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Thread: Tablesaw crosscut sleds - what is the simplest/easiest one you've seen or built

  1. #16
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    I see no downside to double runners unless the saw table's slots are not parallel. As long as the runners move smoothly without any slop, there's no downside that I can think of. Only run runner on a sled like I made would likely result in deflection if there's any resistance to the forward movement to the side. But that design might be better for a panel cutting sled...

    That said, I truly miss my slider when it comes to stuff like this and am impatient for being able to get a shop building up and buy another sliding table saw once I have room for it.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 10-19-2021 at 12:29 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Barr View Post
    If you want absolute simplicity then my latest sled took 20 minutes to make and most of that was getting the runner to fit snuggly. I made sure that the right edge went past the blade and was cut by the sled. That way I had a reference edge to square the fence. I made a fall off piece to prevent tear out. The toggle clamp keeps my fingers away from the blade. Its light, it cuts perfectly square and is easy to store.
    Attachment 466490

    I've made a sled with the works like the ones mentioned above. Hold down clamps, T Track, dust collection, replaceable inserts etc etc . It ended up so heavy I tended not to use it.

    Ive been using a sled like Johnny's for years now; my only differences are- 1) I later cut the blade edge back 3/8" back an glued a piece of hardwood to it that I replace from time to time when it no longer cuts zero clearance and 2) I made the fence pivot on a bolt so I can cut angles if needed. I just use a wood screw to hold it in place.
    It's ugly, crude, intended to only be temporary, but it works so well that I never made another.

  3. #18
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    Back in the last century, I made a cross cut/panel cutting jig after watching Norm on the New Yankee Workshop -- my Saturday late afternoon staple. See the first 10 minutes or so of the below linked video. It is very similar Johnny Barr's jig showed in post #13.

    https://www.newyankee.com/product/jigs/

  4. #19
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    I'm in the quick and easy camp. (I've actually become a fan of simply using a straight pc of wood on my miter gauge vs an actual sled.) Use a block and a clamp to set cross cut length. One thing I have thought about is looking for long runners made of metal so that my backstop can overhang the table saw towards the user by a foot or so with no loss in side to side accuracy. One of the very limiting factors in a sled is that you can realistically only slide it so far from the blade before it wobbles too much for any accuracy.

    One quasi trick is to put the fence of your tablesaw up against the side of the sled to keep it straight, but then you are, of course, limiting your cross cut length. If you have a Unisaw fence you can use the narrow fence edge and get a few more inches (?) while doing this.

    As Jim says, all of us just need to own sliding saws : )

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I see no downside to double runners unless the saw table's slots are not parallel. As long as the runners move smoothly without any slop, there's no downside that I can think of. Only run runner on a sled like I made would likely result in deflection if there's any resistance to the forward movement to the side. But that design might be better for a panel cutting sled...

    That said, I truly miss my slider when it comes to stuff like this and am impatient for being able to get a shop building up and buy another sliding table saw once I have room for it.
    Jim, there really is no upside to double runners. A single, well fitted runner has all the precision of any double runner setup without the downside introduced by the expansion/shrinkage of the sled base due to humidity changes. The double runner configuration must have more slop lest the sled jams up.

  6. #21
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    What you say makes sense and I'm going to give that some more thought.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cameron View Post
    Jim, there really is no upside to double runners. A single, well fitted runner has all the precision of any double runner setup without the downside introduced by the expansion/shrinkage of the sled base due to humidity changes. The double runner configuration must have more slop lest the sled jams up.
    i resolved the wood expansion/shrinkage problem by using aluminum. No issues that way, just some expense. I had a cross-cut sled (Norm version) that was serviceable for many years but was not as precise due to set up via framing square. Using the Ng or Tom McLaughlin methods gets a near perfect cut. I use an Incra miter gage for some work as well. Different tools for different tasks.

  8. #23
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    Thin Masonite sheet with a milled-straight 2"x2" or 2"x4" fence, one side of blade only --simple, light, easy.

