Table Saw and DC on a 15amp Fuse

[Doug Garson]

Unless the panel is a obsolete make, I always recommend the same manufacturer as the main panel, even if it is the worst panel on the market, Eaton BR*, who I refer to as "Zinsco II", Zinsco is one of the two most reviled names in electrical equipment, the other being FPE.

*The BR line has been under 4 different brands, Bryant, Westinghouse, Cutler-Hammer, & now Eaton.

Why install an inferior panel just to match the main panel? Unless you are going to stock a few spare breakers, I see no advantage and who stocks spare breakers for a home panel?

[Mike King]

But it does meet my spouse's code. And the NEC in incarnations before 2020.

The amusing thing (sort of) is that the justification for requiring GFCI's on 220 circuits in the 2020 code is the proliferation of string trimmers and other such apparatus on extension cords. I've never seen a 220v string trimmer. My suspicion is that the predominate reason for requiring GFCI breakers on 220v circuits is the much higher cost -- like about $100/piece more.

I pulled the permit before finding out about the GFCI requirement and the likely incompatibility with my machinery. Further, were there to be a fire, the insurer would have a tough time supporting a denial of a claim because the circuit lacked GFCI -- GFCI protection has no effect on protecting the circuit from an overload and resulting fire; rather, it protects humans from possible electrocution.

[Doug Garson]

Hope for your sake that you are correct but still don't think publicly posting that you intentionally violated the code by altering the system after inspection is wise. What you did totally defeats the whole purpose of permits and inspections. Forget about a fire, what if someone is electrocuted and you've gone on record as stating you intentionally violated the code? Whether the code requirement makes sense is a separate matter.

[Jim Becker]

Mike can always return to a GFCI breaker for the circuit(s) in the future when his machines are no longer a factor. Being a machine circuit, there may be other mitigations available...I don't know. Someone who knows code intimately would have to look into that; perhaps hard wired with a disconnect rather than a plug/receptacle.

[Rollie Meyers]

You may also wish to pull a permit for this work. I just finished putting a 100 amp sub panel in my shop and was advised that if there was a fire, the insurance company might use the fact of the lack of a permit and inspection to deny coverage.

A downside of pulling a permit is that the new NEC now requires GFCI breakers on 220 circuits in garages. Unfortunately, a GFCI breaker is incompatible with the electronics of my Felder CF741 and the VFD I use to create 3 phase power on my MiniMax edge sander. My solution was to buy the GFCI breakers from Amazon, install them for the inspection, then replace them with non-GFCI breakers after the inspection. Amazon took the GFCI breakers back no problem.

I now have 3 30a 220 circuits and a couple of 20a 120 circuits in my shop. The inspector was very complimentary of my work and the conduit bending I did...

Mike

GFCI's on 240V circuits are only required where the 2020 NEC has been adopted.

[Jim Dwight]

I consider myself a fairly serious hobby woodworker. So far this year I've made a large dresser, mainly out of cherry, and a dining room table and 10 chairs (mainly cherry). I'm 65 years old and have been woodworking for at least 50 of those years. I've had dedicated shops in the last two houses. Neither has had a single 220V circuit. My table saw is a PCS with 1.75hp motor and my DC is the "2hp" HF. I have two 20 amp 120V circuits to my shop + a light circuit and I consider that totally adequate. If I wanted a 220V I would just run it myself. But I do not feel like I need it.

I'm not arguing a subpanel and more powerful circuits are a bad idea, just struggling with the conclusion that they are necessary. They are if you want to use tools with 3-5hp motors but for me they are not needed or wanted.

Copper wire is terribly expensive. Aluminum can cause fires. If I wanted to use aluminum, I think I would hire that done. You have to make absolutely sure of the connections. I would only use aluminum for the main run to the subpanel which is what I think others are talking about.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I believe that aluminum is only permitted for feeders to and between panels, so it should not be an issue for additional circuits.

[derek labian]

I think the answer comes down to your cost sensitivity. If your cost sensitive, run an additional homerun circuit, thats the cheapest solution. If you aren't const sensitive, add a subpanel which will be the most flexible solution.

[Mike Wilkins]

You are going to have problems attempting to run both at the same time. My breaker will trip if the DC is turned on when another machine is running. To get around this I run an extension cord from another circuit to the router table, which is also 115 volt.
As others have stated, a sub panel will cure most ills.