jointer planer purchase

[David Gutierrez]

I have been looking at jointer planer combo machines, specifically the Grizzly "G0634X 12" 5 HP Planer / Jointer with V-Helical Cutterhead". They are currently in stock for $3400 + $230 for shipping. Fairly large purchase and wanted to reach out to see what you all had to say about this machine.

I have a small hobby shop with space restriction so separate machines are not an option for me. looked at the jet and minimax also. Minimax and Jet are lot more $$ and I don't think the cost difference is worth it.

Would welcome any thoughts from everyone on the pros and cons of the G0634.

Thanks

[Andy D Jones]

Over/under Jointer-Planers with an angled ways mechanism for jointer depth of cut (DoC) adjustment (as opposed to a parallelogram mechanism) require more room behind the machine for the jointer tables, since when raised (in the planer configuration,) the tables are angled back and away, behind the machine. Therefore you also must remove the jointer fence (and stow it somewhere) when set up as a planer.

That said, the cutter guard behind the jointer fence is segmented/hinged, such that it does not require additional room behind the jointer when the fence is set for widest cut. This would make a lot more sense on a machine that did not have to be set/moved away from a wall to plane (where the two tables tilt up together as a unit).

Personally, I prefer the Euro style jointer guards to the North American "porkchop" style (as provided on this Grizzly machine), but preferences differ widely (and apparently, quite deeply!) on jointer guard style.

There are also two separate dust collection chutes, requiring either two connections to the dust collector, or that the dust collection hose be switched from one to the other chute for jointer vs planer use. Many other manufacturers have a flip-over chute that serves both purposes without having to swap (or double) DC connections.

However, the biggest issue with over-under jointer/planer combos is whether the jointer infeed/outfeed tables reliably maintain their parallel relationship after conversion to planer and back to jointer (multiple times). I would worry about how well the Grizzly's jointer depth of cut adjustment mechanism can maintain that parallelism since it is only working from the rear of the tables. Parallelogram DoC adjustment mechanisms simultaneously adjust and support both the front and rear sides of both tables.

The machine is abundantly-powered (5HP), but it also requires 25A@220VAC. Make sure you have electrical capacity and outlet configuration for this machine. That's a LOT of power for a 12" J/P.

There do not appear to be provisions or options for extension tables, either on jointer tables or planer outfeed. Since the planer table height changes with thickness adjustment, having an extension table on the outfeed that is supported by the table is advantageous over independent support stands/tables.

At last, my advice is free, and worth every penny!

[David Gutierrez]

Over/under Jointer-Planers with an angled ways mechanism for jointer depth of cut (DoC) adjustment (as opposed to a parallelogram mechanism) require more room behind the machine for the jointer tables, since when raised (in the planer configuration,) the tables are angled back and away, behind the machine. Therefore you also must remove the jointer fence (and stow it somewhere) when set up as a planer.
i will need to move the machine to use it so the space required to tilt the tables should not be an issue.

That said, the cutter guard behind the jointer fence is segmented/hinged, such that it does not require additional room behind the jointer when the fence is set for widest cut. This would make a lot more sense on a machine that did not have to be set/moved away from a wall to plane (where the two tables tilt up together as a unit).

Personally, I prefer the Euro style jointer guards to the North American "porkchop" style (as provided on this Grizzly machine), but preferences differ widely (and apparently, quite deeply!) on jointer guard style.
why do you prefer the euro guard? is this pure preference?
There are also two separate dust collection chutes, requiring either two connections to the dust collector, or that the dust collection hose be switched from one to the other chute for jointer vs planer use. Many other manufacturers have a flip-over chute that serves both purposes without having to swap (or double) DC connections.
i am thinking switching over the DC hose is not a deal killer.

However, the biggest issue with over-under jointer/planer combos is whether the jointer infeed/outfeed tables reliably maintain their parallel relationship after conversion to planer and back to jointer (multiple times). I would worry about how well the Grizzly's jointer depth of cut adjustment mechanism can maintain that parallelism since it is only working from the rear of the tables. Parallelogram DoC adjustment mechanisms simultaneously adjust and support both the front and rear sides of both tables.
This would be a deal breaker but i have not read of any issues with this. Does anyone who owns this machine experienced a problem with the tables holding their setting?

The machine is abundantly-powered (5HP), but it also requires 25A@220VAC. Make sure you have electrical capacity and outlet configuration for this machine. That's a LOT of power for a 12" J/P.wo seprate 30 amp circuits
no problem for me have two separate 30 amp circuits.

