Repair your Jet AFS-1000B Remote Control Yourself

[James Kirkpatrick]

Two-week old Jet AFS-1000B unit mounted to my 10' garage ceiling and working great, but remote control failed already. Discovered it had fallen from the first step of a ladder in the garage, all of about 12 inches. Jet tech support was on it (these remotes fail often), but they're backordered for 7 weeks. Climbing a ladder every day to turn the beast on/off for two months sounded unappealing. Couldn't find any information on repairing the remote, so disassembled the remote, examined the circuit. Very simple design, just one IC (PT2221) with one 455 KHz ceramic resonator and one 5mm IR LED (940nm wavelength). The ceramic resonator and IR LED are the only two fragile components, so $6 later Amazon dropped a package of 5 IR LEDs on my doorstep.

IR LED 5mm (940nm), also includes 5 IR receiver diodes (not needed): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Taking apart the remote is easy. Two tiny Philips screws at the bottom, and two small snaps just above the battery compartment. I just used the small Philips screwdriver to gently pry the snaps open, and that's it. Two plastic halves come apart, and the circuit board just rests in the front half with no further screws or other attachments. You can just lift the PCB right out of the package. The IR LED is a through-hole mount (2 pins), just de-solder the original and solder in a new IR LED. Done. Works perfectly again.

I'm now searching for some kind of rubberized coating or other protective cover I can put this remote in. The IR LED sticks out of the remote a good 1/8" so it's no wonder it breaks so easily. Poor design, especially for a shop tool. No protection at all for the IR LED. Hope this helps someone!

[james manutes]

Great post . Thanks , I've got that Jet up in my shop w/ a broken remote .

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I purchased a used Jet AFS-1000B that was in great shape but one of the buttons had quit working. I replaced the button on the board and it works well.

I put all the parts in this thread for reference.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....+remote+repair

[Mike Heidrick]

I put my over bench air cleaner on a smart outlet and control it with my phone and via voice with Alexa/echo dot. Same with ceiling over bench dust vac, the solenoid to the over bench air line, the mill's air line from the ceiling, the air to the laser air assist, some led lights under the loft, the cyclone at the CNC router, and to the lights and disco ball the girls while skating in there lol. I also do the same controlling a coil on a relay that controls the coil on a contactor that turns on my 20hp rotary phase converter. So now it has push button start/stop stations around shop (still like that for safety), voice control, and phone control.

[glenn bradley]

Mounted the remote to a wall. It's not like I need to control an ambient air cleaner from multiple locations as I stroll about . . . I always know where it is and it never gets dropped ;-)

[Doug Dawson]

Two-week old Jet AFS-1000B unit mounted to my 10' garage ceiling and working great, but remote control failed already. Discovered it had fallen from the first step of a ladder in the garage, all of about 12 inches. Jet tech support was on it (these remotes fail often), but they're backordered for 7 weeks. Climbing a ladder every day to turn the beast on/off for two months sounded unappealing.

I know this is tangential, but having the cleaner as close to the primary generator of dust as possible, and just above your head (i.e. at the level where you breathe) is optimal. Then you wouldn’t have to climb a ladder to control it manually.

Great post, BTW. Board-level repair skills are always nice to have.

[James Kirkpatrick]

Mounted the remote to a wall. It's not like I need to control an ambient air cleaner from multiple locations as I stroll about . . . I always know where it is and it never gets dropped ;-)

That was my plan... didn't realize I had to treat this particular remote with such kit gloves prior to mounting. Kinda ridiculous to supply such a fragile remote for a shop setting. As far as knowing where the remote is, agree since this is just a 3-car garage. But in larger shops, may be more convenient to have a remote that can travel. Or a suite of remotes maybe, which is my fate since Jet is sending me a replacement.

[James Kirkpatrick]

I know this is tangential, but having the cleaner as close to the primary generator of dust as possible, and just above your head (i.e. at the level where you breathe) is optimal. Then you wouldn’t have to climb a ladder to control it manually.

Great post, BTW. Board-level repair skills are always nice to have.

Thanks Doug for your comment. Hanging the air handler low is not practical in my case as this is a working 3-car garage. Regarding manual control, the air handler panel itself can only control On/Off and Speed, but not the timer. I use the timer each time, which requires the remote.

