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Thread: Help resetting tilt on old craftsman professional saw.

  1. #1
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    Help resetting tilt on old craftsman professional saw.

    Problem: when I have the blade at 90 degrees the tilt adjustment knob is more than snug on the side of the housing. When I need to tilt the blade I loosen the red knob that holds the handle tight, but it is very difficult to turn the handle, as I loosen the knob more so the handle turns more freely, the "T on the end of the shaft coming out of the side of the base of the saw housing recesses into the black metal plate bolted to the side of the housing. At this point there is no way to use the handle since it can't go over this "T".

    I have taken everything apart, loosened the flanged bushing on the inside of the housing and slid it away from the inside of the housing. With all these parts off if I put the handle on the shaft and rotate it, the tilt will go past 45 & 90 degrees in either direction so it is not a problem with the actual mechanism. It seems to be a problem with how I am putting the black metal plate on the outside, the bushing on the inside etc... Can I leave the black metal plate off the outside? My concern is the angle of the blade will vibrate and change as I use the saw?

    See pics.

    There is a set screw on the end of the gear towards the bushing side of the housing. Is it possible to loosen this set screw and possibly pull the shaft a little farther out of the gear so I have more shaft to work with?

    Can any one advise proper steps to reassemble?

    Any help greatly appreciated.

    Brian

    craftsman 1.jpg craftsman 2.jpg craftsman 3.jpg craftsman 4.jpg
    Brian

  2. #2
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    There is a locking collar on the shaft on the opposite side of of the casting from the worm gear. That collar should have a fiber washer between it and the casting. Lubricate the shaft, and both sides of the casting while you are working there. This collar should be snug against the fiber washer, but easy enough to turn. This holds your worm gear in place at the casting. The black plate should slip over the roll pins and be bolted to the side of the cabinet. Apply a bit of grease to the portion of the black plate visible in you photograph. Slide the handle into place and secure it with the orange locking handle. The locking collar that was against the cabinet should be close to the black plate that is now bolted to the cabinet. Some grease here will make your movement easier. A small amount of grease on the outside of the black plate before you put the handle back on.

    In your table top there are two holes in the table these are your tilt limit adjustments,see page 27 of the manual, for adjusting instructions.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 10-17-2021 at 5:11 PM.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USNR(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    There is a locking collar on the shaft on the opposite side of of the casting from the worm gear. That collar should have a fiber washer between it and the casting. Lubricate the shaft, and both sides of the casting while you are working there. This collar should be snug against the fiber washer, but easy enough to turn. This holds your worm gear in place at the casting. The black plate should slip over the roll pins and be bolted to the side of the cabinet. Apply a bit of grease to the portion of the black plate visible in you photograph. Slide the handle into place and secure it with the orange locking handle. The locking collar that was against the cabinet should be close to the black plate that is now bolted to the cabinet. Some grease here will make your movement easier. A small amount of grease on the outside of the black plate before you put the handle back on.

    In your table top there are two holes in the table these are your tilt limit adjustments,see page 27 of the manual, for adjusting instructions.
    Lee, thanks. I will crawl under it in the morning. What I am calling a flanged collars is actually a shaft collar and a larger OD washer. So the fiber washer is in a fixed position on the shaft? Feels like there is some linear movement to it? thanks brian
    Brian

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    Lee, thanks. I will crawl under it in the morning. What I am calling a flanged collars is actually a shaft collar and a larger OD washer. So the fiber washer is in a fixed position on the shaft? Feels like there is some linear movement to it? thanks brian
    There should be some slight play in the shaft back and forth at that casting, just enough so it spins freely. Once you get it working set a reminder on your phone a year from then to lube those areas again. Some paste wax can be applied to the worm and the gear teeth.
    Lee Schierer
    Captain USNR(Ret)

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    There should be some slight play in the shaft back and forth at that casting, just enough so it spins freely. Once you get it working set a reminder on your phone a year from then to lube those areas again. Some paste wax can be applied to the worm and the gear teeth.

    Lee: Good morning. My hero. After crawling back under it this morning I see the shaft collar and split fiber washer you mentioned on the ass end of the gear. Somehow this had moved, I loosened the set screws in this and re-positioned this so more of the shaft end would stick out of the housing. Lubed it up as you suggested and just like magic it works. I really appreciate the help. brian
    Brian

  6. #6
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    Awesome, don't forget to refresh the lube on those shafts raise/lower and tilt shafts once in a while.

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