planning 1/4" veneer to face end grain

[Brian Runau]

Looking for suggestions on how to plane 1/4 veneer to face end grain on some legs for a project. I was thinking of using a previously planned board and after I joint one face and cut the veneer use double sided tape to stick it to this board and then run it through on the cut side. Thanks. Brian

[Mike King]

It's not clear what you are attempting to do, but there is a role for this:

[glenn bradley]

When the amount required calls for it I typically joint a face and edges, resaw the "veneer" at the bandsaw and then plane to near thickness. For a few pieces I would hand plane. You can be done in the time it takes to setup the other method.

[Brian Runau]

When the amount required calls for it I typically joint a face and edges, resaw the "veneer" at the bandsaw and then plane to near thickness. For a few pieces I would hand plane. You can be done in the time it takes to setup the other method.

Glenn:

this is for a dresser leg.

I would also cut on the band saw after joining one edge, but putting a 5/16" piece through my planer, seems too thin so I was thinking stick it to a flat board and run it through the planner. thanks brian

[Brian Runau]

It's not clear what you are attempting to do, but there is a role for this:

Mike this is for a dresser leg so to long for me to do by hand. too lazy. brian

[Kevin Jenness]

If you are going to run end grain through the planer you need to have a solid backstop on your carrier board to prevent breakout. It would be safer to saw close to the final thickness and sand, ideally with a wide belt sander.

[Brian Runau]

If you are going to run end grain through the planer you need to have a solid backstop on your carrier board to prevent breakout. It would be safer to saw close to the final thickness and sand, ideally with a wide belt sander.

kevin, Not end grain through the planer. running 1/4" thick face grain through the planer to cover end grain on a leg glue up. thanks brian

[Jim Becker]

Carrier board as you note and very light cuts...preferably with a thicknesser that has rubber rollers rather than steel with "teeth".

Something to consider for future projects for legs is to use rift sawn material which has all four faces clean without veneering. This material can often be cut from the outside edges of thicker boards and then the center flat sawn section can be resawn for use where appropriate.

[Lee Schierer]

I've needed some thin veneer pieces from time to time. I attach the blank to a carrier board with double sided tape and run it through my Delta lunch box planer, taking light cuts. I recently needed some really thin Red Oak and I planed a piece that ended up 20" long 1/2" wide and 0.018" thick.

[Kevin Jenness]

kevin, Not end grain through the planer. running 1/4" thick face grain through the planer to cover end grain on a leg glue up. thanks brian

I see. I still would use a carrier board with a backstop. Some planers are better than others with thin material. A wide belt is most predictable for this task.

[Joe Jensen]

how about attaching a thicker piece of "veneer" and sawing thin once on the leg substrate?

[Richard Coers]

Not sure if you are aware that 1/4" wood acts like solid wood, and not like veneer. 1/4" will have the same seasonal movement as a piece of 3/4" thick wood. You didn't mention species. Something like hard maple can still blow up in a planer no matter what kind of backer or precautions. Walnut will have a very high survival rate. Look for some really straight grain material for you best chances.

[Brian Runau]

Not sure if you are aware that 1/4" wood acts like solid wood, and not like veneer. 1/4" will have the same seasonal movement as a piece of 3/4" thick wood. You didn't mention species. Something like hard maple can still blow up in a planer no matter what kind of backer or precautions. Walnut will have a very high survival rate. Look for some really straight grain material for you best chances.

Richard I'm working with quarter sawn white oak, I think I should be ok. thanks brian

[Brian Runau]

Carrier board as you note and very light cuts...preferably with a thicknesser that has rubber rollers rather than steel with "teeth".

Something to consider for future projects for legs is to use rift sawn material which has all four faces clean without veneering. This material can often be cut from the outside edges of thicker boards and then the center flat sawn section can be resawn for use where appropriate.

Jim feeling "thick as a brick" Jethro Tull reference. My leg is 1-3/4" finished square. Not sure how I would do this? thanks brian

[Jim Becker]

Jim feeling "thick as a brick" Jethro Tull reference. My leg is 1-3/4" finished square. Not sure how I would do this? thanks brian

'Probably can get what you need for this side of project if you carefully select your 8/4 stock for quality and insure that there is the rift at the edges wide enough for the job.