood never drags on the back side of the blade and cause a kick back. The rip fence is never moved to the left of the blade, and I use the wagon with a parallel guide if I need to rip on the left. It seems to me that on a standard table saw either you have to have the fence dead straight or only rip on the tow out side. Or let the blade drag on the back side and take the risk of kickbacks.
    Did you mean to say the left side of the blade? Most, if not all, cabinet saws usually have the fence on the right side of the blade. I only move it to the left when ripping with the blade tilted. My fence is within a few thou of dead straight so I don't worry about the blade dragging on the back side or kickbacks when doing that.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 10-28-2021 at 7:54 PM. Reason: Posting Mistake by Moderator.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Lee, I’d be interested in seeing/knowing more about the “fence mounted feather boards that pull the work against the fence”. Can you show a picture or give a link to it?
    Thanks!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    1,204
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Lee, I’d be interested in seeing/knowing more about the “fence mounted feather boards that pull the work against the fence”. Can you show a picture or give a link to it?
    Thanks!
    Here is one version. I have some of these and they work pretty well.
    David

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N92KeVWuE2c

    board buddies.jpg board buddies 2.jpg

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    I had something like that on the Jet cabinet saw I owned many years ago. It was called "board buddies" or something like that. I forget at this point.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Silicon Valley, CA
    Posts
    989
    Jessem clear-cut guides work fairly well, but aren't particularly cheap:

    E.g., https://www.woodcraft.com/products/j...s-jessem-04301

    Matt

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,591
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Lee, I’d be interested in seeing/knowing more about the “fence mounted feather boards that pull the work against the fence”. Can you show a picture or give a link to it?
    Thanks!
    I have a pair of Grip-Tite magnetic feather boards with some rollers that they sold that bias the stock being ripped toward the fence as you push the stock through the cut. This photo shows one mounted on the table and one mounted on my removable fence cover. There is a steel plate on the fence cover so the magnets work.
    lsfence1.jpg
    Unfortunately, Grip-Tite is no longer in business so your only chance would be to find some of their feather boards on the used tool market.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Hills View Post
    Jessem clear-cut guides work fairly well, but aren't particularly cheap:

    E.g., https://www.woodcraft.com/products/j...s-jessem-04301

    Matt
    +1. Don't use them on every cut, but they work very well.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Ogden, UT
    Posts
    1,659
    Blog Entries
    1
    I wouldn't cut lumber with the board trapped between fence and angled blade (too many internal stress unknowns), but I will cut sheet goods like that (if they are wide enough to feel comfy).

    Those bevel cuts are always a pain, no matter what. The nice thing about 'trapping' the sheet is that the pressure is downward and the cut measurements are easier, the downside is that you are creating a potential safety issue. I also have built a jig that holds the board vertical so that you can cut very shallow angle cuts, but you can also use this jig to simply make process feel safer and hopefully gain accuracy too (you will have to reference the side you are cutting though).

    Another issue arises when trying make a board with miters on opposite edges... the first edge is easy, but referencing the mitered edge against a fence seems to never be easy. Another case for having a sliding saw (or shaper w/ power feeder or CNC) over a cabinet saw.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Thanks all, appreciate the input. Something like the Grizzly product, if it will fit on a contractor saw, would be very helpful for the occasional use it gets. The table is plastic, so magnetic doesn’t work, and frankly the table is so short, traditional screw down feather boards don’t always work either. Something for the Christmas wish list!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •