I'm in the middle of stirring my 1000gm bottle of 6000 that's been sitting on the shelf untouched for about 2 months-
-This is it, along with some of my many 500gm empties, most have DNA in them-
6000.jpg
This is how I mix mine, it's an orbital shaker I got on eBay for like $85-
works well, and I've run it 15+ hours straight MANY times since I've had it-
right now it's running at 140 'orbits' per minute, which sloshes it around nicely.
shaker.jpg
Before I put the bottle on the shaker I shook it myself for about a minute and a half.
It had been shaking at least 15 minutes before I checked it, this is what I found-
6000mud.jpg
-a clump of mud at least an inch and a half in diameter!
--that's when I grabbed the camera to take these pics
Once it's fully liquid, I'll mix it 2 parts DNA to 1 part Cermark, which is usually pretty close for me for brushing--
This stuff takes patience to be sure!
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
Has anyone tried this stuff and if so what were the results?
Liquid Ready Laser Marking Powder-"Brilliance Laser Inks" -BLI101MBLIQ120- Black Laser Ink for Metals Marking with CO2/Fiber/YAG (120 ml, Black)
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Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
Lasercut 5.3
CorelDraw X5
10" Miter Saw with slide
10" Table Saw
8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander
Wow, that's nuts! I cracked up at the blurry photo on the shaker
When you say you mix it to 2 parts DNA to 1 part Cermark do you take some Cermark out of the original container and mix it or do you put about double denatured alcohol, as compared to Cermark, in the original Cermark bottle then mix it up again?
Thanks for all the help. This stuff is expensive and trying to learn the best methods. LOL
Epilog Legend 36EXT 75 watt
Inexperienced rookie user
WHEN REMOVING CERMARK FROM A CAN, because it could be all mud or pretty close to okay-as-is, you'll need to add DNA in little bits until you get a good consistency...
One way to test, with a stainless Yeti or similar-- if you run a brush across the radius, about 2", the edges should run. How fast is the key; if it doesn't run hardly at all or runs slowly and then sets up before it gets very far, probably too thick- If it runs quickly and nearly all the way around, probably too thin. Getting a 2" stroke that takes a few seconds to run halfway around and beyond, you're real close
I should point out about foam brushing, I put submerge the brush, then spin it with my fingers to stir the mix, then raise the brush above the mix, and spin a couple more times so the brush just barely drips- I pull the brush out, point it UP to let the mix get into the brush good, then start brushing. A good mix will flow nicely, and a 1" brush loaded right will cover *about* an 8 x 10" SS plate before needing to reload...
I just remembered the cermarking videos I made a few years ago, this might help. Notice how much surface area I can cover with one brushload...
The first vid is when I used to use a tiny tupperware container for on-the-fly jobs, they gob up with mud way too fast - since then, straight from a Cermark container...
--sorry about the sound, the machines drown me out!
(2nd vid next post)
========================================
ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
2nd cermarking vid-- 4 plates, 9-1/2" x 7-1/2" each--
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ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
FOUR - CO2 lasers
THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
ONE - vinyl cutter
CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle
Just wanted to say thanks for all the suggestions and info! I haven't yet had a need to fire my laser back up and do some Cermark work but when I do I'll be sure to let all know what the problem was and if it was, in fact, that my Cermark wasn't mixed well enough as I think that's likely what the problem was!
Epilog Legend 36EXT 75 watt
Inexperienced rookie user