Originally Posted by Robert Hayward
Serious question
What is the problem with the OEM chuck on a $1900 machine?
Contributor
Serious question
What is the problem with the OEM chuck on a $1900 machine?
Contributor
Are you sure it is the chuck and not the spindle? Have you indicated the taper? My dp was out about that much so I pulled the spindle straight with a pipe clamp. I got it within .002 in only 5-6 tries.
B
Contributor
For me the problem was that 1/16" was smallest bit the jaws would clamp. The replacement I bought goes from 5/8" to 1/32". I would have preferred 5/8" to 0" but settled on what I bought for cost reasons. I chuck a pin vise in the drill press chuck for the really tiny bits. Also it scrolled roughly. At times I would have to use the chuck key to move the jaws when there was nothing clamped in the jaws.
Contributor
I know this thread is months old but I purchased a nice Albrecht keyless chuck for my Nova DP and first reaction is a little disappointment. Not with the DP or chuck but the combination of the two. I was all excited to have a keyless chuck on my DP after using a key for many years. The Nova has an electronic depth stop feature to not just stop the drill but also reverse it's direction when it hits your desired depth. Well, this is especially good for bottom of the hole finish using a Forstner bit but after a few trials with a 2" Forstner bit it became lose on a couple tries. There is a feature on the DP to turn auto-reverse off but I like it. May be looking to sell this Albrecht and look for a decent keyed chuck? Anyone else have thoughts or experience with this?
Thanks
Mike
Contributor
+1 for Albrecht. I have one and "keyless" makes life easier than you might imagine.
Contributor
Yeah but then I can’t use the reverse feature on the DP.
Contributor
Mike, I have a nova and actually only use the mechanical stop. The auto reverse felt a little gimmicky and you have to manually stop forward momentum anyway. I'll give it another try though.
Contributor
Bill, I know you posted here a pretty long time ago but if you happen to read this, I'd be real interested in how you actually straightened the spindle with a clamp. My nova has just a little more runout than I'd like but not enough to affect my work so I live with it but every time I pull the handle, it kind of ticks me off.
Contributor
Simple to bend the spindle straight. Best to remove the chuck and indicate off the taper. Not really required for wood. For a first attempt I would chuck a nice round rod in the chuck. A piece of drill rod is fine. raise the quill all the way. Set up a dial indicator so it reads either the front or back of that rod. Rotate the spindle by hand until the largest out of round is facing you
Then a pipe clamp from the outside barrel of the quill to the column. Tighten the clamp until the indicator reads zero, then go maybe 0.005" more. release the clamp and remeasure, repeat as needed. Experience will quickly show how much beyond zero you need to allow for springback.
A HF dial indicator is plenty good enough. A 2x4 clamped to the table makes a mounting base with a wood screw to hold the indicator.
Before you even apply the clamp push on the chuck and see how much the indicator moves. Just to get an idea of the low forces required.
The DI will be useful for tuning up a table saw, planer, jointer etc
Bill D
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-63521.html
way overkill, I would use a woodscrew with a washer instead of that fancy routed recess
Last edited by Bill Dufour; 06-12-2022 at 4:49 PM.
Contributor
Bill, thank you for the info. I have good indicators I can use. Going to give this a whirl in the next week or so. Thanks again.
Member
@Chris Luke and @Rush Paul, I have an impending Nova Viking floor standing drill press shipping to me and am wanting to replace the chuck with a Llambrich JK-13 MT2. I'm interested to know from where you both sourced your own copies of the chuck. I've been looking extensively online and it seems few websites carry that particular model. Thanks for any tips!
Contributor
I found several that carry that model. Just Google your model info. Curious why you want a one piece rather than a chuck with a Jacobs taper and get the Morse taper arbor from them if you are concerned about accuracy? It reduces the cost dramatically. I can see the manufacturing process being much more challenging for the one piece. It appears to be less than half the cost. You are presumably working in wood and the accuracy difference if any would not matter in the end. In the end it's your money and choice though so get what you feel works best for you.
Member
Thanks for your advise here, Ron. My drill press is needing to serve double duty for both wood and metal projects. I favor the one piece for its precision and noticed Chris stated he found the Llambrich chuck for quite an attractive price compared to what I've been seeing them listed for in various places online. I am interested to know if he and or Rush can relay where they made their purchases.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote