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Thread: Paint fill for V-Carved text in solid surface material

  1. #1
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    Paint fill for V-Carved text in solid surface material

    I am making a sign in V-Carve that has text and will be painting the text then sanding to leave the paint color.
    From what I have read on this forum I believe that Exterior Acrylic will be the best choice.

    Will that product be in a rattle can or a brush on?

    Thanks, Robert

    Just realized that I posted in the Laser engraving forum
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  2. #2
    Exterior acrylic paint will work great, and pretty sure you'll need to buy a small can an brush it on.
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  3. #3
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    Your subject line says "fill". Are you trying to fill the letters to be flush with the surface of the material? If so, I would suggest that you don't want to use paint; you need epoxy.

    If you go with paint and don't fill the letters, be aware that not all exterior paints will adhere well to solid surface material, aka "corian". Krylon and Rustoleum both make paints designed to stick to plastics.

    You may also want to consider masking and cutting the letters, then painting them, rather than painting them and having to sand off all the paint on the surface. If by "solid surface material", you do mean something like corian, after sanding it, you will likely need to buff it back up to its original sheen.
    Last edited by Grant Wilkinson; 10-05-2021 at 8:23 AM.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  4. #4
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    I use rattle can paint for this....I usually take the time to mask off the larger portions of the workpiece that will not need paint as it speeds up the sanding off process.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    Check out Ora mask at toolstodays you tube site. It looks to be a cool product. My machine comes in a couple weeks so I cant confirm how well it works but I picked some up to try

  6. #6
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    Yes, using a mask like Ora Mask does cut down on the labor for this kind of thing. If done well, it can even eliminate the surface sanding on the solid surface material if it's at the desired sheen.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    I use Rustoleum acrylic enamel. I buy it in 4 oz. cans at HD.
    Mike Null

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  8. #8
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    My experience with solid surface material is different from others. I have not found any paint that doesn't work with Corian or any other brand of acrylic based solid surface material. Secondly I never use a masking material unless I have to use two colors and the solid surface color is not one that I need. In this case I put on the base color let it dry and then I use vinyl cutter style vinyl for my masking material. It's what works for me, I own a vinyl cuter so there is always material in my shop when I need to mask Corian.

    Eighty grit sandpaper on an ROS sander will remove paint from the surface of Corian fast. If you feel that you must do something to remove the majority of paint from the surface use a razor blade scraper before sanding. Using any type of masking material when you need to paint fill VCarved letters and graphics increases your cost unnecessarily, removing paint from the surface by sanding quickly is one of the major benefits of using solid surface material. For rattle cans I prefer Ace Hardware brand spray paint. It doesn't load up your sanding discs half as bad as other brands. I have used Rustoleum paints in both spray and brush cans, I don't like their products but there are times when they have the best color match for a project.

    I often use Fusion spray paint that is made for plastics on PVC material and other types of plastics, not my first choice for solid surface material because it is more expensive in my area.

    My experience with solid surface signs includes over $1.8 billion in new construction buildings just at Christopher Newport University and 99.9% were made from solid surface material. When mass producing solid surface signs reducing labor costs was the primary goal, when you work alone.

  9. #9
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    I've used Oramask when spray painting (bottom picture) or epoxy filling (top picture) the carved areas.

    It has worked when for me.

    This is an epoxy fill on a walnut veneered tray.




    This was two colors of paint .

  10. #10
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    Appreciate the tips from all who replied, plenty of good info. I have found plenty of info on using the Oramask and will give it a try next time.
    The paint (rattle can) should be fully dry today for the sanding step. I will post a pic when done.

    Thanks, Robert
    Epilog Mini 24-45W, Corel Draw X6, Photoshop CS5, Multi Cam CNC

  11. #11
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    Many people have had good success using contact paper as well. I've used both with acceptable results. It's available locally usually.

  12. #12
    20210921_175015.jpgKeith is the master. Ive not had great luck with any sprayed/brush/rattle can that Ive used. But I've likely not waited long enough for them to dry or Im too fussy with regards to the painted relief texture. I dont care for the rough textured relief for some reason and my customers seem to feel the same.

    Ive switched to using stock or custom mixed seaming adhesive for in-fills that are then decked off and sanded on the CNC but the bulk of this work for me has been either back lit or edge lit material with a dispersion layer on the back None the less the smooth face is what Im speaking to. This doesnt work when your needing a routed look.

    Have a large job running now where were running a bunch of 3Form lit on standoffs. But the smooth face is what Im talking about. These are straight off the machine fly cut with no sanding/polishing
    Sometimes I just want to look at pretty pictures,... Thats when I go to the Turners Forum

  13. #13
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    Mark, those are very sweet. I have so much to learn.
    Did the sanding today with 150 grit, took less then an minute, no doubt the 24 hour drying time helped.
    The diamonds are to done with Gold Leaf.

    Merchid.jpg
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert L Stewart View Post
    Mark, those are very sweet. I have so much to learn.
    Did the sanding today with 150 grit, took less then an minute, no doubt the 24 hour drying time helped.
    The diamonds are to done with Gold Leaf.

    Merchid.jpg

    Looks great.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert L Stewart View Post
    Mark, those are very sweet. I have so much to learn.
    Did the sanding today with 150 grit, took less then an minute, no doubt the 24 hour drying time helped.
    The diamonds are to done with Gold Leaf.

    Merchid.jpg
    Looks like you are doing great. I think you are much more skilled than you give yourself credit for.

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