Contributor
I'm contemplating buying a Onefinity Journeyman. It's not in the same league as the machines you are considering, but one of the main attractions to me is the 4' wide X axis. You can process 4 x 8 sheets of plywood on it if desired, or any furniture part I can envision, yet the footprint is substantially smaller than a 4 x 4 unit. They also have a wall mount option for it.
John
[OP]
Contributor
Hi John,Originally Posted by John TenEyck
Are you talking about the X-50? I hadn't seen this before, but how will you process a 4x8 sheet on it? or are you talking about processing a section of a 4x8 at a time?
X-50
Woodworker Cutting Area: 32 1/8"(X) x 32 1/8"(Y) x 5 1/4"(Z)
[OP]
Contributor
I did investigate this further.
AVID suggests you try "other" methods, because the router/spindle is attached in one place, extending its height leads to greater slop and can impact slop. They state the calculation for slop is cubed, so every inch makes a fairly significant difference. This is also the price you pay for aluminum.
I'm also not looking forward to having to assemble an AVID, I watched several videos, its a ton of work, and the unit is only as good as your assembly.
Since I don't have a lathe (no room), it seems like the recoil lathe could actually be perfect for me. Why do you think most people don't use it? I like the idea of getting identical results anyway.
My only real concern at this point with going forward with the Stinger 1 is upgradability. It's not and I know people upgrade these after x years. Having had one for a while, have you seen any need to upgrade to newer whatever??
Contributor
I have the Onefinity Journeyman X50 and you can pass a 4'x8' sheet though it. It has about a 32" cutting capacity in the Y axis.
Let's say I was making a 3'x8' sign, the length really can be anything.
During the design phase, in the software, I would setup some registration holes in the waste portion, say every 16" apart. The software also allows you to break up your design into indiivual tool paths, so in this situation you would probably carve the 8' length in four separate toolpaths, 4 sections 3'x2'.
On my waste board, on the CNC, I would run a tool path that would cut these registration holes so I could insert dowels.
So the first pass on your actual work piece would cut the registration holes and the you insert the dowels, through your work piece, into the wasteboard. You can then carve your first segment, slide the board down to the next section, align with the registration holes, rinse and repeat.
Do a search on YT on CNC Tiling.
Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 12-11-2021 at 9:26 AM.
Moderator
Open ended machines can process longer materials through tiling...you cut a section and index it, move the material and cut the next tile for as many as it takes. This is valid on the Camaster and AVID machines we've discussed with you, too. That's a big advantage of an open ended CNC setup and Vectric's software supports it very nicely.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
To wrap this thread up, after much deliberation and discussion, I decided to buy the Stinger 2 SR-44 w/ the 5HP spindle and the X3 (and all the other bells and whistles I could buy). (I didn't inquire about the ATC, maybe I should have?) My logic was the buy once cry once, and the reality that I didn't want to build a CNC (AVID). I do believe I'll get a lot of use out of this. Thanks to everyone and especially you Jim.
Last edited by derek labian; 12-14-2021 at 6:26 PM.
Moderator
Congrats on your Stinger order! That will be a really nice machine. Be sure you download the prep guide to help you prepare your shop for the machine sometime between now and when it's ready to ship. You'll need electrical (machine and computer) and air (for the counterbalance...doesn't "use" it, but needs the pressure). If you ordered servos, the prep guide may not be correct for the 240v circuit so check with Camaster support to be sure you have what you need. Consider picking up a set of nice casters from CasterCity or your choice of vendor...you need 3/4x10 studs on them. This will make it easier for you to place in your shop and relocate in the future. But don't leave them on the machine when it's in use...it's best "on the floor" and made level. A cheap scissor jack will let you put them on and remove them. Also join Camheads as there is a wealth of information to explore that will answer a lot of your questions before you know you even have them.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
You answered two questions I had at once. 1) what are the thread sizes on the bottom of the unit, and 2) can you run the unit with the casters on? I will indeed pick up a pair of casters. Its a bit hard to know if theres anything else I need to buy ahead of getting the unit, so any other recommendations are appreciated.
I indeed do have an account over there, and I've been reading your posts, just not postingAlso join Camheads as there is a wealth of information to explore that will answer a lot of your questions before you know you even have them.
Moderator
I got an email yesterday that Castercity is having a holiday sale if you want to do an early purchase for your casters. I was very pleased with them when I ordered mine. Here's how I handled things, which was repeated when I recently moved shop, too.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks Jim, I've asked them for a recommendation on a specific caster.I got an email yesterday that Castercity is having a holiday sale if you want to do an early purchase for your casters. I was very pleased with them when I ordered mine. Here's how I handled things, which was repeated when I recently moved shop, too.
Member
Another option is the Harbor Freight trailer jacks with wheels. you can jack the CNC up move it and then lower it in place. They bolt on to the legs many older CNC'ers have done this
[OP]
Contributor
Curious, with Castercity, they gave me two options, the $22 per caster option which is at the load limit (1350lbs), or the $100 option which has load to spare. What did you go with?I got an email yesterday that Castercity is having a holiday sale if you want to do an early purchase for your casters. I was very pleased with them when I ordered mine. Here's how I handled things, which was repeated when I recently moved shop, too.
https://www.castercity.com/stemcaste...total-locking/
https://www.castercity.com/product/s...n-wheel-cmg15/
Moderator
I pulled up my order email confirmation from back in February 2018... here's what I bought:
Ordered: 4 K3APB4BX-ML-TS3/4 $20.87
Swivel Caster, 4" Donut Shape Black Polyolefin Ball Bearing Wheel, Threaded Stem 3/4 -10 x 1-3/4 with Nylon Total Lock Brake
They were more than adequate to support the 900 or so pounds of the Stinger II.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks, those are the same wheel types I linked above. I was a bit worried because they are 300lbs each or 1200lbs for the set, and the unit is ~1300lbs. I ordered them.
Contributor
Using the scissor jack or a floor jack to lift is fine. Please please put a block of wood between the jack and the frame. That's because it's easy for steel on steel to slip. And put the machine on blocks while installing the casters. Congratulations on the new Stinger II. Join Camheads because there is a wealth of knowledge and help available there and it's specific to CAMaster.
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