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Thread: rust inhibitor

  1. #1
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  2. #2
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    Is this for long term storage? Will the parts come in contact with wood that will receive some type of finish?
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  3. #3
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    wd40 is too thin to last long. It is good for washing off water. then it needs to be replaced with something else. pretty much any oil based product is better and longer lasting.. Chainsaw bar oil is the most easily available oil with tackifiers.
    Bill D

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette View Post
    Is this for long term storage? Will the parts come in contact with wood that will receive some type of finish?

    Jerry, parts are for a Moxon table top vise. I cleaned them with denatured alcohol to remove their rust inhibitor and they suggest I coat them after completing the assemble to prevent rusting. They are in contact with the parts of the vise they mount on. No finish, maybe oil on the non faces of the vise.

    Thanks.
    Brian
    Brian

  5. #5
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    Unless you work in a metal building. I wouldn't put any rust inhibitor on it. Do you keep inhibitor on all you tools and machinery?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Unless you work in a metal building. I wouldn't put any rust inhibitor on it. Do you keep inhibitor on all you tools and machinery?
    I clean oil and wax machines,keep oil on my hand planes
    Brian

  7. #7
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    I think I'd keep a coat of wax on everything. Should help fight rust and keep it turning smoothly.
    Confidence: The feeling you experience before you fully understand the situation

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    I clean oil and wax machines,keep oil on my hand planes
    How do you put wax on top of oil? I'm curious about your shop if you have big rusting issues. If there isn't any way to control humidity, I'd make a insulated box and keep it heated above the dew point and limit all the effort to prevent rust on your hand tools. I live in Peoria. IL so I have the same weather here. I've worked in a concrete warehouse in business and my basement hobby shop. Never had rusting issues in either. You can also wrap your planes in VCI paper to prevent rust.
    Last edited by Richard Coers; 10-17-2021 at 11:56 PM.

  9. #9
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    Boeshield T-9 is what I use. A mix of solvents and wax that dries to the touch.
    Hobbyist

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    How do you put wax on top of oil? I'm curious about your shop if you have big rusting issues. If there isn't any way to control humidity, I'd make a insulated box and keep it heated above the dew point and limit all the effort to prevent rust on your hand tools. I live in Peoria. IL so I have the same weather here. I've worked in a concrete warehouse in business and my basement hobby shop. Never had rusting issues in either. You can also wrap your planes in VCI paper to prevent rust.

    I don't have big rusting issues, just trying to keep ahead of it. I have a dehumidifier, the thread is about some vise parts that are steel and I want to treat them to prevent rust. brian
    Brian

  11. #11
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    How do you put wax on top of oil?
    Paste wax has a lot of solvents in it & can go over oil without much trouble. It doesn't buff out all that well though. It gets a lot of ugly streaks. I've done it quite a few times when I did my cast iron tops.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  12. #12
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    I use paste wax, WD-40, and talcum powder. Not altogether, but for different things. Johnson's paste wax would be good for acme threads. I usually put a thin coat of WD-40 first. Let it sit for a few minutes/days. Wipe off excess and smear on a lot of paste wax. Use wax generously in the threads on your moxon vise. Talc (must be pure, real stuff) is also a good trick. It lubes and keeps moisture off of cast iron. I use it on my flat bed cast iron surfaces. But would probably work on threaded parts too. Apply with a chalk erasure, and don't breath it. Use sparingly. My shop air isn't conditioned and has no insulation. I've been successful for the past 30 years using these products. Machines shine like justice.

    Most important thing is to keep sawdust and wood of any kind off of the surfaces when not actively using the tool. You can also seal handles and such with spray lacquer.

  13. #13
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    Does anyone use Top-cote / Glide-cote? Is it worth $30 a can?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Schuch View Post
    Does anyone use Top-cote / Glide-cote? Is it worth $30 a can?
    Yes!! a coat on all my cast flat surfaces every 4 months or so.The can last a long time.It kind of reminds me of the spray Clark Griswald puts on his sled too. Careful your crosscut sled may fly off the other side of the saw.
    Also I think it can be found for under 20

    All metal hand tools get ballistol. I have a humidity pretty well controlled but in the cold months if a wet/warm day comes my humidifier cant keep up and I will get surface rust if nothing is coated. I also keep most metal stuff in drawers with silica

  15. #15
    Fluid film works pretty good but be prepared for stink, itís not a bad stink but stinkyÖ.i use to use it on my carís undercarriage to protect from winter corrosion and works well for a winter season in VT.

    on my ww tools i use mostly renovation wax as i find it works the best, boeshield works well as well as topcote, one thing i dont like about topcote is the aerosols it produces

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