Bandsaw on mobile base, bolt it down?

[Richard Fellinger]

I am noticing that if I grab the BS and give it some push/pull that there is a bit of rocking. I can't really tell if it is just some give in the mobile base or maybe the BS base is ever so slightly not flat (or both?). Should the machine be bolted to the base or is that usually not necessary?

When bolting to a mobile base what is a good choice for bolts? BS is a 15" model.

Thanks.

[Alex Zeller]

The base on my BS is not flat. I don't have it on a mobile base so it's easy to tell. It's not off by much but it had the same rocking no matter where it was placed in my shop. I ended up putting feet on it so it wouldn't rock. I would bolt it to your mobile base and eliminate any movement between the saw and base. I ended up bolting my PM66 to it's mobile base for the same reason.

[Rick Potter]

My Delta 14" is on a Delta 3 wheel base, with the third wheel being the lift/lock. It rocks a bit when up on the wheel and moving it, but I have not bolted it down.

Don't like this type base very much. Someday.....

[John TenEyck]

I would say figure out where the problem is and fix it. You don't want the machine to rock when using it. My BS sits on a ShopFox base which has a locking screw at each corner. The BS fits flat in the base and nothing rocks even with significant lateral force.

John

[Dan Gaylin]

My bandsaw is on a mobile base. With the base secured (wheels up) it does not rock, but only if the base is properly leveled. My point is that my concrete garage floor is not level, and so depending on where I put the bandsaw, I may need to re-level the base to prevent rocking. It's not an issue with the bandsaw rocking on the base itself. That said, I don't put particularly heavy pieces of wood on my bandsaw (it's a 14" saw). I suspect with a large/heavy enough piece of wood, it might rock on the base too.

[Tom Trees]

It could be a few things Richard
My machine will rock about on the floor, and the floor itself might not be that great either.
I recently removed my machine from the base, and swapped it end for end to try cancel out some twist, unsuccessful for me.
I did sight down the base for twist, couldn't see any.

I have adjustable feet on my base to level it up, and it still rocks, or should I say I can make it wobble a bit by pushing with a finger on the upper cabinet.

I wouldn't bolt it to the base, unless you planned on shimming/blocking up the underside in the corner(s), otherwise you are putting strain on the frame,
which might give you a false reading for plumb.
If you have a long accurate level and it happens to sit well against the frame, then should be simple enough.
If you don't,
I suggest making 4 wee blocks, taped on, or inset fancy magnets, or maybe some fancy laser might be able to do the job?
and getting two plumb lines to level against the column, in both axis, and seeing how you get on.
If you have nothing but string and nuts, then make sure to include those blocks, otherwise you will spend days at it, DAMHIK

You might notice deflection of the column if you try and adjust the base to sit tight on four corners, (should you not be using shims inbetween base and machine)
and if you try and level it after that, it won't be as solid as you might like.

I've not tried to use blocks underneath, or seeing if only one corner might be high, looks like both to me, but I'd love to do something about it.
Problem is I don't have an accurate plinth to be sure of anything.

Try and level it up and see how tolerable it will be, I'll bet it would be a whole lot better when plumb.

I've never tried doing the finger test on anyone else's floor standing machine...
In my case, not noticeable in use, even on camera,
and unless you are giving you're saw an overhaul and you need it plumbed for some reason or another I would just try that.

It will likely be much more stable when plumbed, rather than just synched down without the shims/blocking.

Hope that helps some
Good luck, hope you get it to an acceptable level.
All the best

SAM_4729.jpgSAM_4731.jpg
Tom

[Alex Zeller]

To add to Tom's point about not putting stress on the BS base what I did on my PM66 is use 1/2" bolts. The bolts are bolted to the base with the threads sticking up. I have a nut and then a washer on the threaded part of the bolt that the frame of the saw rests on. I then adjusted the nuts so it don't rock and then put nuts and washers to clamp it down. With the table saw it's pretty easy since you can reach in through the dust cleanout opening to get at the nuts. With the BS feet I put all 4 feet on and then adjust one of the front ones to stop it from rocking. I just tilted the BS back, slid a 2x4 under the base, and then could reach under it to adjust the nut on the foot I was adjusting.

[Bill Dufour]

For my air compressor I stopped by the side of the road and picked up some retreads thrown off of big truck tires. hunks of rubber about 6" wide 1/2. thick and 12 inches long or more. one under each foot for a cushion. Just pick and choose to get equal thickness ones. They are much harder then car tires so stuff does not noticeably sink in
Bill D.

[Steve Jenkins]

My saw rocks a bit depending on where I move it to. I just keep a wooden wedge shaped shim laying on the table and kick under wherever I need it.

[Richard Fellinger]

Thanks for all of the comments and tips and things to try. They got me motivated to do some more testing and figuring. It looks like I don't need to bolt it down right now, but may do so at some point. I have figured out that it is not any uneven parts but due to the geometry of the saw and wheel layout of the base it will rock a bit to the weak point, the front-right side.

Thanks again everyone, and thank you Tom Trees for the taking the time to add your post.


Longer explanation below for anyone that's interested, or just wants closure

The main body of the saw is not centered on its base but is instead closer to the front (like I am sure most other similar ones are) so it already has a tendency to tilt towards the front given the slightest help and opportunity. So that, combined with the way the wheels are attached on the base, is what is allowing the rocking; and when it happens it is all towards the front right of the saw. The wheels on the left side are on the front and back sides of the saw, the wheels on the right side are both on the edge that is perpendicular to the front and back of the saw. Hence no direct support on the front-side right corner of the base. I think this is very similar to the 3 wheeled senario. I found that it doesn't really move at all if it is pushed from the front.

[Richard Fellinger]

My saw rocks a bit depending on where I move it to. I just keep a wooden wedge shaped shim laying on the table and kick under wherever I need it.

And this, as it turns out, will probably be what I end up doing for now. Just a small block/shim to put under the front right side of the base.

[Bill Dufour]

When I was a teen I would have used some old inner tube rubber. I have not seen a tube in decades. Now I use old yoga mats from a yard sale. Not as weather or oil resistant
Bill D

[Tom Trees]

Likely works Bill, but unless you have a hoist or something, it won't be easy to stop it bunching up, and I doubt gluing something to the base would hold up to a heavier machine
unless it was really stiff.
Low profile is wanted in this application of a tippy machine on a base IMO, as that tippyness gets exaggerated the taller it is, well for the corners that are in contact at least.

Tried this with some lino flooring cut into strips, it didn't go so well,
but I used the pipe method for standing the bandsaw onto the base, so some dragging was involved.

Must revisit this though, it sounds like a good idea for the bench grinder at the very least.
Cheers
Tom