[James Kirkpatrick]

I put my over bench air cleaner on a smart outlet and control it with my phone and via voice with Alexa/echo dot. Same with ceiling over bench dust vac, the solenoid to the over bench air line, the mill's air line from the ceiling, the air to the laser air assist, some led lights under the loft, the cyclone at the CNC router, and to the lights and disco ball the girls while skating in there lol. I also do the same controlling a coil on a relay that controls the coil on a contactor that turns on my 20hp rotary phase converter. So now it has push button start/stop stations around shop (still like that for safety), voice control, and phone control.

Thanks Mike, good to hear from another automation hound. For this unit, controlling it via its 110VAC cord only allows you to turn the unit on/off, right? Which means when it's powered on, you get low speed by default and no way to change that unless you use the supplied remote or press the panel buttons manually. Please advise if I'm missing something. I prefer to run the unit on high because I had to mount the unit pretty high up in the garage, which I recognize isn't ideal.

[Ben Rivel]

Mounted the remote to a wall. It's not like I need to control an ambient air cleaner from multiple locations as I stroll about . . . I always know where it is and it never gets dropped ;-)

Same here.

[Marc Fenneuff]

Thanks Mike, good to hear from another automation hound. For this unit, controlling it via its 110VAC cord only allows you to turn the unit on/off, right? Which means when it's powered on, you get low speed by default and no way to change that unless you use the supplied remote or press the panel buttons manually.

You are correct, it can't be powered on by a 110V switch, you must use the buttons on the panel, or the remote. And no "Timer" function on the panel as stated above.

My remote started acting flaky last month and would sometimes work for a day or an hour after replacing the batteries. Then I checked the batteries and they were fine... it had been dropped a couple times so I opened it up and checked it over. A magnifying glass turned up a potentially broken solder joint, so I repaired that and it's been fine ever since (knock on wood). A new one was $35+ anywhere I looked.

[Ted Calver]

Thank you for the info. I've had troubles with two Oneida remotes and have resisted buying another. I took apart the old sending unit and found a couple of capacitors that may have been the problem, but never thought about the remote.

[Chris Fairbanks]

I have a jet air filter as well but I suspect this is the same for others knock offs. Mine straight up died and would not turn on. The control board in the actual fan has a capacitor along with the motor. On mine the capacitor on the board failed. It was like a $5 part. I found this link that gave me the info to diagnose and repair it. Hopefully this is of some help for someone at somepoint ��. https://www.fixya.com/support/t33956...nt_run_anymore

[James Kirkpatrick]

I have a jet air filter as well but I suspect this is the same for others knock offs. Mine straight up died and would not turn on. The control board in the actual fan has a capacitor along with the motor. On mine the capacitor on the board failed. It was like a $5 part. I found this link that gave me the info to diagnose and repair it. Hopefully this is of some help for someone at somepoint ��. https://www.fixya.com/support/t33956...nt_run_anymore

Hi Chris, the issue you mention is a well documented and well understood problem, as I discovered in searching for a fix for these remote controls. There's a great YouTube video that may also be of help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dg2dkqVdvUE

The reason I posted this info is because I couldn't find any similar info on fixing the remote control itself. For a $400 metal box with a squirrel cage fan, I'm pretty disappointed in the 1980's remote control and panel tech. Jet knows these are sometimes placed in difficult-to-reach areas, that's the reason they supply a remote in the first place. Just a few simple design improvements would be great for users:

1) RF remote, instead of IR. This comes standard on the similar-size WEN air filter system. Only reason I didn't buy that one is because the Jet unit happened to be in stock and on sale at the local Rockler (10% off).
2) Panel on main unit should support ON/OFF, Speed, AND Timer. No excuse for limiting the timer to remote control only. In researching, discovered this panel has remained unchanged for 15 years or so. Jet is milking this design
3) Remote control should be an impact-resistant design, not a Cracker Jack toy. Ridiculous, especially for a shop tool
4) As someone said, "I just mounted it to the wall"... Well OK, I planned on that too. Where's the remote control wall-mount holder?? Or at least some plastic eyelets on the remote to make it easy to mount?

I hate feeling suckered by the cost of these 20-year old designs with no imagination or updates. End of rant.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

James, I have two of the Jet air cleaner/filters in my shop. I put a piece of stick on Velcro on each on the 2 controllers. One controller resides on the back of the spine of my MM-16. The other resides on the side of a hung wall cabinet at the other end of the shop.