    Downsides? Limited downward clamping, no holes for accessories, off cuts may occasionally need a piece of Masonite underneath for support, poor blade coverage for safety. Still simple, light, and easy.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Dwayne Watt View Post
    i resolved the wood expansion/shrinkage problem by using aluminum. No issues that way, just some expense. I had a cross-cut sled (Norm version) that was serviceable for many years but was not as precise due to set up via framing square. Using the Ng or Tom McLaughlin methods gets a near perfect cut. I use an Incra miter gage for some work as well. Different tools for different tasks.
    Dwayne, the expansion/shrinkage to which I was referringis that of the sled base, which changes the distance between two runners. Yes, plywood dimensions do change with humidity variation.

  10. #25
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    If you have a large humidity swing (10%) in your shop, plywood could change as much as 0.002" in spacing between the runners.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cameron View Post
    Jim, there really is no upside to double runners. A single, well fitted runner has all the precision of any double runner setup without the downside introduced by the expansion/shrinkage of the sled base due to humidity changes. The double runner configuration must have more slop lest the sled jams up.
    I planed down the width on my uhmw runners to move freely; they aren't perfect and are probably a hair undersized. Each is biased towards the outside of each miter slot. I've been really happy with this setup and haven't seen any practical movement over time, although our area is not prone to crazy humidity swings. My impression had been that the double runners gave better tolerance to any error in the runner setup, but after a quick check of the geometries it is a pretty minor improvement. Maybe helps with torquing? Not sure, but I plan to continue with double runners when I build my next sled. I hang my sled on the wall, so double runners does help it lie flatter, but I wouldn't pivot a design around that.

    To OP--building a dead-square sled is one of the most useful table saw accessories. I'd recommend keeping the size modest on your first one. This will make it much easier to grab and use. If you need to start crosscutting wider panels, I'd recommend making that as a separate sled. I'd keep this first sled dedicated to square cuts; build additional sleds/jigs if a cut will screw up the kerf in the sled (dadoes, bevel cuts, a different kerf blade, etc.)

    When building a table saw sled, you need to think about where the blade is at the end of your cut. In most designs, the blade will be coming through the back fence, which could be a natural place to have your thumb as you push the sled. Figure out how you're going to avoid that situation.

  12. #27
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    And make sure none of the screws go below the bottom of the sled (all heads are sunk; no tips protrude).

  13. #28
    I live in NorCal where it can get pretty wet in the winter and pretty dry in the summer and Fall. Never had an issue using 2 hardwood runners on my sled. I used the NG method and it's always been dependable.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Hills View Post
    I planed down the width on my uhmw runners to move freely; they aren't perfect and are probably a hair undersized. Each is biased towards the outside of each miter slot. I've been really happy with this setup and haven't seen any practical movement over time, although our area is not prone to crazy humidity swings. My impression had been that the double runners gave better tolerance to any error in the runner setup, but after a quick check of the geometries it is a pretty minor improvement. Maybe helps with torquing? Not sure, but I plan to continue with double runners when I build my next sled. I hang my sled on the wall, so double runners does help it lie flatter, but I wouldn't pivot a design around that

    Yes, the double runner setup can compensate for undersized runner width if the spacing of the runners is different than the spacing of the slots (either wider or narrower).

    To OP--building a dead-square sled is one of the most useful table saw accessories. I'd recommend keeping the size modest on your first one. This will make it much easier to grab and use. If you need to start crosscutting wider panels, I'd recommend making that as a separate sled. I'd keep this first sled dedicated to square cuts; build additional sleds/jigs if a cut will screw up the kerf in the sled (dadoes, bevel cuts, a different kerf blade, etc.)

    When building a table saw sled, you need to think about where the blade is at the end of your cut. In most designs, the blade will be coming through the back fence, which could be a natural place to have your thumb as you push the sled. Figure out how you're going to avoid that situation.
    The sweet spot (lowest friction) for two runners is unfortunately halfway between the runners, right where the blade exits. For a single runner the sweet spot is right behind the runner. Oh with a single runner you can place the runner in either slot. I have a ZC kerf for saw blades and a wide slot for bevels and dadoes.

  15. #30
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    SoCal
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    Cjeck out the MicroJig sled designs on YouTube

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