There do not appear to be provisions or options for extension tables, either on jointer tables or planer outfeed. Since the planer table height changes with thickness adjustment, having an extension table on the outfeed that is supported by the table is advantageous over independent support stands/tables.
minimax has a sweet table extensions but i think they are the only ones. i am not sure the premium cost is worth it.

At last, my advice is free, and worth every penny!

te
i appreciate the input

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

You will not likely find the shorter tables of a J/P combo to be a big factor most of the time, especially if you plan your projects well, including rough cutting down material before milling it. Always work with the shortest material you can, no matter what the tool you are using...easier to handle and less impact from things like "shorter tables". If you do feel you need to extend the tables, it's not that difficult to fab up a solution, either from wood type materials or by using readily available aluminum components.

I also prefer the Euro bridge guards. It's a subjective thing, but I mostly use the jointer for flattening the face of material and it's become a very natural movement for me to push material through the cut while maintaining even touch on top as the leading edge passes over the cutterhead and onto the outfeed table. I always found the porkchops cumbersome for flattening work. They are great for edges, however, because the deflection is minimal. With a wider jointer surface, the porkchop is more massive and I just don't prefer that.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Have you looked at the A3-31? It is very popular, and while not currently in stock and with a high list price, if you can wait, they typically go on sale for not much more than the Grizzly you're looking at.

[Richard Coers]

One thing you will find is you want to pretty much mill all your stock for a project at one time. My Minimax combination machine requires you to drop the planer table down several inches so the dust hood can be flipped over for the jointer tables to return to base. So if you want to thickness some parts and then use the jointer, your setting for the planer table will be lost. I got so tired of cranking that thing up and down so much, I bought a Dewalt bench top planer. That was after I considered making an adapter for a cordless drill that would raise and lower the planer table.

[Warren Lake]

better SCM Model then better in use when raising the table up and down. You are supposed to mill all your stuff at once anyway. If you need to return to a new piece to match put the old piece you want to match in your planer, run it pull it out of gear and turn it up till you hear the knives hitting. If you dont have a feed stop then turn as the old piece is running throiugh and you hear the knives then feed the piece you want to match.

[Richard Coers]

better SCM Model then better in use when raising the table up and down. You are supposed to mill all your stuff at once anyway. If you need to return to a new piece to match put the old piece you want to match in your planer, run it pull it out of gear and turn it up till you hear the knives hitting. If you dont have a feed stop then turn as the old piece is running throiugh and you hear the knives then feed the piece you want to match.

Of course you are SUPPOSED to, but stuff happens. It's my experience that if you hear the knives hitting that existing board, the new board won't be the same thickness as the rest.

[Andy D Jones]

You will not likely find the shorter tables of a J/P combo to be a big factor most of the time, especially if you plan your projects well, including rough cutting down material before milling it. Always work with the shortest material you can, no matter what the tool you are using...easier to handle and less impact from things like "shorter tables". If you do feel you need to extend the tables, it's not that difficult to fab up a solution, either from wood type materials or by using readily available aluminum components.

I also prefer the Euro bridge guards. It's a subjective thing, but I mostly use the jointer for flattening the face of material and it's become a very natural movement for me to push material through the cut while maintaining even touch on top as the leading edge passes over the cutterhead and onto the outfeed table. I always found the porkchops cumbersome for flattening work. They are great for edges, however, because the deflection is minimal. With a wider jointer surface, the porkchop is more massive and I just don't prefer that.

Extension tables for the jointer infeed/outfeed are pretty simple to make, since those tables do not change height constantly between passes.

The planer table raises and lowers with the planing thickness, so matching its height with a shop made table is more difficult and has to be adjusted much more often. And due to the shortness of the planer table, extending it is more often desired than extending the jointer tables.

I just prefer using the Euro guards, especially when flattening the first face. when properly adjusted, it prevents me from riding my hand on top of the stock, while over the cutter head. The preferences seem to be profound (there was a long thread extolling the virtues and vices of the two styles a while back).

I can vouch for the quality of the Felder Hammer A3-41 (16" JP); I really enjoy using it. The A3 series are designed/built in Europe, rather than China.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[David Gutierrez]

i will keep on the look out for the sale. looks like great machine.
Thanks

[David Gutierrez]

ithink this is one of the things I need to accept since i do not hve the space for separate machines. My shop i in my basement and i think the noise of the bench top planer would be an issue with my better half.

[David Gutierrez]

thanks to everyone I think i am going to wait and see if I can catch a sale on the A31. I was trying to talk myself into the grizz machine partly because it is currently in stock and grizzley sent me a 5% offer. When I talk myself into comprises based on saving $$ I often regret it.

Thanks eveyone